Project Realization Has Set In - Any Suggestions?

[LinPark]

It's very, very clear to me that I need some recommendations here. I don't drive my car every day (it can sometimes go a few weeks without leaving the garage) but my detailing time is extremely limited. Is there a way to do three or four 2' x 2' sections each night and get away with NOT cleaning the pads? Maybe put them in a Ziploc bag or something. When I clean my pads, I usually have to wait almost 48 hours for them to dry to be usable again.

 

I generally do SHR, then FMP, then Revive, then MSW when I work and could probably do a panel on the car each night in about 2 hours. The trick is getting all those nights strung together when the car is clean and having pads ready to work with.

 

Will leaving the product in the pads for say 24 to 48 hours without using them actually damage them beyond use? Or, would placing them in separate large Ziploc bags between sessions keep things moving along for me?

 

Thanks!

[Laguna]

Any faster or any longer and you risk the pads delaminating or doing damage to the PC itself.

 

I'd like more info on this.

 

Doing it at 6k OPMs shouldn't affect the machine at all, it's built to be a power tool. That's what it's doing. 30 seconds - 1 minute isn't very long.

 

Not sure what you mean on de-laminating?

 

:confused:

[Junkman2008]

Is that a 5 Gallon jug of Glass Cleaner??

 

APC. I can kill roaches with that much of that stuff and I use it on everything.

[Oupavoc]

Ok not to hijack the thread, so you guys don't clean the pads in between multiple passes?what do you guys do when the pads bake and are just not doing there job?

 

QUIT USING TOO MUCH PRODUCT!

 

Your pads won't get caked up with product if you use the right amount, and use detail spray to control any flaking (a sure sign that you are using too much product). This is a typical problem that novices to machine detailing make. If 1X is good, 2X is not necessarily better. When novices think that they are not making what progress they think they should, using more product is the first mistake they make. Using more product not only cost you money and waste product, it also makes the process of removing swirls LESS effective!

 

Less is more in machine polishing.

 

If you're not overdoing the polish you shouldn't ever have a problem with the pads caking up. If you do then a shot of detail spray and less product for a few passes will remedy the issue. If that doesn't work its always a good idea to have a backup pad.

 

 

Ok thanks guys, I will keep that in mind, I should be getting a few of my orders this week, cant wait. I already go a few in but still waiting on some more. I can't really start my detail without the claybars I ordered. AS for backup pads I'm covered ordered 2 of each so now I wait here patiently I want to get to it and get my hands dirty

[Team Adam's]

I'd like more info on this.

 

Doing it at 6k OPMs shouldn't affect the machine at all, it's built to be a power tool. That's what it's doing. 30 seconds - 1 minute isn't very long.

 

Not sure what you mean on de-laminating?

 

:confused:

 

Delaminating would be the velcro backing, guide ring, or other things that are secured by a glue separating from the rest of the pad. It was not intended, nor should it be expected, to withstand those kinds of forces.

 

The PC was not designed to freespin, by allowing it to throw a heavy, wet, pad around at 6000opm (and god knows how many RPM) its putting undue stress on the machine which it was never intended to handle. This is part of the reason you always start and stop the machine while its in contact with the paint. In addition to not slinging polish everywhere it reduces the stresses placed on the PC.

 

I mean, the engine in your car redlines at what? 6500 rpm? You wouldn't put it in neutral and just stand on the gas unnecessarily would you? Just b/c it CAN doesn't mean it SHOULD.

 

Ok not to hijack the thread, so you guys don't clean the pads in between multiple passes?what do you guys do when the pads bake and are just not doing there job?

 

If you're not overdoing the polish you shouldn't ever have a problem with the pads caking up. If you do then a shot of detail spray and less product for a few passes will remedy the issue. If that doesn't work its always a good idea to have a backup pad.

[Zeus_SVT]

That's why I have more than one of each pad. No monkey is going to hold up the Junkman show. This will also resolve the OP's problem.

 

The warehouse has more pads. Get you some more.

 

 

Is that a 5 Gallon jug of Glass Cleaner??

[LinPark]

That's why I have more than one of each pad. No monkey is going to hold up the Junkman show. This will also resolve the OP's problem.

 

The warehouse has more pads. Get you some more.

 

 

Let me know the next time you are going to be in Tampa - that way I can hit your garage!!!! And look, you've made it easy - all I need is a U-Haul with a ramp and that whole thing will roll right in.

 

I also agree with the comment about the white pad - that one is by far the slowest to dry - I now have an area in my garage with a fan that is specifically setup to dry these pads. If I had as many as Junkman though I wouldn't need that.

[blackws6ta]

That there is alot of product. I made the mistake of using too much product. Instead of adding product for each panel/section I just gave the pad a couple spritzes of DS That seemed to work just fine.

[Nordgrey]

I actually just added them to the wish list........LOL

 

 

Hmmmm, might add those pumps as well. **** you Junkman and your rack of goodies!

[Junkman2008]

Since we are on this topic here, all my pads, be they the hand wax applicators, focus pads or the full size pads, dry out nicely after I clean them. Except the 7" white pad. It holds onto water like it is going on a desert crossing.......

 

I clean it the same way I clean the other 7" pads and the focus pads, but for whatever reason, even a couple days later it can still have water deep inside it if I give it a good squeeze.

