Polish Necessary after Clay?

[kidwolf908]

Yesterday I washed and clayed my new 2013 Challenger. After a lot of time spent claying, I finally got the finish to a nice smooth feel with the baggie test. It started to get dark, so I pulled the car in the garage and decided to try revive polish and brilliant glaze on the trunk lid and rear quarters. The polish seemed to help remove some more substantial scratches, but it also seems to have created a bunch of small scratches. Glaze helped to fill some of those small scratches in, but I still believe there would be fewer scratches if I hadn't polished.

 

I still have over half the car to do with polish if I decide to do so, but I wanted to see the car in the sun to determine if its truly necessary. What do you guys think? Should I just glaze, seal and Americana the car as it stands? Or finish the polish job even of it does add some minor scratches?

 

Edit: Also wanted to know if I can expect to see any additional filling from either the quick sealant or Americana steps? And if revive is safe to use on my clear coated aluminum wheels?

Edited March 31, 2013 by kidwolf908

[kidwolf908]

Quick Sealant or Machine Super Sealant is a chemical, a paint protection film is a concrete substance that is on your car and visible. It's literally a plastic film over your car. Totally different animals

 

Precisely! Thanks for answering that one camaro. I'm having xpel self healing film put on the entire front bumper, mirrors, door pulls, and rockers behind the wheels. It has a ten year warranty against cracking, peeling, yellowing, etc. And like I said, its self healing, so any scratch in it heals with sunlight or warm water to speed of up. Bug splats, tar, road grime, etc also wipe off a lot easier.

[Bootstrap]

Precisely! Thanks for answering that one camaro. I'm having xpel self healing film put on the entire front bumper, mirrors, door pulls, and rockers behind the wheels. It has a ten year warranty against cracking, peeling, yellowing, etc. And like I said, its self healing, so any scratch in it heals with sunlight or warm water to speed of up. Bug splats, tar, road grime, etc also wipe off a lot easier.

 

How expensive is this stuff

 

Sent from my DROID RAZR MAXX HD

[BluedogGMC]

I have not heard of that stuff before. Can you get it to cover the complete truck or car? Does it have a brand name that would be recognized if I heard of it? Sounds like it could do wonders on the front end.

[kidwolf908]

How expensive is this stuff

 

Sent from my DROID RAZR MAXX HD

 

The film I'm having installed is the best of the best and being installed by a top tier installer in my area. That being said, the whole job that I'm having done is about 700. Pricy, but worth it for me for the protection from scratches and chips.

 

I have not heard of that stuff before. Can you get it to cover the complete truck or car? Does it have a brand name that would be recognized if I heard of it? Sounds like it could do wonders on the front end.

 

The brand name is Xpel. I'm sure you have never heard of it, but I'm sure you've heard of 3M who makes a competing (though inferior) product. And yes, the whole car can be wrapped in film. My installer was working on wrapping an entire McLaren MP4-12C when I visited his shop. If I had the coin, I would machine polish to perfection and wrap my whole car... But we're talking about a couple grand for a job of that magnitude. The install is very time consuming and requires a lot of skill for curves and such.

[BluedogGMC]

Nice... Thanks for the info.

[ihaveacamaro]

I have not heard of that stuff before. Can you get it to cover the complete truck or car? Does it have a brand name that would be recognized if I heard of it? Sounds like it could do wonders on the front end.

 

Yes, you can get it to cover the whole car. Paint Protection Film is also known as Clear Bra.

 

3M makes a brand, although Xpel is generally considered the best in the business.

 

Protect your vehicle's paint with Scotchgard

 

Paint Protection Film - XPEL Technologies Corp.

 

Invisible Paint Protection Film: LLumar Automotive Films

 

ClearMask Automotive Paint Protection And Headlight Protection Film - Auto Clear Bra - Scotchgard Protector - Headlight Covers

 

Paint protection film - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

[Chuckkilo3]

You might want to remove all of the paint defects before covering them with clear film. That would bug me to no end seeing defects beneath the film and not being able to correct them.

[mc2hill]

I'll finish up the wax tomorrow. Maybe do a second coat. Then work on the stripes and wheels.

