K3RMiTdot Posted April 13, 2012 Posted April 13, 2012 For a beginner like me is it nessasary to have these?
Chewy Posted April 13, 2012 Posted April 13, 2012 I use a corded drill if I know I'm doing a lot, but if it's just a quick scratch here or there, I use the cordless.
THE Mook Posted May 17, 2012 Posted May 17, 2012 I think if you have a machine, you should also have the Focus Kit.
DP 08 GXP Posted May 17, 2012 Posted May 17, 2012 i use them on the PC and drill...they definitely come in handy especially on scratches like this one...had to get the drill out
frank20 Posted May 17, 2012 Posted May 17, 2012 I have been using my 4" pads on a corded drill with great success. I would consider them a necessary part for correcting on any vehicle. My only concern is that I only own the flex so I can only use my 4" pads on a drill. Do you guys think it's necessary and would it make sense for me to purchase a PC just to use with the 4" pads so that I can pass over whatever work I do with the drill afterwards using a DA? Or would that basically be a waist of $
txredgt Posted May 17, 2012 Posted May 17, 2012 oh man, i ordered the 4"... Don't forget, if for any reason you don't like how they work on the drill you can send them back for 110%! Try them out though because if you have stubborn spots you can't get with the flex you will love them. Another tip with using the 4" pads is to go over them with the pc/flex afterwards if possible with some fine machine polish even if you use the FMP on the 4" pads.
camaro Posted May 17, 2012 Posted May 17, 2012 ive used the 4" more often than the regular - friends with scratches visit often bc i can help By your Adam's powers combined, I am Captain Detail! Go Adam's
DaveVY Posted April 19, 2012 Posted April 19, 2012 oh man, i ordered the 4"... No problem, you can still use the 4" pads on a drill!
Chewy Posted April 19, 2012 Posted April 19, 2012 i plan on using it on the flex, but from what ive seen most people are using the PC.can it be done using the FLEX? i know its a bit bigger and people are using the PC because of its size. Yep! PC only!!! Corded or Cordless... I think most people only own a cordless anymore. I personally like cordless, but there's NOTHING better than the torque of a 110VAC drill IMO. My drill is infinitely variable speed so I can go as fast or slow as I want. When using a rotary, heat will build up VERY fast, so make sure you use plenty of DS to keep the pad and polish moist.
GrpA Calais Posted April 19, 2012 Posted April 19, 2012 Just used these for the first time with a corded drill on my headlights and I don't know if it was me or what but man did they get warm fast. The polish would flash really quickly as well. I had to stop several times because the panel was getting warm. It did remove the oxidation that was on there though. Seems like every video I've watched the person goes over the panel almost twice as long as I was able to without it getting warm. I'm guessing your heat generation is coming from using a corded drill rather than a cordless. Every video I've seen they use a cordless drill, and typically a cordless runs about half the RPM of it's corded counterpart. If your drill has a dial adjustable stop built into the trigger, try running it at a lower max RPM and see how you go. My 4" Kit is on the way, so I can't speak from experience with them, but more RPM = more heat.
K3RMiTdot Posted April 19, 2012 Author Posted April 19, 2012 i plan on using it on the flex, but from what ive seen most people are using the PC. can it be done using the FLEX? i know its a bit bigger and people are using the PC because of its size.
Adroc33 Posted April 13, 2012 Posted April 13, 2012 Just used these for the first time with a corded drill on my headlights and I don't know if it was me or what but man did they get warm fast. The polish would flash really quickly as well. I had to stop several times because the panel was getting warm. It did remove the oxidation that was on there though. Seems like every video I've watched the person goes over the panel almost twice as long as I was able to without it getting warm.
DaveVY Posted April 13, 2012 Posted April 13, 2012 Yes, I would just drape the cord over your shoulder like the PC/flex cable you seen in the videos. Corded drill is actually stronger in most cases and you won't have to worry about the battery dying. This is what I do now. After my last set of batteries were in need of replacing I just gave away the cordless tool set. Now I just use an old corded drill since all my polishing is near outlets.
davidg Posted April 13, 2012 Posted April 13, 2012 Yes, I would just drape the cord over your shoulder like the PC/flex cable you seen in the videos. Corded drill is actually stronger in most cases and you won't have to worry about the battery dying. Just be sure to watch the original version 6 DVD on how to use it with revelation to heat and stuff.
Green Machine Posted April 13, 2012 Posted April 13, 2012 I got them because I am eventually getting the PC but they are always shown on cordless drills can you use them with a plug in drill? I know it is more convenient to use cordless.
MichiganSRT8 Posted April 13, 2012 Posted April 13, 2012 I LOVE the 4" pads, whether used on the PC of on the Drill as a rotary there is an application for them everywhere.
Chris@Adams Posted April 13, 2012 Posted April 13, 2012 They are necessary if your car has any spots where your larger PC pads won't fit. Door pillars, around lights, etc. Also, if you want to do headlight restoration or remove deeper scratches, you'll need the 4" pads on a drill. It's one of those things that you won't realize you need until you need it. Ya know? Bingo!
Chewy Posted April 13, 2012 Posted April 13, 2012 For a first time detail, I find these 4" pads as important as the polish itself. I'll use them on a drill to remove deep scratches and then follow up with the flex, or if I need too, I'll use them on the PC for the tight areas. IMO, you can't do a proper correction the first time without them. I re-corrected my car after this past winter, and didn't use them.
ChargerMatt Posted April 13, 2012 Posted April 13, 2012 ive spent about 200 bucks already.. and i havent even got the bulk of the kit... oh fml...its going to be well over a grand lOLlasdj Join the club
K3RMiTdot Posted April 13, 2012 Author Posted April 13, 2012 ive spent about 200 bucks already.. and i havent even got the bulk of the kit... oh fml... its going to be well over a grand lOLlasdj
JBlack151 Posted April 13, 2012 Posted April 13, 2012 Detailing can cost a bit... but it is also rewarding. For me it is a type of therapy... just wish my insurance company would view it that way! So true! My wife always uses the phrase "Why don't you go detail something" when I'm getting on her nerves. It really is a form of therapy for us! I did not realize how much I needed the 4" pads until I had to work on vehicles that had tight spaces around emblems and pillars including my own. You'll figure it out over time. Just work on your collection of products I thing at a time. And stay away from the "How much have you spent" thread since you are new to this. It could scare a beginner at first. The 4" pad kit isn't bad on the bank account at all.
DaveVY Posted April 13, 2012 Posted April 13, 2012 For a beginner like me is it nessasary to have these? Like Mike said... they are very useful. In addition to the uses Mike mentioned ... one of my favorite uses is for cleaning the stubborn spots on glass that are so prevalent here in Florida from the hard water and irrigation systems. You can use the 4" pads on a drill (a more aggressive rotary action) or on a PC 7424XP (a less aggressive DA motion). Detailing can cost a bit... but it is also rewarding. For me it is a type of therapy... just wish my insurance company would view it that way!
Tim Posted April 13, 2012 Posted April 13, 2012 I ordered them. Getting things slowly... this is going to be an expensive hobby... hope it pays off some how... Ackk.. Understatement!
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K3RMiTdot
For a beginner like me is it nessasary to have these?
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