Junior

Washed a customers truck today and even after extreme soaking of bird bombs using RW, a few of them just refused to come off the paint. Actually many more than a few. I'd say the Rinseless and hose pressure rinse off probably got only half of them. These were the bird bombs with the berry seeds so it has tiny particles of grit. And those damn things stick like friggin magnets to the paint. Enter APC diluted 1:1. Problem solved!!! After the presoak with RW and the full wash using a foam gun, the remaining offenders were treated with a few blasts of the APC and then after about 15-20 seconds, I was able to use the wash mitt to gently escort them off the paint. I,felt like saying Haste la vista mofos, you're TERMINATED! It's amazing how effective this method is. I've never used it before because I typically have been able to dispose of them using Rinseless. APC works like magic for these types of bird bombs. Just thought I'd share this as it seems bird bomb season is upon many of us.

Thanks Dan. I put it on the beater so I'll probably play around with it. There are a couple of places where it is a bit uneven, which I don't really care because I sort of threw it on there, but I'll probably use those areas to see how things go with more application steps. Down the line. Thanks again.

I don't think I've seen anyone ask this, but maybe I missed it. Anyway, I am wondering what the process should be to go back over previously coated trim with a new layer of trim coating. Let's just say that 6 months goes by and it looks like the coating is starting to lose some of its luster. Could we do a coating prep application after a wash and then go to applying more TC? Or would we need to go through all steps again? Or does Ceramic boost potentially come into play at all? I know the coating has only been out for a little bit, but figured this will come up at some point. My truck has been coated for close to two months now and it looks just as good as it did day 1.

Yeah I would probably pick up a gallon, I'm sort of nostalgic.

From what I saw it will only be made available in the 16 oz bottles

Thanks for the input Scott. I might just give that a shot!

Dan I have some pics of the places I polished before and after. But not of the damage specifically. I'll post the results and see if I can get a pic showing what happened. It removed paint. But I am not worried about it. This is my beater and I just use it to practice on:) I just wanted to let folks know to be careful. I probably removed it a little too rapidly. Next time, I might soak it with some RW or just plain old water. And also remove it slower.

I was using the orange tape from a few years back. I have used it a number of times with no issue on several other vehicles.

So I decided to detail the door jambs on my 1997 Ford Explorer. Broke out the Mini and PCP and orange pad along with BG and LPS. It made a HUGE difference. However, in removing the detail tape, paint got removed in a couple of spots. I guess when dealing with 20 year old paint, you really need the be careful using tape. Just wanted to make folks aware.

Eric I thought about this a little bit after posting. I doubt there is any reason to use boost with the ceramic trim coating. I think the primary reason they use it on paint and wheels is to smooth out the surface. I could be wrong, but I am thinking if they wanted us to use it they would include it in the kit. Not saying we couldn't use it, but probably not much benefit for trim. Like you I'll wait for the Adams team to speak on it.

I wondered about this as well

It's all just up to the individual. You will see people who look at cost and that's the main reason they use RW diluted and others who say the DS works perfectly for them so they really like the RTU ability it gives. Hell you can even use Adams CS. There are a ton of methods it's just down to user pref. I primarily use the detail spray but I have used a foamy mitt with CS soaked in it.

Is it okay to use glass cleaner after using the BG? I assume the answer is yes, but Adam talks about using just a clean mf towel.

Oh yeah and this s probably something you already know, but do a section with the least aggresive method first. I have done just the finishing polish on my car where it had minor swirls and it came out excellent. Use what you do on the first section to get it where you want it to determine what you do on the remaining sections. Hope that makes sense. Nothing would be worse than doing the whole vehicle with one or two steps to realize you needed to add an additional one. Then you gotta go section by section all over again.

Yeppers

Glad I saw this post. One thing I will probably do is treat my dash with the L con prior to using the cleaner. Might even lay a towel down to ensure what you mentioned cannot happen.

I appreciate all of y'all and everything you guys do! Makes doing business with this company a no brainer.

I think Shane gave you some pretty good advice. Make sure you pick up a pad brush too. Those are crucial to keeping buildup out of the pads as you correct. I don't actually own either of those machines, but they are pretty much designed to offer similar performance and lower vibration operation like the Rupes. So yes they will be very novice and user friendly. There are several really good videos in the Forum and if you check out Adams on YouTube that will pretty much give you insight into how to polish with these products. If you have never polished before, I would give you this advice: 1) Make sure you strip wash the vehicle and clay the surface (assuming it is rough) to prep it before you polish. 2) Use a few drops of the Polish on foam pads to start on the first section and as you go, you can use less, but reactivate it with DS. Spread the Polish across the panel some before you even hit the trigger on your polisher. 3) Don't put too much pressure on the polisher. Use really just the natural weight of your arm. As I understand it, these polishers really don't need a lot of pressure. They need to be level on the surface but pretty much do all the work for you. 4) Slow arm movements are better. Don't wip the polisher back and forth. Move slow and steady across the section (2' x 2') in a side to side and up and down pattern. Hope this helps and good luck with whatever decision you make. . .

I just got off the phone,with Ryan at Adams and I must say he is great to work with! I have spoken to Ben a few times and have always been overly impressed. Ryan fits right in. Super guy, very helpful and as usual went above and beyond. He made good on a promise from Dan that I never collected on from close to a year ago. I am always amazed at how helpful the Adams team is. I should know by now they will always exceed my expectations. Kudos Ryan! Keep up the excellent work!!!

When I grow up I want to be like you sir

I did an engine bay today without using a hose. The way I went about it was to use a wash bucket with about 1 ounce of car shampoo for 2 gallons of warm soapy water. I sprayed in about 20 shots of APC into the soap bucket as well. Then, using a microfiber utility towel and a trim and lug nut brush I used the soapy water and a few sprays of APC on the towel or the brush to clean many of the dusty areas of the engine bay. I rung the towel out a bit so that water wasn't going everywhere too. With the brush, I'd shoot a few sprays into it after dipping it in the soapy water and then give it a shake or two to lessen the amount of water. I also went back to the bucket frequently to agitate the gunk off the brush or towel using the grit guard. And, I rung the towel out to almost dry a few times to go over the big areas to essentially dry them to an extent. Most just air dried though. Then I used VRT and In and Out. I think it turned out well. Maybe this method would work for you too and you could even throw in some Rinseless if you are doing any painted or metal areas.

You can probably dilute GC but it's likely it will behave a little differently. I asked that same question a while back and the consensus was that it really isn't the best idea. As for the Carpet and Upholstery cleaner I think that would be one you wouldn't notice much difference with. Hopefully someone can chime in on this. I haven't diluted that one either, but I think it would work fine as long as you don't dilute it by more than 50:50.

The two seem to interact well from my experience but glass seems to be a very sensitive surface in some cases. I would def clay the glass when you go to reapply. It's super easy to do and give the sealant the best surface to adhere to.

Adam and others are just trying to provide options for those experiencing issues. This problem some people are seeing doesn't appear to be a universal issue. For many people it is working just fine. I can say for certain I have had pretty good results with it on older vehicles. On my newer car, it doesn't seem to work well, but I am not sure anything will without some tweaks to my routine. I am going to go with Adams suggestion of using BG on it to see if that helps. I think my newer car has some off gassing film build up on the inside and that's why I am not getting it 100% clear.

Thanks Dano