Junior

I have the visco clay and it stretches pretty easy. Have you used the big blue clay bar and if so how easy was that to stretch/fold etc? Because the visco is waaaay easier to manipulate. I use both. If the answer is that you have used the big blue and it is easier to stretch etc then I think you might have a bad bar. But I'll let more folks chime in on this. I'll say this as well, I have really enjoyed the visco clay. I just used it on an old farm truck and it smoothed that bad boy out like glass.

I have done the same with no issue. I think the other concern I saw was make sure the soap doesn't have a moisture or lotion additive.

Isn't one Prestige Autocare?

What he said too

If correction is not required then I wouldn't even use PFP. That's really the point of using it to begin with. But as for your question about the speed, I do not think you can "hurry" the flash time. The working time is the working time with the polishes. The diminishing abrasives need time to finish down. So you would basically be stopping short of allowing that to happen and my bet is you would be doing more harm than good. Although you hate it, BG would be the better option to use with the red pad and a little bit of pressure. I just glazed a truck the other week and it brought out a good shine with little effort.

What he said...

Have not had that happen with mine and it's been in use for probably close to 2 years. Looks brand new still. Do you rinse it out and shake out the moisture and allow it to air dry after use?

The old version is still really good Chris. Based on the feedback I am seeing the main difference will be the time you let it haze. I think with the previous version you want to apply and let haze and buff off quickly. Whereas with the new version you can let it set up longer without difficult removal.

Thanks Steve. I saw the post you are referring to. However, my question is not relative to the mark 2, but rather the legacy Rupes 15.

Thanks big guy.

Just curios if anyone could chime in on how the new Flex compares to the Rupes 15 Legacy (not the mark 2). I understand it's brand new and chances are this comparison is one that will not be common since there is a mark 2 out. Just wondered. Thanks for any input.

And I didn't mean to hijack the thread. I agree the wheel brush is awesome!

John I was asking the same due to the tighter wheel wells where the standard fender brush can sometimes be too tight. I end up fighting to get it against the wheel well because the tire is so close. I think the bristles are close to three inches long on my fender brush. I think one that was angled with about 1-1.5 inches would be perfect. I have the wheel woolie and it can work, but I find it is a bit too bendy to really put pressure on the wheel wells that are trashed.

If detailing for dollars I would say go with the Flex. It can knock some work out extremely fast. I have a Rupes 15 a Flex a PC and a Cyclo. The PC is outclassed by the other three in many ways. The PC is a great tool, but the others are definitely better. You really won't be disappointed no matter what you go with.

Awesome Jeff it looks great! I am hoping to break it out on my DD tomorrow.

Thanks Dan!

Good deal guys. I picked up a container of it last week. Hope I get a chance to use it soon. Pollen has been really bad here in Georgia:(

I like to use the sealant first and then H2O. I think the sealant would prove much more durable, but don't really have any evidence to back that up. Maybe a split window test is in order! Either way, I look at H2O as a way to replenish the GS and an easy way to seal the glass during the wash process. I think f you didn't have the GS it would probably be a decent option to just use H2O. But again durability wise, I would be willing to bet the GS goes a bit longer. Mine seems to last foooorrreeevvvvvveerrrr.

Sorry bud. Dogs really are mans best friend and when we lose one it can be tough. I cried like a baby the last time our family lost ours.

Just wondering if anyone has busted out the new paste wax yet and if so how did you like it?

For me: Wash vehicle preferably when it's cool Test surface for roughness with your hand or do the baggy test Make sure you use a decent amount of lubricant (Detail spray/Rinseless diluted 1:16 to 1:32/Adams soap in a spray bottle mixed with water) Detail spray works great but you can blow through it very quickly Do one section at a time You can use your off hand to glide over the paint to ensure it is getting smooth Don't use too much pressure, just a little is all you should need you're really just gliding it I typically go in cross hatch pattern Check the bar frequently and if you see a lot of junk, fold it a few times to force the contaminant into the center I sometimes pick junk off before folding too if it is a big enough piece of debris If you drop the bar on the ground I would just throw it away so you need to really make sure on vertical surfaces you have a good grip Clay headlights and glass too Hope this helps

Absolutely you can! Check the new video under the video section to learn all about it.

Yep pretty much. I swipe the wedge with my hand prior to taking it to the bucket and grit guard. It knocks off dirt so easily. Then when I am done I squeeze out the water and soap a bit and arrange and straighten the foam fingers. I think doing all of that helps keep it like new after dozens of washes.

Totally agree man. The wedge has some great longevity.

I haven't noticed any adverse affects on my cars and they are mostly black. But I pre treat the entire vehicle with Rinseless diluted and foam gun the car.