Junior

Dear. 7 lb. 8 oz.

The suspense is killin me

Yeah I wish it were possible to just "one step" the washing process. So that is where my head went. Probably not something Adams would actually develop kowing that it probably wouldnt deliver what they consider truly clean paint etc. Maybe a foam gun sprayable all surface protectant for after the wash?

Rinseless foam gun soap. Rinse the car, foam it with the rinseless foam soap, use the mitt as per usual to clean the car, foam it again and walk away. Or if the car is only dusty, foam it and walk away.

A buddy of mine had one a while back. It was a beast. At the time, it was probably the most bang for the buck you could get from GM.

Yep just saw that. I guess my point would still be to make sure you are checking the pad sooner than every panel. It doesnt take long for the fibers to get very compressed and flat. The condition of the paint probably plays a role as well. When you are removing years of build up and garbage from the surface it has to go somewhere.

I hope you can take my advice even though I do not have a Goat like Dan and Chris.

Phil, I think if you hit the towels with MR or APC as a pretreat like mentioned and use the MR for the wash your towels will come out really clean. Before when i was using regular liquid detergent mine seemed to stay pink with DS or whatever else was staining them. But now I rarely pretreat any towels and just using MR gets them pretty clean. I also switched from cold to warm water in the cycle. If you are going to presoak, I think a few ounces of either will be plenty for a couple of towels in the bottom of a bucket with maybe 20-40oz of warm water.

Microfiber has more cutting power. Do you have a pad brush? Hopefully so because with the mf pads you will need to brush them out after a bit. The fibers can get pretty matted. I think once that happens you will loose the effectiveness.

And they both smell great too. Not sure which one I like better from that perspective.

Waterless is a product with no added gloss or protection. It will bring the paint to a just washed appearance and very clean. Rinseless has wax so it adds some gloss and slight protection. I think RTU WW also has some antistatic properties. I use Rinseless a lot more because like Mr Bobby stated it is very slick and versatile. I think it is much safer on a dirtier car. I use RTU WW for wipe downs after correcting to remove residue and bring it to a bare surface ready for some protection and if the car is only lightly dusty. Both are great, but just depends on the purpose.

Used the new Foam Gun for the first time today. Very impressed. I used the recommended metering tip and it put out an abundant amount of foam. The nozzle has a very good spray pattern as well. I am very happy with this gun. I used it to reload the suds in my bucket and to foam the paint when claying the vehicle it works great for those things. Perfect execution of another excellent detailing product release Team Adams! Now when is the coating and the water activated sealant coming out?

APC is some good stuff man. I dilute mine out of the gallon and it lasts a pretty long time. It will clean your tires and fender wells very easily at 1:1.

I think the waffle weave towels would work for that. I guess it depends on how well they soak up the RW. I know what you mean with the nice double soft towels. I've killed enough single soft twels and try to stay away from really dirty rinseless washing using the double soft. Typically I use the borderless blues. I guess the benefit to using a white towel is you see exactly what you are picking up easier.

Interesting subject. I have stored my rinseless for about two weeks and used it, but was afraid to go much longer on it. Like Mr Bobby, I did notice a slight change in the smell. Who knows if it was the tap water or possibly the rinseless reacting to whatever was in the bucket prior. It did seem to perform just the same regardless. Maybe I should go for distilled water next time.

Ryan, LPS shines up pretty nice. Adam even said you can put the BG on prior to sealant. Some hand polishing might be necessary yes. Do you have any Revive? That is a good polish for minor imperfections by hand.

What type of dish soap? Please dont say Palmolive Oxy clean.

Washed my DD. Hooked up the bumper and passenger side rear door and quarter using the Cyclo. Massive improvement. Need to do the driver side some time this week. That will pretty much take care of the entire car as far as what has been corrected. It has been a work in progress.

You really cannot go wrong with either. I have all three and I used the Flex when the PC wasnt putting a dent in the swirls on my paint. But now I use the Cyclo all the time. Havent used the Flex in quite some time. Cyclo corrects pretty much twice as good as the PC anyway. Which makes sense because it has about twice the throw. The difference between the Flex and Cyclo I would say is nowhere near like the capability difference between Cyclo and PC. To me, the only thing the Flex has over the Cyclo would be correcting ability. That and you are dealing with double the pads with the Cyclo. The Cyclo is probably better made, definitely smoother, easier to use tool, and it will get into tighter places. So my vote is probably Cyclo.

1) I like correcting and protecting the paint. It is such an amazing 180 degree turn in many cases. I am with you on the hood and the detail spray as well. A couple of recent purchases have made me start to rethink the answer to this. Rinseless Wash is so awesome and so is the Adams Glass Cleaner when used with the glass towels. 2) As for the areas of the car yeah the hood and probably the tires and wheels because they have such a big turn around as well. I am all about the results and difference we can make.

And I would probably dilute it 2:1 water to vinegar at a minimum. Then maybe try one area by dampening a microfiber cloth with the vinegar and allowing it to sit on the spots for a minute. Then wipe the paint with some rinseless wash with a separate mf towel. If that doesnt seem like something you are comfortable with, I agree with claying and/or using Revive. If none of that works, time to break out a machine. Just be mindful to do this on a cool surface and most methods to remove the spots will probably result in the need to reapply wax etc.

Did I see somewhere that people sometimes use diluted vinegar to kill water spots? Although if thats an approved method I assume it will remove LSPs as well so you need to reapply wax etc.

Yeah buddy! I am not telling anyone on here anything they dont already know, its really more for you guys to know I really appreciate everything yall do. I will shut up now and let yall get back to kicking A$$ and being awesome! After all its Miller time or in your case probably a cool beer I have never even heard of

Can I set up a Tab with Adams? I saw one comment comparing this to a drug addiction. I feel like I may be a buried alive candidate now. Lol

I have to say once again Adams has done a great job making me feel like a valued customer. First off, I made a mistake on one of my orders a few weeks back. Matt did a great job of taking care of my problem and corresponding very quickly. I have had similar needs from a competitor that shall remain nameless and it took a week to get things sorted. Not with Adams, they have always done a tremendous job with any need I have had. And I really thought the 15 Year Sales and Flash Sales were so cool! Never caught a Flash Sale before but caught the last one a week ago! I really got hooked up with some great deals. I really appreciate what Matt, Ashley, Dylan, Ben and the main man AP have done to look out for their customers. I always like to give credit where credit is due. You guys ROCK!!!! Thanks so much and keep up the awesome work!