Ricky Bobby

Throwing out a feeler out there if anyone needs: - I have some extra spray heads (2) that I can part with, black sprayer, newest style, non-rubberized trigger. PM me if you need one I can double check my shelf for what I have (SPOKEN FOR TO NORTON) I am also looking for the following: Thanks ArmyAcadia09 for my parcel!

I know I've mentioned this before but if mixing your own 1:16 Waterless with the Rinseless product, don't be a cheapskate, mix it with distilled water so the product you make is as clean and free of minerals.

I'm the same way, if I clay glass I just break a big enough piece to do it then toss it, ton of contaminants on glass. I usually will clay my car and my wife's car (regularly clayed so well maintained) twice a year, usually whatever piece I use after doing both cars gets tossed. I would use a piece about 75g or so for both cars, so in the Adam's 200g kit, I'd use 75g once on each car, and a 50 g piece once, maybe twice on glass. One Adam's clay bar kit gets me through about year and a half of claying.

Just be sure to clean off the MF pad face as the fibers need to be fluffed and clear to do their job, the pads get gummed up quicker than foam pads. Either: 1) After each section, if you have air compressor just take blowgun and blow out the face of the pad (best method) 2) If you don't have air compressor, use the Pad Brush on speed 1 and go over the face of the pad, or: 3) Take a cheapie microfiber turn it on speed 1 or low speed and cover the face of the pad with it and let the polisher jiggle, it actually works believe it or not

Basically its like an unwritten code that we all know some products that Adam's makes might be made by other companies, but we don't start a "Adams XXXXX vs. Company S's XXX" thread because thats not what its for. I'll admit my shelf is not completely Adam's products A to Z, but I support and discuss the products I've used and continue using, and praise them dutifully. I will allude to sometimes wanting to try Adam's XXXXX product, but sometimes you want to use up what you have first, and there's no harm in that. I don't generally drop names of other products I use in the forums here bc this is an Adam's support place. I've PM'ed members and members have pm'ed me and we have had privated discussions through PM about non-adam's stuff, I'd suggest to do the same and that way you adhere to the rules etc. If you want a lot of non-Adam's specific advice there is quite a big forum that will pop up on a google search that gives a ton of different product reviews, impressions, etc threads as they are non-brand specific. Or do what I do if I have a non-Adam's question, email phil@detailersdomain (An authorized Adam's dealer) and ask him about non-Adam's products and he can help you out.

Me as well. I collect enough dirty towels to do a full load, then wash them. A pre wash spritz of apc works well a few mins before I toss them in, but they always come out fine in the wash even after sitting in the bin for weeks.

I've been storing it in a plastic Baggie for 10 years now no mildew. Squeeze most air out, and mist it with detail spray so it doesn't dry out. I also keep it in the plastic tub the old Adams clay came in for a double seal. You replace it when it's visually dirty, no necessary time frame for wear and tear lol it's not brakes.

If your towels aren't getting slightly dyed after washing you aren't using them enough. As long as you clean them well (I use the equivalent of MFR&B in my washing machine) they will come out clean and perfectly new again but a slight stain or discoloration from color bleed is purely cosmetic. I have some blue some yellow some green and other color towels and I'm not going to do a white towel separately just bc i am wary to see any discoloration. My great white is basically a great grey by now lol

I second the above. I just posted about an eta on the boulder blonde wheel brushes bc they are off the site. If anything I would leave back ordered items on the site so one could order it and get their place "in queue", then either have option to put order on hold until it's back in stock or just dispatch rest of order first. OP not sure where you are located but I use a MF applicator which is basically an MF towel wrapped around a small sponge and it should work great if you'd like to try one. I have probably 4 on my shelf just send me a couple bucks for shipping I could send you one if you need a good applicator for seats and plastic surfaces while the red ones are out of stock

I would definitely make sure to put a coat of sealant on the wheels after using Deep Wheel Cleaner. See my other thread about using DWC often, for my normal maintenance washes I prob only need to deep clean my wheels 2-3 times a year and I seal them afterwards for tight beading and protection.

I will still buy gallons as I can't get over the awesome smell, and sometimes you like a little extra gloss with your QD as opposed to the straight clean/shine properties of Waterless.

I'll let Adam confirm but when Dylan helped release rinseless he did say Waterless would be eventually discontinued since at 1:16 dilution Rinseless makes a comparable Waterless wash/QD product as the current product.

Edit: I meant don't rename quick sealant to be for wheels only!

Don't rename quick sealant! I would actually think about removing the word "quick" from the title, as it implies the product isn't as long lasting of a coat giving months of protection as implies. Maybe "Tough Multi Surface Spray Sealant" to give the impression of a durable coating which will last a long time on many surfaces, paint wheels glass etc! I second the notion to rename DWC to include the iron remover on paint, glass etc. Perhaps "Deep Decontamination Remover"?

I got the deep tire scrub brush and the fender brush (which I also use on tires) and love them both and was going to get a boulder blonde brush on my next order to complete the set, how far out are they on eta? Thanks guys!

