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Junkman's F.A.Q's! (Frequently Asked Questions)


Junkman2008

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Hey boys and girls, I am starting this thread to address all of the common questions that I get on what seems like a daily basis. This thread will contain a ton of information, and this first post will continue to grow as I continually add videos and write-up on things that I often get asked. Thus, you want to subscribe to it as the addition of information will grow as quick as I can knock out the videos and write-ups.

 

That's the theme of this thread so here we go!

 

 

Junkman's Alternative to 2-Bucket Washing - The Video!

 

The title says it all. This is how I wash my car when I don't have time to wash it properly.

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uO3gu65UYTA&feature=channel_video_title]Alternative to 2-Bucket Washing - YouTube[/ame]

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

How to Perfect "Moving" the PC-7424XP and the Flex 3401VRG at the Proper Tempo

 

Okay boys and girls, this video series is a first, and unlike anything that you will see anywhere else on the web. This video series concentrates on my technique of working both polishers, with the sole concentration being on how fast I move them across the paint. Again, this is strictly my technique as I do it when using any of these polishers to work on paint. Other folks may do it differently and that is fine but this is the way I do it.

 

So if you are using the PC and my technique which consist of:

 

  • 9-14lbs of pressure including the weight of the polisher
  • Speed setting of 5
  • 3 pea-sized drops of polish. With the Flex, I use a thin bead of polish that circles the pad. The Flex requires more polish than the PC.

 

 

These videos will address how fast you should move the polisher. The way that I figured out how to get this across will probably crack you up but hey, we will all be on the same page if you are using my technique. Once you get through the videos, you will probably want to download this file so that you can get your practice on. :thumbsup:

 

Here are the videos!

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=taR6JP2yNfI&feature=channel_video_title]Polisher Speed of Movement - Part 1 - YouTube[/ame]

 

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ou4slueGVU&feature=channel_video_title]Polisher Speed of Movement - Part 2 - YouTube[/ame]

 

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UTmG-CAj7VE&feature=channel_video_title]Polisher Speed of Movement - Part 3 - YouTube[/ame]

 

 

 

 

How to Buff on the Side of Your Vehicle

 

 

Okay boys and girls, this video series addresses that question I often get about buffing on the side of the car. I detail this and reinforce my technique for those who are mixing it up with other techniques. I will continue to update this thread with more information and videos as the questions come in.

 

Here are the videos!

 

 

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3yHQME7dUDU&feature=channel_video_title]Buffing the Side of Your Car - Part 1 - YouTube[/ame]

 

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7rnTEIKcbrQ&feature=channel_video_title]Buffing the Side of Your Car - Part 2 - YouTube[/ame]

 

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=32v_4I-zDyY&feature=channel_video_title]Buffing the Side of Your Car - Part 3 - YouTube[/ame]

 

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XK44yWBdERc&feature=channel_video_title]Buffing the Side of Your Car - Part 4 - YouTube[/ame]

 

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=feAKE9Up2t0&feature=channel_video_title]Buffing the Side of Your Car - Part 5 - YouTube[/ame]

 

 

 

That's all for now. :cheers:

 

The Junkman

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I've finally started polishing! :pc:

 

Question:

 

I'm seeing some pad shavings come off as I'm polishing. Like tiny pieces of the pad coming off. When using the orange pad, it's like a little bit of orange dust is left behind. However, it's not like whole pieces of the pad are coming off or anything. Is that normal? Am I just seeing them easier because they're standing out against my black paint? I know the pads wear down over time, just wasn't sure if you could see it happen or not in the form of this "pad dust" left behind.

 

If they're not supposed to do that visibly, is there maybe something I'm doing wrong? Or maybe bad pads (I doubt it)?

 

The pads don't wear down over time unless you use a real aggressive and hard pressing technique. What you see is not the pad coming apart, it is polish. You are using way too much and it is flaking off the pad. Who's technique are you using?

 

Nate, are you sure it's not just dry polish "dusting"? Like, can you actually see the pad degrading around the edges? If not, I would bet it's just dry polish, in which case you need only to use a bit more DS.

 

...and LESS polish.

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Junkman you got me on the Alternative to 2 bucket method. Ever tried to dry your Blue Baby using this method after washing? Might try on the Mean'o Camino first, just to test the method!

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Junkman you got me on the Alternative to 2 bucket method. Ever tried to dry your Blue Baby using this method after washing? Might try on the Mean'o Camino first, just to test the method!