 

That's why I have more than one of each pad. No monkey is going to hold up the Junkman show. This will also resolve the OP's problem.

 

The warehouse has more pads. Get you some more.

 

[Nordgrey]

Since we are on this topic here, all my pads, be they the hand wax applicators, focus pads or the full size pads, dry out nicely after I clean them. Except the 7" white pad. It holds onto water like it is going on a desert crossing.......

 

I clean it the same way I clean the other 7" pads and the focus pads, but for whatever reason, even a couple days later it can still have water deep inside it if I give it a good squeeze.

[Junkman2008]

Ok not to hijack the thread, so you guys don't clean the pads in between multiple passes?what do you guys do when the pads bake and are just not doing there job?

 

QUIT USING TOO MUCH PRODUCT!

 

Your pads won't get caked up with product if you use the right amount, and use detail spray to control any flaking (a sure sign that you are using too much product). This is a typical problem that novices to machine detailing make. If 1X is good, 2X is not necessarily better. When novices think that they are not making what progress they think they should, using more product is the first mistake they make. Using more product not only cost you money and waste product, it also makes the process of removing swirls LESS effective!

 

Less is more in machine polishing.

 

I'd like more info on this.

 

Doing it at 6k OPMs shouldn't affect the machine at all, it's built to be a power tool. That's what it's doing. 30 seconds - 1 minute isn't very long.

 

Not sure what you mean on de-laminating?

 

:confused:

 

Delamination has nothing to do with the polisher, it is the pad that Dylan is talking about. When you turn the machine up that high, it is trying to throw the pad off the machine. The only thing holding the pad onto the machine is the hook and loop system. It ain't gonna hold forever when you do that! What will end up happening is the backing on the pad will fail while you're working on the car and the pad will slip right off the polisher. You of course will be caught off guard by this and grind the back plate into your paint. That damage is not going to buff out.

 

Do not sling your pads at 6K unless that pad is up against the car (as in you're buffing something).

[Oupavoc]

Ok not to hijack the thread, so you guys don't clean the pads in between multiple passes?what do you guys do when the pads bake and are just not doing there job?

[Superdutytd]

Not to mention I've never had it hurt to have some water with the pad. I mean DS is a water based product (I would imagine at least) and I use spritzes of water to help some compounds have more working time. I wouldn't worry about it if there is a bit of water or moisture left in them.

[Team Adam's]

Whoa whoa whoa guys... some info here is kinda off.

 

First off, never, ever, ever store your pads in an air tight bag. Moisture (even that of the polish) can cause mildew in just a few hours. Mildew will destroy your pads.

 

The sling dry method works, but unlike what Laguna suggested do not do it for a long period of time and do not do it at 6k opms. Put the head of the PC into an empty bucket, turn the PC to speed 1 and let it run for about 30 seconds, that will fling most of the water out. Any faster or any longer and you risk the pads delaminating or doing damage to the PC itself. Free spinning at 1000 opm is more than enough to throw the water out... 6k is just excessive.

 

You can let the pad sit overnight, but I wouldn't recommend much longer than that. Make sure its somewhere it won't have a bunch of debris settling on it, bugs tend to be attracted to chemicals too so you run that risk.

 

If you really want to do it right get yourself 2 of every pad. Use one set, clean them, leave them to dry. While those are drying use the other set, clean them, leave them to dry. Go back to the first set... repeat.

 

I generally recommend having a backup set of pads (white and orange) anyways b/c you never know when you might run into an issue mid correction and thats just annoying.

[XQIZT]

I sling mine dry...they're usually ready for use within 24 hours.

[Chris@Adams]

I know that you can put in-use paint brushes and rollers in a ziplock bag and then leaven them in the fridge for a few days without having to worry about them drying out. I wonder if that would work with buffing pads?

 

Be sure to run this idea by the wife or S/O first, of course.

Rich, I thought that very same thing, that is how I always do my paint brushes and rollers covers.I thought I would experiment with the pads some time!

[Marylander]

I know that you can put in-use paint brushes and rollers in a ziplock bag and then leaven them in the fridge for a few days without having to worry about them drying out. I wonder if that would work with buffing pads?

 

Be sure to run this idea by the wife or S/O first, of course.

[Chris@Adams]

I think you need to clean pads every time. After cleaning them with APC, put them back on PC down in your wash bucket and run them. This will sling most of the water out.Then set them up to dry. :2thumbs:As long as your car doesn't leave the garage you can do a panel at a time. If it get dusty from setting just use DS first.

[Laguna]

Put the pad on the PC after rinsing them out and go out in an open area (not by a car or house). Turn the pad so it's 90* to the ground and crank it up to 6k OPMs. Hold it there for a good minute and your pads will be dry or will have almost all water out and will be good to go the next day.

[whiterp199]

I have let the pads sit over night. I give them a couple squirts of DS, put them in a zip lock bag and then stick them out of the sun somewhere. If I remember I just check them to make sure they are not drying but I have not had any problems. The longest I have let them sit is about 15 hours though.

[hawgfan]

IMO, I wouldn't leave the product on the pads, even in a ziploc bag the product can still dry out. If it were me I would just buy an extra orange and white pad.