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Strip wash? APC & CS


Carolinaboy

Question

When doing a strip wash I've seen more and more people commented that they have used APC & Car Shampoo in there foam guns to strip the wax, before claying.

 

I have done dawn & IPA wipedown. Is APC just as effective when used with CS?

 

Do you still do a IPA wipedown? I'm planning on doing my full detail tomorrow & Tuesday.

 

Thanks

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Gotcha, worried about letting the CWS/APC sit on the finish at all? I.e.- not rinsing till finished washing truck like usual

 

On big Vehicles and your doing a shampoo/APC mix, what I do is split the vehicle into sections. For instance, Wash the roof, hood and trunk then rinse. Next do one side, then the next....It will definitly take you a bit longer, but better safe than sorry right?!:2thumbs:

Edited by BlueGenCoupe
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On big Vehicles and your doing a shampoo/APC mix, what I do is split the vehicle into sections. For instance, Wash the room, hood and trunk then rinse. Next do one side, then the next....It will definitly take you a bit longer, but better safe than sorry right?!:2thumbs:

 

Gotcha kind of what I was thinking

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While I agree that APC works at removing wax and is great for Adams business, I'm not sure why you'd want to use something as costly and useful in other areas as APC.

 

I save my APC for things like pad cleaning or grease and oil removal. I use cheaper products for wax removal.

 

Chris

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Is there an official recommendation on the ratio of APC to CS we should be using as a strip wash?

 

Not really... I usually add about 2oz APC to the mix with 4oz of car wash in a foam gun. You can go up or down depending on how potent a mixture you need. It doesn't take much.

 

While I agree that APC works at removing wax and is great for Adams business, I'm not sure why you'd want to use something as costly and useful in other areas as APC.

 

I save my APC for things like pad cleaning or grease and oil removal. I use cheaper products for wax removal.

 

Chris

 

Main reason is the control over the aggressiveness as well as the foaming action. An APC/CS mix creates a THICK lather... much thicker than I can get using something like dawn. I'd venture to say the mix foams better than just CS does.

 

In the end its just another option... when it comes to stripping the finish there are a number of options. Do what works best for you.

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Not really... I usually add about 2oz APC to the mix with 4oz of car wash in a foam gun. You can go up or down depending on how potent a mixture you need. It doesn't take much.

 

 

 

Main reason is the control over the aggressiveness as well as the foaming action. An APC/CS mix creates a THICK lather... much thicker than I can get using something like dawn. I'd venture to say the mix foams better than just CS does.

 

In the end its just another option... when it comes to stripping the finish there are a number of options. Do what works best for you.

 

Yeah, I don't even use Dawn anymore because of the lack of foam... I'm more of a panel by panel guy now. It's just kinder to the plastics. It's also the reason I don't use the soap at the coin-ops anymore. My plastics were looking like poo by the spring. They STILL bead up now 6 or 7 months after my last SVRT application. :bow::2thumbs:

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On big Vehicles and your doing a shampoo/APC mix, what I do is split the vehicle into sections. For instance, Wash the roof, hood and trunk then rinse. Next do one side, then the next....It will definitly take you a bit longer, but better safe than sorry right?!:2thumbs:

 

x2

 

This is what I do.

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While I agree that APC works at removing wax and is great for Adams business, I'm not sure why you'd want to use something as costly and useful in other areas as APC.

 

I save my APC for things like pad cleaning or grease and oil removal. I use cheaper products for wax removal.

 

Chris

 

I actually take the opposite approach to this. I think the painted surface's on vehicles are the most delicate, and requires the best APC out there, which is clearly Adam's...and I've used them all (that I know of). Plus at MAYBE 2 strip washes a year for the average vehicle, 2 oz of all purpose cleaner out of 128oz gallon jug, doesn't really affect many people's pocket book in anyway. Plus, it foams like a mother, and according to the website.....

 

"At Adam's Polishes, if a product isn't safe, easy and effective, we kick it to the curb"

 

so that 110% guarantee would be coming into play if something happened to my paint:lol::lol:

 

For cleaning pads and dirt and grime...those are the jobs where virtually any automotive APC will get the job done, with no damage incurred. Especially on tires and undercarriages. Shoot you can even soak your pads in Dawn and get the same result, and Dawn is dirt cheap.

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I actually take the opposite approach to this. I think the painted surface's on vehicles are the most delicate, and requires the best APC out there, which is clearly Adam's...and I've used them all (that I know of). Plus at MAYBE 2 strip washes a year for the average vehicle, 2 oz of all purpose cleaner out of 128oz gallon jug, doesn't really affect many people's pocket book in anyway. Plus, it foams like a mother.

 

 

I use IPA. Quick, easy and cheap...

 

I have a hard time believing that once you mix a little APC and CS and then it's diluted with the water in the foamer, that it truly gets all the sealant or wax off.

 

It may, but I believe the IPA does a more thorough job. JMO of course.

 

Chris

Edited by Chewy
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if you take the shampoo and APC approach, how much water should there be in the bucket?