 

I'm under a bit of a time crunch because I am having paint protection film put on the car this Friday and I wanted to have the paint underneath protected first. Later on down the line, I'll fix all the other surfaces with a polisher, like I said.

 

I would check with your installer before adding another coat of wax. I would guess he will uses IPA or some other surface prep to remove anything from the paint to allow the Xpel to get the best bond to the car.

[EPHIOS]

So, you are using Revive Polish, and it's creating scratches to the paint as well? Your microfiber or/and applicator pad must best dirty, when you were using it.

 

I know that Revive polish should not create swirl and scratches, like some aggressive compounds in the market.

[hslager69]

You might want to remove all of the paint defects before covering them with clear film. That would bug me to no end seeing defects beneath the film and not being able to correct them.

 

exactly ! If you can't get the scratches out before the film gets put on with the products you have,Bring it into get detailed by a professional . That way there would be no scratches under the protective coating,Then when time allows get a pc or flex from Adams with the correct polish line up and you should be good to do future details yourself.Or find an Adams dealer or Adams user in you area to help.

[kidwolf908]

You might want to remove all of the paint defects before covering them with clear film. That would bug me to no end seeing defects beneath the film and not being able to correct them.

 

Luckily, the front end and mirrors don't appear to have any discernable scratches. Even out in the sun, they look totally flat. I'm also quite sure that I have read that the adhesive used in the film actually acts like a wax by filling minor defects under the film.

 

I would check with your installer before adding another coat of wax. I would guess he will uses IPA or some other surface prep to remove anything from the paint to allow the Xpel to get the best bond to the car.

 

Good point. I will e-mail him to make sure I'm not wasting time and product.

 

So, you are using Revive Polish, and it's creating scratches to the paint as well? Your microfiber or/and applicator pad must best dirty, when you were using it.

 

I know that Revive polish should not create swirl and scratches, like some aggressive compounds in the market.

 

I'm inclined to agree with you. I believe it was either my pad or my MF. However, I washed out my pad 3 separate times with APC and plenty of scrubbing with my hands and it still seemed to leave scratches behind. I can't be certain now because the whole car is polished. Unfortunately, I don't have before and after pictures of each panel, so deciding which scratches weren't there before polish is impossible.

 

I just washed all my MF towels at the suggestion of a previous poster, so hopefully that can be written off as a possible culprit going forward.

 

exactly ! If you can't get the scratches out before the film gets put on with the products you have,Bring it into get detailed by a professional . That way there would be no scratches under the protective coating,Then when time allows get a pc or flex from Adams with the correct polish line up and you should be good to do future details yourself.Or find an Adams dealer or Adams user in you area to help.

 

Like I said, the parts being covered by film actually look pretty perfect to me. And the film is supposed to fill in any minor defects in the paint, so I'm not too concerned with it. I'll take another look at it in the sun today just to be sure.

[gencoupe3dot8]

My analysis:

1) Dirty cars make it hard to see swirls, as do contaminates that you would clay out, so after a wash and clay, you most likely have swirls, period... yes even in a brand new car, the dealer installs them for free, then usually cover them with a glaze/filler, so they appear after you do a few washes or a strip wash (IPA/dawn/smidge of APC).

 

2) Revive is more of a paint cleaner than a polish. As other have mentioned, you likely need to step up to machine polishing and either FMP or SHR, starting with FMP first (least aggressive solution first). I don' think you will have much success with your current process.

 

3) Like you mentioned, I would hold off on the wrap until you get the paint to where you are happy with it (whatever % perfect you can live with)

 

Pics might help us help you....

[kidwolf908]

My analysis:

1) Dirty cars make it hard to see swirls, as do contaminates that you would clay out, so after a wash and clay, you most likely have swirls, period... yes even in a brand new car, the dealer installs them for free, then usually cover them with a glaze/filler, so they appear after you do a few washes or a strip wash (IPA/dawn/smidge of APC).

 

2) Revive is more of a paint cleaner than a polish. As other have mentioned, you likely need to step up to machine polishing and either FMP or SHR, starting with FMP first (least aggressive solution first). I don' think you will have much success with your current process.

