Correction Polish "bonding" with paint and difficult to remove

[Quick Time Detailing]

Hey guys, I recently started trying out the two step polish from Adams. On a truck I detailed this weekend, I started out with clay barring the whole thing then went straight to the Correction Polish, no wash in between. I started with the roof which went smoothly. I did the roof in 3 sections, with 3-4 drops of polish and a hit of detail spray for each section. The roof was a cake walk, but when I went to the hood is when it kind of went downhill.

 

Starting with the hood I noticed the correction polish became more and more difficult to remove with a microfiber towel. I found myself having to use detail spray on the towel to remove the polish. I was adding a hit of spray and 2-3 drops of polish to each panel, more so on the hood since I did it in 3 sections.

 

I was in the shade in a garage where the temp was about 70* and using a Torq10FX with 5" foam pad, applying product at lowest speed and the polishing at 5/6. Does this sound like too much product and overworking it? I kept thinking more drops were needed only because I swear I could barely see the product at some times, so I'd add a drop here or there.

 

Just trying to correct my game for the next time around. I think I added about an hour of unececessary work in trying to get the polish off.

 

Nick @ Quick Time Detailing

[BrianT]

.im guessing too much product. I brought a new Rupes ES15 and tried a new microfiber pad and like you it was impossible to get off. I knew I put too much product on when I primed it, so I went back to a foam pad until I can get the microfiber figured out. Try more detail spray before adding more product

[AvsBest]

Too much product.

 

I use 3 pea size drops for half a panel, then 2 pea size, then 1 pea size, then detail spray only. Then return to 2, 1, DS and so on. By the sound of it you have at least double if not triple the amount you should have with a foam pad.

[Kingsford]

Too much or you're working it too long and it's drying.

[BRZN]

Don't wipe the PCP residue off the paint if you're planning on moving to the PFP. The PFP will remove any PCP residue. Or, use BG right over top of the PCP residue. The BG will take it right off and leave you a nicely glazed surface, ready for your LSP.

Edited November 8, 2016 by BRZN

[Quick Time Detailing]

Don't wipe the PCP residue off the paint if you're planning on moving to the PFP. The PFP will remove any PCP residue. Or, use BG right over top of the PCP residue. The BG will take it right off and leave you a nicely glazed surface, ready for your LSP.

Oh I didn't know this. I thought for sure all the residue would have To come off first.

[BRZN]

Nope, you'll be fine going right to the next product/step.

[Kingsford]

I've never been a fan of the polishing over the top of other polish for a few reasons.... You can't see your progress and know if what you are doing is working but moving onto the next step. The dry polish on the paint seemed to clog pads faster. It also seemed to cause a lot more dusting than normal. Everyone has their own process.