mtnbiker326

536 HP & 478 lbs-ft TQ

Here is a quick update. I put my Kwazar sprayer head on my 16 oz empty bottles and it fits great. It should work properly (if the tube is cut down). Since I wasn't able to test that, it didn't have full spray on the pull but the push was 100% while upside down. Granted I am not going to use my sprayer upside down, but it is the only way to test the spray without cutting down the straw. No leaks though

I agree. I found that I could source their older stuff from Eric at Thompson Racing. http://stores.shopthompsonracing.com/

Thank you all for your input. I was just wondering as some respected detailers I have heard of, talk about the "knobby" mitts and I wanted to hear from the horses mouth (you all) what the consensus is on these. I, for one, LOVE the synthetic pads and will be looking at sourcing an Adam's wool mitt here soon.

If that is the case, then logic dictates that the screw on theads should be the same for the sprayer head and thus they should fit and hopefully seal.

Congrats on the new truck!

Hello Adam's forum... I have a question. What are the reasons why you would choose the wool mitt over a knobby hand mitt. (for the sole purpose of washing the top (and only the top) 1/2 of the car? I am referencing Adam's wool mitt against any knobby mitt, like the one pictured below. I know the quality will be better, but as far as application goes for cleaning the top 1/2 of the car, what are the real differences or advantages of the wool over the knobby?

When you put it that way, my logic... Just went out the window But I also agree with Mitch below... If it is 2-3 bucks more expensive... just buy the bigger ones and fill it up half way. No worries. Unless.... you can't fit the larger bottle in the smaller areas of engine bays or wheel wells. In that case, there is still a case for the .5 liter units here. Each has its own job. Why have a carpet brush and a leather/interior brush. Two different brushes (granted different fibers and softness) but that is it. Just like the size of these two bottles. One for each type of job. I personally am ordering a few to try and am still keeping my close to 10 empty 16oz bottles I bought from Adams as backups and for those hard to reach areas. (and for house work)

I would also recommend (if possible) for them to be treated with microfiber revitalizer (interior of glove for human sweat for spot treatment) and then LIC and LC.

If you are thinking about it, I would clean and clay the glass. Then apply a thin layer of quick sealant as it is optically clear. If you want more shine, I would us glaze as well on top of quick sealant. (or on a lower protection side, you can just use glass cleaner and glass sealant)

To me... Yes.

Right. I just thought it was funny that I P A is used here to mean Alcohol (of the Isopropyl type) vs drinkable type. LOL

I would agree with the updating of the picture. I have to say that yes, even in a gallon purchased less than a month ago, it is still opaque. Works 110% though No worries.

Happy Birthday Nick!!! Gotta love another March birthday detailer

The only logical answer I can see on this one is that Adam's marketing needed to test the system first with a few sprayers to change out and deliver a solution for those complaining about the standard issue 16oz bottles now (according to Adam on video). Using the 36oz bottles NOW helps boost Gallon sales in the near future as well as support the community for the need of a sprayer that can put more product down quicker and is more durable. Thus the 33oz/1liter sprayer to hold more product (cause you are going to use more, hypothetically). That being said, I am sure the 1/2 liter is not too far off from being offered. If I were marketing, I would offer it. However, trial runs of a new product for actual supply chain, sales and fusibility need to be worked out and checked before more products should be introduced. In other words, if these sell WELL (or at least meet the goals intended for this product), you can bet your bottom dollar that the 1/2 liter will be available VERY soon.

Thank you Michael for all the information. This is much appreciated. Also, on a funny note, IP A = beer too

Right... I was being sarcastic... I just wanted to know what the pressure needs to be to take the layers off (without grinding anything into paint or pressing too hard). Lets say trying to rub dried Americana on the paint, off as ... REALLY hard rubbing. Do I need to rub that hard?

Chris, With Step 7, do I need to "grind" the Alcohol into the layers of protection (ex. Full Face Melter) in order to get all 3 layers up at once? If not, do I need to go over each panel a few times with the Alcohol and microfiber in order to slowly remove each layer one at a time? Thanks for the helpful process list above

I hate to bring this thread back from the dead... BUT... What are the steps for a proper Isopropyl Alcohol "stripwash"?

Any update?

The point some have made on this subject, it sounds like... is ... yes the Cyclo is the tool you need. I will however state... that being a little bit more budget friendly, the PC is there. What I mean by this is... RIGHT NOW, if on a budget, you will be happy saving money and picking up the PC. HOWEVER it will take longer (more passes and more product (novice learning) typically) to do that "one difficult job" and then routine maintenance. After you do those jobs and find that you still need to do some heavier correcting over your Nissan, the Cyclo will be what you will want to step up to. So, if you are buying for longevity reasons (with more budget in mind), I would definitely go with the Cyclo and not look back. That way you have a single, all-around great tool that will serve you for years and Years and YEARS.

I also vote Cyclo. My first polisher usage was a buddies Cyclo and it did WONDERS. Easy to use, learn, support, repair, etc. How can you not go with a product that allows for so much versatility as well as peace of mind (and USA made). You can use foam pads on your wife's car and then microfiber on your car. The PC is a good first tool as well, but it doesn't cut as much as the Cyclo. If you were just doing your wife's car (like others have said) get the PC only. If you are buying ONE tool for ALL uses, Cyclo is the WAY TO GO. The cyclo cuts into my BMW's HARD clear nicely with the microfiber and works on my jeep's clear coat failure with ease (with the foam pads). Best start up tool and it will still allow you to "grow into it" more than the PC would.

More time for more jeep cleaning will come