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White paint


KBsToy

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Morning ,

I just bought a 2010 Camaro RS/SS 1800 milies on it. I would really like something to bring out the white paint on this car. I have been lurking and read about the clay bar and other process`s.

 

Again THANKS for ur help.

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Congrats on the car! Clay bar will definitely help to pick up any contaminants that might be hampering the clarity and definition of the white paint but for the most effective way to bring out the true color polishing may be required depending on the overall condition of the paint. One of Adam's polishing kits would be a great way to start in bringing out the best in your Camaro.

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White is a tough cookie because its just harder to see the imperfections. But micro-swirls. etc still cut down on the shine, same as a black car.

 

For your purposes, inspect the paint carefully. Even with such low miles, if a dealer touched it, it will have swirled paint and a full correction will be necessary. (wash, clay, polish, wax)

 

If you are ok with how the surface looks, then baggie test it. Claying the surface will pull all the bonded contaminants off, followed by glaze and wax. That will be really improve the appearance, even with white.

 

Check out the videos for deeper explanation of all the processes. :2thumbs:

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I just did my daughters car. white G-6. I did not get all the swirls out,, did the clay and detail spray,,, Swirl and Haze remover fol by the fine machine polish,, the super sealant. then a coat of americana. Although it was my first time with the PC, then car was alot brighter and white was really nice. Could only imagine if I got all the swirls out.

 

Will make a big difference.

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Welcome to the forums Ken!

 

White has a different set of characteristics and challenges associated with it. A lot of people complain about black being difficult, well... white isn't exactly a cake walk either b/c it takes much more to keep it clean and bring out gloss.

 

Whites tend to 'glow' more than show depth... just a characteristic of the color.

 

To maximize yours claying is definitely a good place to start as small particles, rail dust, and other contamination show up more on white than anything else.

 

Once its clayed the typical paint correction using polish is next, and I'd recommend going with a sealant as your first choice as the 'depth' associated with waxes won't be there anyways. The more reflective qualities of a synthetic sealant will play up the strengths of your white paint IMO.

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Welcome to the forums Ken!

 

White has a different set of characteristics and challenges associated with it. A lot of people complain about black being difficult, well... white isn't exactly a cake walk either b/c it takes much more to keep it clean and bring out gloss.

 

Whites tend to 'glow' more than show depth... just a characteristic of the color.

 

To maximize yours claying is definitely a good place to start as small particles, rail dust, and other contamination show up more on white than anything else.

 

Once its clayed the typical paint correction using polish is next, and I'd recommend going with a sealant as your first choice as the 'depth' associated with waxes won't be there anyways. The more reflective qualities of a synthetic sealant will play up the strengths of your white paint IMO.

 

Dylan you mentioned rail dust, my mom has a white crv and on her drivers side door there are tiny little spots that look like rust spots. I haven't tried to wash or clay it, but I was just wondering is thats what you mean by rail dust

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Rail dust is a term to describe small metallic (typically iron) particles that embed themselves to the paint and begin to oxidize when exposed to moisture, producing a rust 'spec'.

 

Its called rail dust as thats a common source. As cars are shipped by rail the train rolling along the tracks (metal wheels on metal tracks) kick up small metal particles. Other sources include brake dust (carbon METALLIC brakes)

 

All cars have it, just that its noticeable on white more than other colors. Its extremely common on almost every single new car b/c at some point almost every car is on a train or on the back of a truck on its way to the dealer.

 

Clay will almost always remove it, if it sits for a really long time or is really severe there are iron removal chemicals out there, but its safe to assume that if theres rail dust theres other stuff to remove so might as well take care of both issues and just clay IMO.

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So the little spots im seeing that look like rust is most likely break dust? I noticed them sunday after my old man brought the car to the coin op.

 

No... its potentially the metallic particles that can potentially be found in brake dust. Could also just be picked up metal particles from the road, near a railroad track, a manufacturing facility... theres no one specific 1 source... but it is small metal particles.

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No... its potentially the metallic particles that can potentially be found in brake dust. Could also just be picked up metal particles from the road, near a railroad track, a manufacturing facility... theres no one specific 1 source... but it is small metal particles.

 

Sorry to thread jack, also sorry to use other companies products in my question but i have been wondering this for a while. I have a friend that details and uses Aquartz Iron Cut, that a similar idea of showing the contamination of metallic elements? cause i wouldnt think that could replace a good clay barring. Makes sense it would cut down on it, almost just seems like just a product to have to make people buy something more.

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Sorry to thread jack, also sorry to use other companies products in my question but i have been wondering this for a while. I have a friend that details and uses Aquartz Iron Cut, that a similar idea of showing the contamination of metallic elements? cause i wouldnt think that could replace a good clay barring. Makes sense it would cut down on it, almost just seems like just a product to have to make people buy something more.

 

From what I have read on other forums Iron Cut is supposed to help dissolve those iron particles which then helps break them away from the surface when wiping the residual it leaves after its had time to dwell, as they are normally stubborn or not removable without the assistance of chemicals, but from those same posts I also read that people STILL end up claying the surface.

 

I guess its just a matter of preference.

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From what I have read on other forums Iron Cut is supposed to help dissolve those iron particles which then helps break them away from the surface when wiping the residual it leaves after its had time to dwell, as they are normally stubborn or not removable without the assistance of chemicals, but from those same posts I also read that people STILL end up claying the surface.

 

I guess its just a matter of preference.

 

Ok gotcha, thats what I figured, so it just cuts back down on claying time. Sounds like something that could be useful, have to read more about it though. Im pretty happy with my process now, if i do it right I dont add very much swirls in the wash process through foaming and everything else.

 

 

Back to the original post though haha.. post some pics of that white camaro :D tint the windows and get it stormtroopin :D

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Sorry to thread jack, also sorry to use other companies products in my question but i have been wondering this for a while. I have a friend that details and uses Aquartz Iron Cut, that a similar idea of showing the contamination of metallic elements? cause i wouldnt think that could replace a good clay barring. Makes sense it would cut down on it, almost just seems like just a product to have to make people buy something more.

 

Thats kind of been my thought on them... a product like that only targets metallics... so any other bonded stuff, which there will most certainly be, still needs to be clayed to be removed.

 

So if the clay will remove both, why bother with the extra step?

 

That being said there are cases of EXTREME iron contamination that it makes sense for, but its hard to justify as a regular use product unless you're just looking to be entertained by the color change LOL

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Welcome Ken. I've attached a pic of what is possible with the Summit White Camaros. It is not perfect by any means, but it is possible and quite easy using Adam's products. You just can't go wrong using Adam's detailing products.

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Welcome Ken. I've attached a pic of what is possible with the Summit White Camaros. It is not perfect by any means, but it is possible and quite easy using Adam's products. You just can't go wrong using Adam's detailing products.

 

Going to clinic this saturday @ Grabicks will look this up....THANKS !!!!!

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Going to clinic this saturday @ Grabicks will look this up....THANKS !!!!!

 

Say hello to Jason for me please. They're a great bunch of people at GPC and they sell Adam's products..they have a great performance shop too. :thumbsup:

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THANks for the Hello`s and help with my White paint question. Lots of knowledge here. :patriot:

 

OK, so you gotta explain that avatar. Are you/were you on the Air Force One Crew? I'm highly impressed because as a retired Air Force person, I know that is definitely one extremely hard special assignment to get picked for. Well done!

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