 

lol! Yea, I'm going to get a lot of people with this one! :D

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First of all, welcome to the forum. :)

 

As for your question, the ideal answer is once. In reality, the answer totally depends on what you do to the paint when you are physically touching it. The paint can only be damaged when it is touched. Thus, if you never touch it, it will only need to be fixed once. Since never touching it is not realistic, the answer totally depends on how you touch it. That's the part of the equation that people totally miss. They are worried about how often they can fix their paint when my mindset is how can I touch the paint without doing anything to damage it. That's two, totally different ways to look at it.

 

Here's something else to consider. If you are starting with some really jacked up paint, using the equipment and techniques that I show in my videos is going to take a bit of work. It will not be fast by any means but it will be the safest, most non-destructive way to fix your paint. There are much faster ways to do it (rotary polisher for example), but NONE of those ways are safe for a novice. If your paint is not that bad to start with, then you will not have that much work to do. Where you stop totally depends on your level of acceptance. Some folks will accept some level of damage remaining in their paint and other will want their paint to be perfect.

 

Now here's the key to everything that you will learn. You should never have to completely repair your paint more than ONCE in the life of the car. How is that you ask? Because once you completely repair the paint, you NEVER do the things that destroyed the paint in the first place again! That's the whole secret to paint repair! Fix it once and PROPERLY maintain it from that point forward. Now in reality, you will pick up a stray scratch here and there but these will be a cake walk to remove. They will be nothing compared to what you will have to remove to start with.

 

 

:bow:This is becoming quite apparent to me. It's taking a LONG time to get my car corrected, BUT panel by panel, it's coming along nicely.

Once I'm done, it won't take nearly as long to maintain given proper washing procedure and staying away from car washes. Awww even those bikini ones? :)

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It has come to the attention of the Moderators that questions posed to this thread were not being answered in a timely manner. In an effort to maintain our high standards of being a supportive community, this thread is now closed. There is not point in keeping it open if there isn't help being distributed to asked questions.

 

Thank You.

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..........

How to Perfect "Moving" the PC-7424XP and the Flex 3401VRG at the Proper Tempo

 

Okay boys and girls, this video series is a first, and unlike anything that you will see anywhere else on the web. This video series concentrates on my technique of working both polishers, with the sole concentration being on how fast I move them across the paint. Again, this is strictly my technique as I do it when using any of these polishers to work on paint. Other folks may do it differently and that is fine but this is the way I do it.

 

So if you are using the PC and my technique which consist of:

 

  • 9-14lbs of pressure including the weight of the polisher
  • Speed setting of 5
  • 3 pea-sized drops of polish. With the Flex, I use a thin bead of polish that circles the pad. The Flex requires more polish than the PC.

 

These videos will address how fast you should move the polisher. The way that I figured out how to get this across will probably crack you up but hey, we will all be on the same page if you are using my technique. Once you get through the videos, you will probably want to download this file so that you can get your practice on. :thumbsup:

 

Here are the videos!

...........

The Junkman

 

For the engineering types out there, Copacabana, the song Junkman uses for the tempo, is 120 beats/min (2 beats / sec) or VERY close to it.

 

For reference:

Working Area: 18" x 18" box

PC Pace: 16 beats per single straight pass (8 seconds)

Flex Pace: 8 beats per single straight pass (4 seconds)

Makita Pace: 4 beats per single straight pass (2 seconds)

(Due to the additional complexities of the Makita, I'll leave it out)

 

It took 16 overlapping straight passes to complete the box: 4 horizontal, the 4 vertical, then 4 horizontal, then 4 vertical.

Thus an estimated time to 'complete' the 18" x 18" box would be:

PC Time in Working Area : 2 minutes, 8 seconds

Flex Time in Working Area : 1 minutes, 4 seconds

 

The same thing can be applied for a 24" x 24" box, Junkman's other mentioned working area. A single straight pass is 1.33x longer (24"/18"). Using the same overlap, it would be 5-6 straight passes x 4 to complete the working area. Using 6: 6 horizontal, 6 vertical, 6 horizontal, 6 vertical for 24 total straight passes that are 1.33x longer.

Thus an estimated time to 'complete' the 24" x 24" box would be:

PC Time in Working Area : 4 minutes, 16 seconds

Flex Time in Working Area : 2 minutes, 8 seconds

Thus it takes about twice the time compared to the 18x18 working area.

