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White paint


KBsToy

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Morning ,

I just bought a 2010 Camaro RS/SS 1800 milies on it. I would really like something to bring out the white paint on this car. I have been lurking and read about the clay bar and other process`s.

 

Again THANKS for ur help.

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Welcome to the forums Ken!

 

White has a different set of characteristics and challenges associated with it. A lot of people complain about black being difficult, well... white isn't exactly a cake walk either b/c it takes much more to keep it clean and bring out gloss.

 

Whites tend to 'glow' more than show depth... just a characteristic of the color.

 

To maximize yours claying is definitely a good place to start as small particles, rail dust, and other contamination show up more on white than anything else.

 

Once its clayed the typical paint correction using polish is next, and I'd recommend going with a sealant as your first choice as the 'depth' associated with waxes won't be there anyways. The more reflective qualities of a synthetic sealant will play up the strengths of your white paint IMO.

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Welcome to the forums Ken!

 

White has a different set of characteristics and challenges associated with it. A lot of people complain about black being difficult, well... white isn't exactly a cake walk either b/c it takes much more to keep it clean and bring out gloss.

 

Whites tend to 'glow' more than show depth... just a characteristic of the color.

 

To maximize yours claying is definitely a good place to start as small particles, rail dust, and other contamination show up more on white than anything else.

 

Once its clayed the typical paint correction using polish is next, and I'd recommend going with a sealant as your first choice as the 'depth' associated with waxes won't be there anyways. The more reflective qualities of a synthetic sealant will play up the strengths of your white paint IMO.

 

Dylan you mentioned rail dust, my mom has a white crv and on her drivers side door there are tiny little spots that look like rust spots. I haven't tried to wash or clay it, but I was just wondering is thats what you mean by rail dust

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Welcome Ken. I've attached a pic of what is possible with the Summit White Camaros. It is not perfect by any means, but it is possible and quite easy using Adam's products. You just can't go wrong using Adam's detailing products.

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So the little spots im seeing that look like rust is most likely break dust? I noticed them sunday after my old man brought the car to the coin op.

 

No... its potentially the metallic particles that can potentially be found in brake dust. Could also just be picked up metal particles from the road, near a railroad track, a manufacturing facility... theres no one specific 1 source... but it is small metal particles.

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No... its potentially the metallic particles that can potentially be found in brake dust. Could also just be picked up metal particles from the road, near a railroad track, a manufacturing facility... theres no one specific 1 source... but it is small metal particles.

 

Sorry to thread jack, also sorry to use other companies products in my question but i have been wondering this for a while. I have a friend that details and uses Aquartz Iron Cut, that a similar idea of showing the contamination of metallic elements? cause i wouldnt think that could replace a good clay barring. Makes sense it would cut down on it, almost just seems like just a product to have to make people buy something more.

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Sorry to thread jack, also sorry to use other companies products in my question but i have been wondering this for a while. I have a friend that details and uses Aquartz Iron Cut, that a similar idea of showing the contamination of metallic elements? cause i wouldnt think that could replace a good clay barring. Makes sense it would cut down on it, almost just seems like just a product to have to make people buy something more.

 

From what I have read on other forums Iron Cut is supposed to help dissolve those iron particles which then helps break them away from the surface when wiping the residual it leaves after its had time to dwell, as they are normally stubborn or not removable without the assistance of chemicals, but from those same posts I also read that people STILL end up claying the surface.

 

I guess its just a matter of preference.

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From what I have read on other forums Iron Cut is supposed to help dissolve those iron particles which then helps break them away from the surface when wiping the residual it leaves after its had time to dwell, as they are normally stubborn or not removable without the assistance of chemicals, but from those same posts I also read that people STILL end up claying the surface.

 

I guess its just a matter of preference.

 

Ok gotcha, thats what I figured, so it just cuts back down on claying time. Sounds like something that could be useful, have to read more about it though. Im pretty happy with my process now, if i do it right I dont add very much swirls in the wash process through foaming and everything else.

 

 

Back to the original post though haha.. post some pics of that white camaro :D tint the windows and get it stormtroopin :D

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Sorry to thread jack, also sorry to use other companies products in my question but i have been wondering this for a while. I have a friend that details and uses Aquartz Iron Cut, that a similar idea of showing the contamination of metallic elements? cause i wouldnt think that could replace a good clay barring. Makes sense it would cut down on it, almost just seems like just a product to have to make people buy something more.

 

Thats kind of been my thought on them... a product like that only targets metallics... so any other bonded stuff, which there will most certainly be, still needs to be clayed to be removed.

 

So if the clay will remove both, why bother with the extra step?

 

That being said there are cases of EXTREME iron contamination that it makes sense for, but its hard to justify as a regular use product unless you're just looking to be entertained by the color change LOL

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