Using soap for clay lube- Bad for clay?

[Junior]

Anyone else use soap for clay lube? Do you notice if it kills the clay? My clay bar was in decent shape it seemed after a few uses, but then I clayed using soap from the wash pad and it seems like the clay quickly degraded.I finished the car, but the clay seems to be trashed now. Really just wondering if that is sort of how things are when you use soap. I used the new Adams Shampoo.

[BRZN]

The 5 gallons are eligible for sales discounts

 

Only buy the 5 gallon totes of products if you go through it quickly.

Most of the products will last at least one year if kept in a cool, dark place. Buying large volumes and not going through it quickly could leave you with an older version of a newer, reformulated product.

[Guest washemup]

5 gallons of Adams detail spray for $189, I use a concentrate that makes 5.5 gallons for $18. That's 90% cheaper. I don't think others are being argumentative, just stating alternatives that are more cost effective. I don't have the Rinseless, but at 50 cents a bottle when mixed for a clay lube, I'd use it if I did.

 

What is the purpose of a clay lube? To allow the clay to slide across the paint and remove stuck on contaminates without sticking to the paint.

 

Adams detail spray is a fantastic product. Using it for clay lube to me is like opening a bottle of expensive wine with hamburgers and hot dogs. I'd rather save it to add some pop to a just washed car, or remove fingerprints off clean paint.

 

Not to add more fuel to the fire, but I don't use clay unless the car has very soft paint on it. Clay alternatives cut time in half or better to remove surface contaminates, require no kneading, and if dropped just need to be rinsed. Much more cost effective.

Edited October 10, 2015 by washemup

[Ricky Bobby]

To put this thread back on topic....

 

With the point I made on the last page and to answer the OP's question again, if using a pH neutral, gentle Car Shampoo like Adam's, NO it is not bad for the clay, and NO it will not be "too slick to clay" it will work and decontaminate just fine.  Many professional detailers do so (Larry Kosilla was mentioned earlier).  If you are finished washing the car and have a clean bucket of suds go to town before you give it a final rinse and dry, and you can go right into polishing.

 

This is less about a "which product works is my favorite" thread, which is what it has become, and more about a "which process is more efficient" for those of us who detail for dollars either on the side or professionally.  Personally I clay after my wash and before I dry, and I don't personally use Detail Spray.  If you like to, that is perfectly fine.  I save it for wipedowns.

 

Again use what you like and use it often. Many of us would rather save the Detail Spray for wipedowns only, but if you like to clay with it, thats great!  As that is what is in the Adam's regimen, however, we do like to experiment and share ideas on this forum, so lets do so politely and with respect to the guys paying for the board.

Edited October 10, 2015 by Ricky Bobby

[Guest washemup]

Does a process become less efficient for someone maintaining their own cars vs someone who details for profit?

 

I fully respect Adams regimen for claying, but if I can accomplish it quicker and/or save money at the same time. Which is what the OP is trying to do using shampoo for his lube, it's just more practical.

 

Which I think is what this thread has become, a discussion on practical solutions for clay lube.

 

If you want to use standard clay, fine. I can use a prep towel and be done in less then 1/2 the time. 

 

Not knocking any Adams products. I like all of them I've used. I just like to be practical as well.

[Chris@Adams]

This thread has ran it's course Thanks for all the replies!