Junior

Thanks hoss

Along the same lines of this post, does anyone else use MFBR on the foam polishing pads? I thought that had been discussed in a previous post, but couldnt track it down. The reason I ask is that sometimes iAPC doesnt get the pad all the way clean, but MFBR seems to work.

Starting out strong chief!!!

So Doc no more priming the pad with a shot of DS?

Rinseless is a good way to go man. I do that often with my car which is black and tends to show everything. You can have a bucket on standby and use it a few times over the course of a week or two. Either that or get a DI water set up and rinse the car down.

Nice!!!

Yeah I wouldnt mess around with anything else. You could end up causing more harm and more cost in the end.

I am in Columbus, just not the one everybody knows. Man, I would be all over this like a cheap suit if it wasnt for that small detail.

Ace, I did that on my car yesterday and my mind might be playing tricks on me but I thought it looked wetter. I see what you are getting at, but I dont think water would really do much to diminish it any more than traditional wax application of LSP on top of BG would. I mean when I apply HGG it is with very light pressure. I probably use much more pressure with wax if that makes sense. It seems like waxing is a more invasive process to whatever currently exists on the paint relatively speaking.

Scott, What he said plus VRT and Rinseless wash and some good microfiber. The MF bundle is a good start. The wash wedge is also a great product if you are currently washing with a sub par mitt or pad. All of the products work really well together. You can mix and match things by starting small or go for a decent kit/lineup. I have been buying Adams since 2009 and have not been dissapointed with any of the Adams line. Do you have a specific budget? From what I have seen (see the post "Big News"), a huge product release is about to take place probably for the 4th. You might want to check that out becuase typically they kick things off with a great sale and shipping options. You could potentially save quite a bit.

So what is the question?

Start with a bottle, but if you are like me, it will be like the detail spray where you will find yourself looking for reasons to use it. And then you will eventually need a gallon because blowing through the bottles will prove much more expensive over time.

Yeah man it is perfect as a topper or reload product on top of your lsp

Not sure I get your question. Are you asking about two years or two months? I use the product about every other wash so its difficult for me to speak to the exact longevity. But I can tell you the beading action is off the charts weeks after application. I think the longevity is as good as anything else I have come across if not better considering the ease of application.

Doc I am wondering if anyone has talked about this, but as far as separation goes, do we need to shake the product in between uses? Or is it okay to let it sit for weeks at a time and just shake when used? I use mine pretty regularly, but I do have a gallon since I blew through my 16 ounce bottle pretty fast. Testament to just how awesome this product is for sure. The only other products that come close from a usage perspective might be shampoo, detail spray, and rinseless wash for me. Makes me think you guys could potentially make a kit with those 4 products and a bucket and some towels. You could call it your Wash Experience Boosting Kit! Regardless, I am sure separation is probably not a concern, but just wanted to ask. And can you describe what seperates in there? Is that because of the resins present?

Just did a wash with the new blue stuff. I am impressed with the slickness as well as how long the foam seemed to cling to the paint. Sometimes with the old stuff I would tend to see water spots during the drying process, but with this new edition, I saw few if any. I think you guys have a winner with this one. Is anyone surprised by that?

Yep you could really use a combination of methods. Waterless or diluted rinseless with a WW MF towel or if it is more grimy go with a pretreat and do Rinseless Wash in those areas. Once you move further out from the last time you did a traditional two bucket, the more you need to think about a pretreat and rinseless. I do basically the same thing with my cars because like you stated I do not want to let the water spots bake in. It is a battle, but I think its worth fighting on a week to week basis. Checking for rain patterns drives most of my Rinseless Wash timing. This time of year can really suck in that regard.

Hit my 2000 Lexus DD with some HGG and everybody remarked how shiny the car was. They know I keep it detailed up so the fact they noticed the level of shine was testament to how good this stuff is.

Okay then based on that try hitting it with two shots. Those pads have so much less surface area versus the Double Soft I bet you saturated it a little more than ideal.I think Less is More for this and many of the Adams products. Thin layers are best. I have used the HGG on my personal cars probably 10 times and done a few SUVs and and one or two other vehicles and just now got down to half the bottle.

Too much product would be my gut reaction. How many sprays per panel? Also, you say wetted, how damp was the applicator? Did you use a blue MF applicator sold on this site or something else? You need it loaded with a decent amount of H2O, not dripping wet, but not just misted with some water. It needs water to activate so sounds like your HGG to water ratio is a little off. You did spray onto the pad and not the paint correct?Make sure the applicator has enough water and try reducing the number of HGG sprays into the applicator per panel and see where that gets you.

Makes sense.

Right and the PC also only got 70% correction so he stated it would require another pass. So by that rarionale, the Flex is more than twice as fast. That would make sense based on my experience with both. The PC took close to three times as long for me.

Nice video Jason. Never saw that one before. In reality, its really closer to twice as fast or more there because he needed one pass with the Flex, but two with the PC. Or am I missing something?

If you are doing it for money, speed is the biggest factor. For that reason, I would lean towards the Flex. It is a very safe tool. If you have mastered the PC you can handle the Flex. It just requires some strength and focus to keep it steady. She is much more powerful and can sometimes tug a bit. It will not harm the paint on curves and edges. You wouldnt want to hold it still on any of those areas. Its just a pass across them and you are fine. If you watch the videos you can see the speed and how to control it. I think your first thought was right. In the end, either can get the job done much better than the PC. Flip a coin!!!

Been using the technique you described for several RInseless Washes with no issue on black paint. You should be good to go!