 

Obviously other factors come into play like temperature, humidity, pressure and observation to assure the polish isn't OVERworked. But this gives some rough total times for a given working area.

 

 

 

Just and engineer doing the math.

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Are you planning on making some new video's using the Flex. I have a pc and want to graduate to a flex soon, but i want to see how you use it first. Once i get the flex, do i need to keep the pc? What would be the reason for keeping the pc once i buy the flex. Thanks,

Mico M

 

I have made some videos using the Flex. Why do you want to have both? Read this entire thread. I explain that in clear detail.

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The kit came! It looks like Adam's was nice enough to attach the backing plate to the PC for me. Is it pretty much ready to use as is? The video that you posted on YouTube on prepping the PC is private so I can't watch it.

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I think you're right. I looked at the pad. It doesn't seem to have degraded. But there's a little bit of caked polish on the very edges if the pad. I'll use less.

 

I'm using the junkman technique! Is there any other?? Haha.

 

I started out by priming the pad with the 4 pea sized dots and a shot of detail spray. Maybe they were too large. I'll use less now!

 

Gotta love technology. Asking questions in real time with a smart phone, and getting almost instant responses. You guys rock. Back to work! Stay tuned.

 

Ps. I can already see results!

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I've finally started polishing! :pc:

 

Question:

 

I'm seeing some pad shavings come off as I'm polishing. Like tiny pieces of the pad coming off. When using the orange pad, it's like a little bit of orange dust is left behind. However, it's not like whole pieces of the pad are coming off or anything. Is that normal? Am I just seeing them easier because they're standing out against my black paint? I know the pads wear down over time, just wasn't sure if you could see it happen or not in the form of this "pad dust" left behind.

 

If they're not supposed to do that visibly, is there maybe something I'm doing wrong? Or maybe bad pads (I doubt it)?

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What was M.S.W is now MSS. It was just renamed so you will get the new stuff. You apply Americana by hand, not with the black pad. If you get Americana, it will come with the applicator. As for which one "out performs" the other, MSS last longer than Americana. That's not my opinion, that's the truth. Nothing outlast a sealant. It is the longest lasting type of wax.

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:bow:This is becoming quite apparent to me. It's taking a LONG time to get my car corrected, BUT panel by panel, it's coming along nicely.

Once I'm done, it won't take nearly as long to maintain given proper washing procedure and staying away from car washes. Awww even those bikini ones? :)

 

Those are the worse ones!

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Hey Junkman, first time poster here, so not sure if this has been posted before.

 

I've been watching some of your videos and am going to be getting my first car soon. I was wondering how often you would recommend washing, claying, polishing, and waxing.

 

P.S. To add a bit of context to your suggestion, I'm not looking for absolute perfection, just to keep the car looking fresh.

 

Thanks!

 

To give him a fighting chance you might want to give him a few details like where you live, where the vehicle would be kept and what you will be using the vehicle for :2thumbs:

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First off, thank YOU for your service! :patriot:

 

I remember Korea well. I did my time in Pohang and Busan. I will never forget those times. :thumbsup:

 

...Im assuming i should invest in some of the fine polish for maybe 5-6 month polish touch ups, and some machine wax?

 

You should invest in what you see me use, or substitute whatever the replacement product is at the time of your purchase. That way, you can follow along with my videos and you should end up with the same results that you see me achieve.

 

ONE question, i tried lookin for... WHAT do we do when a bird decides to make a mess on your paint? and your at a SHOW, or out where theres no way to WASH the car, cause i KNOW you will see WASH IT... but what if you cant? We talkin WET and DRY. Any sug?

 

thanks again junkman, amazing videos, and awesome detail/wash tips!

 

Keep some Waterless Wash with you at all times. You may even want to transfer it to a very stout spray bottle just in case the car gets really hot as the bottles don't fair well in 100 degree trunks. When you get hit by a bird bomb, saturate the area with WW and check it with your fingers to make sure that the bird bomb has become totally liquid. Once it has, remove it with a scooping action, NOT a back and forth action. If the entire car needs washing and there is no place to wash the car, then you need to watch my alternative to 2-bucket washing video because that's exactly what I do.

 

Welcome to the forum! :)

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Thanks Flattop, JM has answered many on Camaro5. He mentioned his corner in a vid so I was just looking for it..

 

Or ask us! Many of us have been doing this long enough to have most of your answers. What we don't know, Dylan, Adam and Mook and the rest of the Adams gang can help with.

 

Chris

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