 

I have 1,3 and 5 oz measuring cups for detailing liquids. So when I apc wash, I APC foam gun (3 oz, 3 oz CS, 22 oz water that leaves enough room to shake a foam up the water in the container) & APC in the bucket. The bucket gets filled about 1/3 of the way up, and 3 oz of APC and CS get put in the bucket and some more shampoo on the Pad or Mitt depending on what vehicle I'm washing. Then I'll agitate the soap on the pad and in the bucket with the hose.

 

A great product I've found, and since there is no competing product, is an IPA product called Eraser. Its smells great and doesn't leave streaking like I've experienced with IPA. That's just my process, and it works fine. Haven't had a complaint yet:cheers:

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I hate to bring this thread back from the dead... BUT... What are the steps for a proper Isopropyl Alcohol "stripwash"?

 

 

1.  Clean vehicle with two bucket wash.

2.  Dry vehicle.

3.  Claybar vehicle using DS.

4.  Remove clay residue with clean Microfiber towel.

5.  Locate IPA and another clean, plush MF towel.

6.  Spritz panel (being cautious of trim and plastics) with either 70% or 70% IPA diluted 1:1 with water.

7.  Use clean MF towel to remove what you just sprayed.

 

That *should* leave your paint nice and stripped for polishing/protecting.

 

Shine on man!

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1.  Clean vehicle with two bucket wash.

2.  Dry vehicle.

3.  Claybar vehicle using DS.

4.  Remove clay residue with clean Microfiber towel.

5.  Locate IPA and another clean, plush MF towel.

6.  Spritz panel (being cautious of trim and plastics) with either 70% or 70% IPA diluted 1:1 with water.

7.  Use clean MF towel to remove what you just sprayed.

 

That *should* leave your paint nice and stripped for polishing/protecting.

 

Shine on man!

 

Chris,

 

With Step 7, do I need to "grind" the Alcohol into the layers of protection (ex. Full Face Melter) in order to get all 3 layers up at once?  If not, do I need to go over each panel a few times with the Alcohol and microfiber in order to slowly remove each layer one at a time?

 

Thanks for the helpful process list above :)

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Chris,

 

With Step 7, do I need to "grind" the Alcohol into the layers of protection (ex. Full Face Melter) in order to get all 3 layers up at once?  If not, do I need to go over each panel a few times with the Alcohol and microfiber in order to slowly remove each layer one at a time?

 

Thanks for the helpful process list above :)

 

No grinding please!  :eek: 

Spray the panel, wipe off.  Repeat on each panel.

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No grinding please!  :eek: 

Spray the panel, wipe off.  Repeat on each panel.

 

Right... I was being sarcastic... I just wanted to know what the pressure needs to be to take the layers off (without grinding anything into paint or pressing too hard).  Lets say trying to rub dried Americana on the paint, off as ... REALLY hard rubbing.  Do I need to rub that hard?

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Right... I was being sarcastic... I just wanted to know what the pressure needs to be to take the layers off (without grinding anything into paint or pressing too hard).  Lets say trying to rub dried Americana on the paint, off as ... REALLY hard rubbing.  Do I need to rub that hard?

 

It should not take any pressure, more like wiping off DS.  The alcohol should dissolve the existing protection.  You can go over it a few times to be sure.  You could use Mineral Spirits too, but be sure it is marked 'odorless' and the "Percent Volatile"  is 100%.  And if it has not already been said, do this a panel at a time.

 

From a trusted source on a different detailing forum:

"If using IPA to remove previously applied wax or paint sealants, simply mist some of the IPA/Water onto the area to be checked and then spread around using a clean microfiber towel folded 4-ways. Work the product gently over the paint and then turn to a dry side and wipe till dry."

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It should not take any pressure, more like wiping off DS.  The alcohol should dissolve the existing protection.  You can go over it a few times to be sure.  You could use Mineral Spirits too, but be sure it is marked 'odorless' and the "Percent Volatile"  is 100%.  And if it has not already been said, do this a panel at a time.

 

From a trusted source on a different detailing forum:

"If using IPA to remove previously applied wax or paint sealants, simply mist some of the IPA/Water onto the area to be checked and then spread around using a clean microfiber towel folded 4-ways. Work the product gently over the paint and then turn to a dry side and wipe till dry."

 

Thank you Michael for all the information.  This is much appreciated.   :)

 

Also, on a funny note, IP A = beer too  :D

Edited by mtnbiker326
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Thank you Michael for all the information.  This is much appreciated.   :)

 

Also, on a funny note, IP A = beer too  :D

 

That mix up happens often, but both can useful in detailing!! :)

 

And as you noticed, the forum will always make the letters "I P A" into IPA.

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Right.  

 

That mix up happens often, but both can useful in detailing!! :)

 

And as you noticed, the forum will always make the letters "I P A" into IPA.

 

I just thought it was funny that I P A is used here to mean Alcohol (of the Isopropyl type) vs drinkable type.  LOL   :jester:

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