I gotta say, I love the fact that Adam himself is chiming in more often here

A little bit of DWC, with a Boar's hair lug nut brush in between the crevices on the emblem will help to dissolve the iron and contaminants you cant get to with a mitt, and you'll be able to agitate the grit out of there with the Boars hair brush. Problem solved.

I guess for now everyone needs to pop the Gamma Seal lid on their buckets and use the Bucket caddy as a rolling seat!

Thank you guys for just saving me a ton of money! I have about 2 cars worth of application in a bottle of the "overseas brand" deep wheel cleaner on my shelf, one bottle lasted me a year as I only used it twice. I will be ordering a bottle of DWC from Adam's on my next order, I was just feeling the waters to see how many are like me, and to gauge my need for a gallon of the Adams DWC. Based on my use (once in Spring, once in Fall, and maybe once during winter) the 16 oz. DWC bottle will get me through a years worth of cleaning my wife's Toyota Rav4 wheels and my X5's wheels. I use Car Shampoo in a sudsy bucket with a sponge and mitt to get them clean for all the rest of the year, and obviously would seal them after using a deep cleaner but something like Quick Sealant is so easy to use on wheels once every month or two application in the warm season works great to keep them shiny and protected! Thanks for the input guys, I was suspecting that I wasn't the only one deep cleaning wheels with every weekly wash! However, the wheel woolies and the Boulder Blonde brush, those may be some tools I could use weekly on the wheels as well! (already have the Lug nut brush)

Where do you live? I'd get a bottle of MFR&B from an Adam's distributor if I were you. One 36oz bottle is enough for like 36 loads of MF towels (1 ounce per normal sized load)

Just wondering do you guys use Deep Wheel Cleaner each time you wash? I usually "deep clean" only once every couple months or so, and use just my regular soapy mitt/sponge/brushes for the wheels on my normal weekly washes. My wheels are big enough and spokes wide enough I can easily get to the barrels with mitt as well, so they always come out awesome with a bucket of Car Shampoo. Sometimes I like to use DWC or equivalent every few months just to get those iron particles that you dont get out with a soapy mitt, but for the most part, I haven't seen the need to DWC my wheels every time I wash my cars. Thoughts? It figures that DWC gallons are on backorder right now, and I'm getting ready for some spring cleaning (which will include a nice DWC session obviously after the winter we've had!)

Adam great decision IMO, the Cyclo is really 2 polishers in one, because if I'm correct you can use one of the heads on the Cyclo as a 4" polisher to get into the tight areas? I have not purchased one yet as I have a PC 7424 OG which is still running strong after 10 years, but if I do need a new tool the Cyclo is what I would purchase. Made, designed, engineered and warrantied in USA. Hell yes!

Using the wipe down with APC method really does work to soak in the pores of plastic and pull out the oxidation. Then you're just protecting the refreshed plastic, which SVRT does well. Only thing the heat gun does is instead of reaching in the pores of the plastic and pulling oxidation into your towel, it burns it off with really high heat. The SVRT step is still needed because then you need to protect that fresh surface. Which would you prefer, to burn something off your car or scrub/wipe it off?

TBH I start to see less and less of a use for Detail Spray in my regimen. Rinseless diluted to waterless ratio is great to spritz down grimy areas before a mitt touches it when doing your normal 2 bucket wash. I use Waterless as a cleaner when drying the car for cleaning up the door jambs, I find just spritzing the jambs with Waterless (Rinseless diluted 1:16) and wiping dry helps lift the contaminants off and leaves a slick, cleaned surface. I have also tested Waterless as a spritzing drying agent like Detail Spray is recommended, and to be honest I thought it worked just as good, definitely dried just as well as when I use my (current, on last bottle) V1 Detail Spray as drying agent, no streaks, and I like the lubricity factor in case there is a stray particle on the surface it will get absorbed into the Waterless, then sucked up into my drying towel. I definitely have used Waterless (which is now Rinseless 1:16 dilution with water) as a clay lube before, actually got the idea from an Adam's seminar from THE MAN himself, back at Detailers Domain in NJ 2 years ago. I also use a 1/2 oz. or so of Rinseless in my wash bucket just to keep the water nice and slick and to aid when washing. I'm sure I'll still buy my refill gallons of Detail Spray, but to be honest the Rinseless/Waterless product really makes 3 or 4 product uses in just one bottle, pretty amazing.

I love Adams Glass Cleaner. Properly clayed glass first is key. I don't have Glass specific towels, I use my cheapo big box special towels for cleaning glass, the low nap enables them to keep streaks to a minimum, and there is enough nap in the towel to take dirt into the towel and not smear it. If doing inside and outside glass, 2 towels is necessary, one for inside and one for outside. Less product is more. Too many people soak their windows down when cleaning, and all they are doing is wiping product and getting the towel saturated, which will not result in a perfect streak free finish. Try a low nap (300 gsm, readily available in bulk packs at big box) on the interior glass, you may be surprised at how well it works with the glass cleaner. I have ZERO issues with grabbing on the interior, streaking on the inside or outside, with either of my cars using Adams Glass cleaner, big box store cheapo towels, and properly clayed glass, and both cars have tinted windows as well. Hope that helps.