Junior

Holy smokes dude!!!!!! You have a great start, way better than I ever did! The polisher is the next phase but you have all you need to avoid swirls for sure. That's awesome.

Right there with you, interested to see the consensus. Any way to make this a poll?

Jordan, After years of owning and using a number of polishers, I can attest the vibration of the PC and the torque of the Flex are extreme detractors for me. I still have both, and I still value them as they are good in many ways, but I find myself using them for more specific purposes and not as often. With that being said, this new polisher appears to be one that will be smooth and ultimately easier on you physically. It took a post by Dylan for me to realize really how much smoothness and ease of use matters. That's why I use the smoother machines I own far more frequently these days. Fighting my polisher is no longer enjoyable. Trust me, if you had to do a lot of work with the PC and potentially some of the others offered by competitors, you would have some serious fatigue in your hands and just in general. Polishing should be enjoyable.

Jordan, I think it looks like a decent setup. I wouldn't get too hung up on the warranty. I don't think many carry more than a year. I have a PC that is 7 years old and it still runs fine. I have a couple others and all work after doing multiple cars. You take care of the basic dos and donts and you should be fine. I get what people are discussing here because Adams has rolled out a number of new products this year. But speaking strictly about this polisher, it has all the features you need to get a great finish. Time will tell and once people start using these out there, you will begin to see what they like and what they don't. There are pros and cons to all the polishers I have ever used. Some run hot, some will vibrate your teeth out of your head, and some are lacking in power to correct. I think one of the biggest cons to many customers has been price and that is clearly where Adams made a decision to meet a need. Most enthusiasts will not want to spend $400 on an item they might use a time or two. Cut that number in half and I think it opens the door to get more people wanting to learn and start machine polishing. If I were in the market for my first polisher, or a step up from the PC, this one would be high on my list. Dealing with this company you cannot go wrong. If you really want some answers, email their customer support or pick up the phone and call them.

It seems like 99% of everything we consume as consumers is made somewhere else. Adams has made a commitment to sell made in the USA goods when possible. They have done more than most companies out there in that regard. If not for owning a Rupes LHR 15ES, I would definitely consider this new offering and do research between it and the other polishers offered at Adams. Based on what I've read, the company has dedicated a lot of time to giving people another viable option and this polisher has some nice features. As someone stated, it bridges the gap. I think this is a good middle price point in the line up. Makes business sense to me.

If not, what about the use of suede style towels?

Sort of curious would there be no way to soak the microfiber towel in an APC or Microfiber Revitalizer solution immediately after wiping a panel to save it from being trashed?

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I bought one the last time they brought them back but to be honest I haven't used it yet. I remember one of the first videos I watched where Dylan was washing a black Camaro vert and the mitt looked YUGE! I don't think the version I have is near that large.

Same here. Thanks Dylan!

Three weeks is about what I have heard. It is just a shine boosting product with minimal protection and longevity. Some people apply it before the LSP. IIRC it really makes little difference on how long it lasts.

Based on what I am seeing, there are places you can go to have anti rust coatings or oils applied. I would definitely look into that if it were me. Not sure what else to recommend. You definitely need to keep the underside of the vehicle cleaned and that essentially takes water pressure. Rinseless wash cannot do much there unless you can raise the car and take a lot of grimey one use towels and spend a lot of time going over all the nooks and crannies there. Time it takes to do that makes it less than ideal. Undercarriage spray and a fender brush and APC can help to some extent in the wheel wells as the Invisible UC spray will provide some resistance to build up.

Are you in DC? You don't have any coin ops near your location? That would be the way to go. We really don't deal with salt in Georgia so my advice is limited there. Maybe someone else in your area or who has experience with having to keep salt off can chime in. Wondering if similar to protecting paint you could somehow protect the undercarriage against salt. Seems there would be a way,, but again I have no experience there.

Shane glad to know we could help. I really think all these polishers have their place the way I look at it. Each has a niche or something it does better than another. If you have the means, I say go for it. The typical Adams customer probably gets by without a polisher. But if you are on the Forum, you are probably more insane about how you care for your car. The level at which you can maintain a vehicle is substantially higher these days than it ever was 5-10 years ago. These polishers are a huge part of that.

Most definitely!

Yes please

I had a feeling Dylan might chime in

Shane, You should not notice any difference in what those two polishers do on the finish. They both will get you to near perfect really quickly and easily. I think the Rupes 15 would definitely be the way to go. It is similar to the Cyclo in that it is super smooth. But it will probably correct faster in most cases. I have both the Cyclo and the MK I Rupes 15. They compliment each other well. Both really easy to use. Rupes does have a decent edge in correction speed and ease of maneuvering although the Cyclo can get into tight spaces turned sideways.

Worked good for me on some standard tires on my old sedan. I think it might be tough to use on lower profile tires without hitting the rim. But it is pretty soft so it might not cause an issue. I will echo what others have stated a shorter bristle version would be awesome.

Hey man no worries. As a fellow black car owner I have definitely seen my share of etched paint. Sometimes all you can do is be safe and knock it down as best you can. The Flex helped me a lot on my 2000 Ls, but if you look real close there are blemishes even the Flex couldn't completely remove. Sits outside 24/7. Even if you have that spot in your paint, there are tons of cars out there waaayyyy worse. Just have fun with the Correcting process and protect the hell out of the paint and be vigilant to remove any crap ASAP because time is the enemy there.

You guys might want to look at using the 4" pads with a cordless drill, in essence a mini buffer. If that doesn't work then yeah it might be something for a pro to wet sand or use more cut.

No need to clay again. When you say 8-10 times is that like 8-10 rows/columns for each direction? Or are you saying you went up and down and side to side across the entire section that many times? I guess an analogy would be akin to cutting your lawn. Did you cut the entire lawn in one direction once, then cut the whole yard in another direction once then do that 7-9 more times? Or are you saying you walked the length and width of the lawn 8-10 times total? If you did the entire section of paint 8-10 times in both directions the polish would have likely become ineffective 1/4 of the way through. Did you notice when the Polish began to look greasy?

And just to clarify what I mean by several passes, I am saying do multiple passes usually alternating vertical and horizontal going each direction twice or until the Polish flashes. This should be in a 2x2 section. Remove with a microfiber towel. Inspect. Repeat if necessary after applying another couple of drops of polish. When using the mf pad, you need to make sure you really load the fibers up pretty good with polish and also brush the pad out when it gets matted after the passes. I also prime the pad with DS to assist in re activating the polish lodged in the pad. The foam pads only need about two or three dime sized drops.

You may want to go with several passes using the microfiber pad and Correcting Polish. Then move to the Finishing Polish and white foam. Do not use sealant until you have achieved the results you desire. How many directional passes did you do with the Correcting Polish? And did you use slow movement?

Depending on the polisher and the arm speed and the actual polishes you might need several passes. It is ideal to use slooowwww arm movement and make sure the Paint Correcting Polish flashes. Then follow with the Finishing Polish as well. If you are working with a PC it might take longer than if you were using a more powerful machine.