 

3) Like you mentioned, I would hold off on the wrap until you get the paint to where you are happy with it (whatever % perfect you can live with)

 

Pics might help us help you....

 

Hey there. I agree... I think I will need to step up to machine polishing for the majority of the car. Some spots appear better than others. For some reason, the bumpers seem to be pretty much free of scratches.

 

My girlfriend is awaiting delivery of her new Plum Crazy Challenger and we have a DD that's extremely neglected, so I think a machine polisher would be a nice investment in the near future. I'll wait for my tax return though

 

I've taken a bunch of pictures and will throw them up ASAP. Probably later tonight. I'm still finishing the car up... mainly the stripes now. Still have to clean the interior, but that can wait. Gonna go quick seal and wax the stripes I think.

[Dan@Adams]

My guess would be the clay bar did the scratching before revive polish or the microfiber applicators or towels. My car has a soft clearcoat and I've never scratched it using any kind of Adams polish or microfiber, even with brand new out of the bag towels.

 

It can be very easy to pick up a piece of contaminant in the clay and drag it around with too much force and induce marring and scratching if you don't fold over the clay a lot...ask me how I know...four hours later after severe swirl remover, swirl & haze, and fine machine polish with the Flex and I had the hood on the GTO back to being 95% perfect to then finish up with quick sealant, brilliant glaze, and patriot wax. Lol.

[kidwolf908]

My guess would be the clay bar did the scratching before revive polish or the microfiber applicators or towels. My car has a soft clearcoat and I've never scratched it using any kind of Adams polish or microfiber, even with brand new out of the bag towels.

 

It can be very easy to pick up a piece of contaminant in the clay and drag it around with too much force and induce marring and scratching if you don't fold over the clay a lot...ask me how I know...four hours later after severe swirl remover, swirl & haze, and fine machine polish with the Flex and I had the hood on the GTO back to being 95% perfect to then finish up with quick sealant, brilliant glaze, and patriot wax. Lol.

 

Yea I'm pretty sure you are right that it was the clay bar that brought out those scratches. It's odd because I was folding and re-forming the clay after every panel. But I guess the panels were just really dirty. OH well, I'll be investing in a PC or FLEX in the next month or so.

 

Anyway, long awaited pictures! These are after clay bar, revive, quick sealant, brilliant glaze, and americana. Trim has also been VRT'd and stripes sealed. Still have to revive and seal the rims, but that will wait until the next wash. I couldn't stand another day leaving the car in the garage for detailing.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Dan@Adams]

Yeah, those honestly just look like fine swirl marks from washing or drying, at least to me. Machine polishing will make quick work of those and have your car looking even better...it already looks great, very nice ride!

 

Edit: what kind of washing technique do you use? I always try to do the two bucket method with grit guards and I'm constantly scrubbing off my wash pads on the grit guard to try to have as minimal swirl marks as possible...even more so when washing the black suv, lol.

Edited April 3, 2013 by psu goat

[kidwolf908]

Yeah, those honestly just look like fine swirl marks from washing or drying, at least to me. Machine polishing will make quick work of those and have your car looking even better...it already looks great, very nice ride!

 

Edit: what kind of washing technique do you use? I always try to do the two bucket method with grit guards and I'm constantly scrubbing off my wash pads on the grit guard to try to have as minimal swirl marks as possible...even more so when washing the black suv, lol.

 

Yea I'm thinking it looks better out in the sun than in my garage under lights to be honest. I guess fluorescent light is very revealing. Thank you for the compliment though!

 

My wash method is a two bucket method. After every panel, I dunk my microfiber mitt in the rinse bucket, scrub each side with my hand for a little bit, and dunk it again. I think it does a pretty good job.

[gencoupe3dot8]

Chris,

Those look like pretty standard light swirls (not RIDS), again my guess is you noticed them after claying... but were likely dealer installed.... Claying would have caused more of a scratch-like damage (if a big particle was caught) or something that would look more "cloudly" than the light swirls pictured...

