Junior

Sorry Chris it is a polish from another brand. Its about the only thing "not Adams" in my arsenal.

Thanks Dan. I am using the Cyclo mostly and sometimes the Flex. I have never used the machine for this specific polish, but thinking about it. Hence the reason for the inquiry. The polish is one offered by another company obviously. It will be awesome if Adams comes out with one.

Which pad/pads should I use with an AIO polish? White MF or Foam finishing pads? That is what I am leaning towards after reading some info about AIO polish.

Yeah I mean I've seen in the past where the GWDT picked up a lot of dirt, and I definitely wash it when I see that. But this time there was no noticeable evidence. Maybe I am going blind? My understanding is it traps dirt in the pockets, which makes me believe it won't be an issue as long as there isn't an abundance of dirt.

I'd like to ask a question here. Has anyone just air dried their GWDT after drying the car versus machine washing it? Mine was fairly clean and I think probably not in need of a machine wash. Just thinking that might extend the life of the towel. I would wash it if I saw any real dark spots on it, but my car was pretty clean to begin with so I dont think there is any risk to the paint from a dirt in the towel perspective. Opinions?

Okay I went over them a few times and it made a pretty big difference, but there is still more room for improvement. Now my question is can I use the microfiber pads on the wheels with the drill attachment? And if so, is it safe to go back to using the microfiber pads on the paint afterward? I have a set of dedicated foam pads to keep things separate, but only one set of mf pads.

Guys I actually used a Mr Clean Magic Eraser on the door panels and dash and it worked like a champ. Not sure i will use that method often because typically TID or diluted APC works well. But this was LAAAYYERS of crud. Anyway, I should have taken some pics. The door panels look brand new now! I have three more trucks to go so I will be sure to get pics of before and after on them.

Thanks Jason I am going to look into that.

Once again, Team Adams has exceeded my expectations. I called customer service for some help on a purchase and Ben was extremely helpful and efficient at getting things handled. It is getting to be almost ridiculous how good these folks are time and time again. I wonder what Adam does to have a team that knocks it out of the park 1000 percent every time! I can definitely see a common mindset in all phases of this company. And now you guys got ol Dylan back too. Outstanding product support and customer service! Thanks Ben and team, Merry Christmas and Happy New year to all of you!

Thanks Doc VK! I'll see if I can get some pics. I was really thinking the steamer would be the way to go. Autogeek has one and it runs like 300. It might be the weekend before I can get back with the company and get pics because the trucks are all out on the street until then. Never done fleet maintenance before, but this gig might be just what I need to get my own little company up and running.

Guys, help me out here please! I just got a job doing interiors on a local company's trucks. Some of these trucks have been absolutely hammered. They are International trucks with a three seat cab. I used 1:1 diluted APC and actually a bucket of car shampoo with the tire and fender brush to hit the rubberized floor which worked really well. That is not where I am puzzled. The areas that gave me trouble were the door panel and dash. I basically used cotten terry towels and a foaming cleaner along with the diluted APC to boost the grease/stain cutting ability. I basically foamed the panel and let it sit for a few minutes then hit the towel with 10 blasts of 1:1 dilution APC and started agitating the surface. Then I followed with a clean dry towel to dry and remove as much grime as possible. I have a few questions about alternative methods. Is there a Cyclo brush I could use for this? Would a steam cleaner be a better option? I saw one that seemed to be pretty powerful, but not sure what 220 degrees will do to interior plastic. Or should I have used full strength APC or another chemical or chemical combination alltogether? What about the media I am using, is there something else like maybe the new interior brush I should have tried? My problem is basically that I went over the door panels and dash about 4 times and I still thought they looked awful.

How about foaming sprayers?

Cool! Sounds like you are pretty much set then.

Thats awesome, you will love the Cyclo! Its a great machine. A couple of questions 1) Do you have what you need to wash the car? 2) Do you have a decent clay bar and lubricant/ Detail Spray 3) Do you have quality micro fiber towels for product removal? 4) Do you have some good wax for when you are done polishing?

Nice

Lower profile fender brush varient. The current one is awesome but it is a tad too wide for many vehicles with tight clearances.

Awesome guy! Pics?

In the interest of time maintaining/enhancing the LSP, I like reload type of products: Water activated sealant Car Shampoo with polymers added In the interest of time getting the finish to a good place with less steps, I like the idea of an AIO. Is there a way to make detail spray anti-static? I saw something about a Truck Brush. Is that in the works?

Phil, as Chris mentioned, make sure the surface is clean and prepped. Have you clayed the car? You want to be working with a very smooth, contaminant free surface. It doesn't "have to be" but that will give the product the best surface to adhere to. You can also do a wipe down with WW or IPA wipe down with a 50/50 mix Alcohol to water. All those steps make for best results.

One thing I like to do is spread the wax/sealant into the applicator pad either by butterfly technique or with a finger. That way, it's not going to lay a thick coat down on the first contact patch. I usually go with the quarter sized amount most of the time, but once the applicator gets "loaded" and depending on the size of the panel, you may go to a dime size. I try to go in straight lines when applying an LSP. But thats personal preference. If you have double soft towels, they seem to be the best for removing LPS. I would do like others have stated and give the car a once over post removal. Really, a wipe down with the DS or WW about an hour after it has been removed and given time to cure is what I usually do. That levels it and I dont think it diminishes shine or effectiveness of the product. Also, it has been mentioned on this Forum that you can apply BG first and come behind it with the LPS. Just to give you options. Have fun fella.

All I can say is I'm glad Dylan is "on the mother"

Only reason I know about it is there is a detail shop around here that uses it.

Well it seams similar to that one, but no its from another company. Its described as an express polymer sealant.

The one I have familiarity with you basically spray it onto a microfiber towel and dry the car with it. I like it and it works well in conjunction with Rinseless or traditional wash methods using Adams RW or CS. You can even dampen the mf towel and apply it to a dry car.

Thanks Doc