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From wet sand to shine...


Chewy

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I ran into a post/thread here that claimed you can't use Adams to go from wet sand to shine, so I set out to show you that that is NOT correct.

 

These photos are of a buddies tank that he painted himself. He's not a professional painter so it's not perfect, but what you see is 3000 grit finish, SSR yellow pad, SHR orange and then FMP white pad. 47ddede3-6fe3-f2ba.jpg

47ddede3-6ff0-eb73.jpg

47ddede3-701a-f64f.jpg

47ddede3-702a-38bb.jpg

 

It's raining outside so I apologize for the photos. This isn't a correction as he didn't want that, but we did finish with the PC. Most (99%) was done with the 4 inch pads.

 

 

Sent from the past using special algorithms and data nodes!

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Nicely done!

 

I'm surprised someone said that as 3000 grit marks should easily be removed by most compounds without a problem. Although there are quicker ways (wool, microfiber pads, etc) a 4" pad should have no problem like you demonstrated.

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I've found the Green pad with SSR is pretty good at quickly getting out 2000 grit wet sanding marks. A wool pad on a high speed rotary will do it quicker but there's a much better chance of burning paint and you still need to follow up with a DA to remove holograms.

 

Nice job Chewy! :rockon:

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The guy I did this for had hacked it up pretty bad... He'd tried buffing on it with a wool pad and some 3M compound, but he hadn't wet sanded it enough and I could still see imperfections galore. I hit it with 2000 grit and then smoothed it out with 3000...

 

I have also used the orange pad and SHR on 3000 and even 2000, but the yellow and SSR hammered it off like no ones business... I was amazed how quickly it shined it up.

 

 

I followed with orange on the drill and then orange on the PC and then white on the PC.

 

Again, it's not corrected, but for a home painted tank, it's pretty dang good... Needless to say, he was HIGHLY impressed. The hard/time consuming part was holding onto it all while we worked on it. Thank god he was around to help or it'd taken forever... :( The side covers (not shown) were the hardest due to their small size.

 

I'm sick of people posting up here that you have to use 3M or Meguires to get this kind of work done so I wanted to set the story straight.

 

He said "Adams huh?" "I may have to give that a try" :rockon:

 

Chris

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The guy I did this for had hacked it up pretty bad... He'd tried buffing on it with a wool pad and some 3M compound, but he hadn't wet sanded it enough and I could still see imperfections galore. I hit it with 2000 grit and then smoothed it out with 3000...

 

I have also used the orange pad and SHR on 3000 and even 2000, but the yellow and SSR hammered it off like no ones business... I was amazed how quickly it shined it up.

 

 

I followed with orange on the drill and then orange on the PC and then white on the PC.

 

Again, it's not corrected, but for a home painted tank, it's pretty dang good... Needless to say, he was HIGHLY impressed. The hard/time consuming part was holding onto it all while we worked on it. Thank god he was around to help or it'd taken forever... :( The side covers (not shown) were the hardest due to their small size.

 

I'm sick of people posting up here that you have to use 3M or Meguires to get this kind of work done so I wanted to set the story straight.

 

He said "Adams huh?" "I may have to give that a try" :rockon:

 

Chris

 

 

Turned out real nice

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How long did it take?

 

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

 

With wet sanding, B.S.-ing and him telling the kids to get inside every 5 minutes due to the torrential rain fall, and chasing after them, I'd say 2 hours for this tank and the two side pieces (not shown)

 

Honestly, it could have taken half that time, but when two guys are working together there's a lot of talking going on too. Plus me showing him how these results are achieved.

 

Chris

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