 

I would guess FMP or SHR at most would take care of those (jump right to the flex.. )

 

[m]

[Guest Gone & Forgotten]

Fluorescent light isn't revealing at all... On paint.

 

Halogens... Some LED lighting...

 

Those are dealer swirls.

 

I'm polishing out my dealer swirls on my 130mi new Ram. It's sat in my garage since it got it 9 days ago. Been polishing for 2 days. (After work). 10 hours in so far. I estimate another 12 hours.

 

When you washed it so well... It highlighted the swirling you have.

 

Beautiful car tho. Almost got one of those... Test drove... Said ... I'll end up dead. Got the ram.

[Beemer]

Beautiful car tho. Almost got one of those... Test drove... Said ... I'll end up dead. Got the ram.

 

Dude. You're going to end up dead anyway.

[Guest Gone & Forgotten]

Dude. You're going to end up dead anyway.

 

I'd rather not take someone else out with me, if I had the Chally Straight (Srt8), That's exactly what'd happen.

 

And our town doesn't have a lot of places to use that type of vehicle to its designated potential.

 

Our drag strip is a joke and our round track is a round track... No courses that I know of.

 

I believe in using things to their potential or for what they were designed.

 

I don't own a Flying V guitar cos, well, they were designed for soloists and ease of ripping up solos on the higher register. Well, I am more of a drop tune complex rhythm kind of guy. So, I play 7 strings and les Paul's.

[Beemer]

I was just being a smarta$$.

[goheels]

From the pics, it looks like FMP on a PC (or flex) would take that light swirling right out. Certainly you could step up the polish aggressiveness if need be, but IMHO it isn't likely.

[kidwolf908]

From the pics, it looks like FMP on a PC (or flex) would take that light swirling right out. Certainly you could step up the polish aggressiveness if need be, but IMHO it isn't likely.

 

Hey man. I'm glad you say that. I was hoping those swirls wouldn't require intense correction. I think I'm going to go with the FLEX. I love that Adam says it will take 1/3 the time of the PC. There are a lot of cars in my family and friends that could use a good detailing and I don't mind the work, so I think the investment is worthwhile.

 

I've also had some soreness in my right shoulder the past 2 days from all the buffing by hand and it's worth it just to not have to deal with that.

 

EDIT: Do you guys feel that it's worth using revive on the wheels before quick sealant? OR would it be smarter to just wait until I get a 4" Focus kit for my DeWalt and then hit them with Fine Machine Polish? As you can see in the pics, the wheels are clear coated machined aluminum with black gloss pockets. The black gloss pockets show minor swirls and scratches pretty well, though I'm not sure how easy they would be to buff out.

Edited April 3, 2013 by kidwolf908

[mjhpadi]

I have just read through this thread and let me throw my 2 cents in. First, don't think of Revive as a polish but more as a paint cleaner and also Brilliant should be more of a final prep step then a glaze...IMHO. When I clay, I will leave the residue on the vehicle and use Revive to remove it. Also don't allow the Revive to dry...makes it harder to remove and it doesn't help the finish. Let it down and remove immediately..I seem to get the best results that way. Next I will see if the vehicle needs paint correction and will do that with Swirl and Haze Remove. Next I will go over the vehicle with Fine Machine Polish. Normally the finish looks pretty darn good, so I will use one of the Sealants. After using the sealant, I like to let it cure for at least 18 hours before moving on. Next I will now go over the car with Brilliant, as this will be the final prep for wax and since it does have some cleaning properties, it will do the final cleaning before wax. Also, I have found that Brilliant adds a lot of depth to the final result if used before waxing. Next I will move on to the wax. Any of the Adam's waxes will product outstanding results.

As far as using Revive to prepare the wheels...sure can't hurt but I would only use it on the painted part of the wheel. BTW, you can use S&HR and Fine Machine Polish by hand on the painted parts of the wheels. I have done so on other small areas. My advice is use it sparingly and don't allow it to dry..apply and work the S&HR by hand on a microfiber cloth and then remove it immediately, and the same with the FMP. You can always go over the area a few times if you are achieving the results you desire. Good luck with it.