The Guz

Thanks. Thanks. Glad you enjoyed the write up.

I just posted this today from a review I did a few weeks ago on the application of the paint coating, spray coating and ceramic boost. Hopefully this helps. This is what I would recommend 1. Skip the strip wash. You would be fine with just the regular shampoo as the Zaino will be removed during the decon process and polishing. 2. Iron Remover - This is good to do prior to claying to remove any ferrous material and help loosen some contaminants. Also good to use as part of your decon wash to maintain the coating after a few months. 3. Clay - This is good as it will remove the bonded contaminants from the paint. 4. Correction - Hard to say what is needed without physically seeing the paint. A test spot would be the best thing to do with say the polish and you can adjust from there. The paint does not have to be 100% perfect before coating it. 5. Surface Prep - This is key as you want to remove any residual polishing oils prior to coating the paint. Multiple towels are good as they will load up with polish oil residue. 6. Ceramic Paint Coating - Application is straight forward once you start using it. I would recommend using two towels to wipe of the coating. One to do the heavy lifting and the other for a final pass to remove any remaining product. Having multiple towels is a must in my experience with coatings over the years of using them. I prefer low nap and low plush towels rather than the plush high GSM towels. 7. I would stick with ceramic boost and the Ceramic waterless wash. Use the ceramic waterless wash as a drying aid after a wash and then use Ceramic Boost every 4-6 weeks after you dry the paint. Every 4-6 months I would recommend a chemical decontamination wash to keep your coating as contaminant free as possible.

Water beading and water behavior feedback Ceramic Boost UV Paint Coating UV Spray Coating This one is a long one so here are the highlight points. Slickness test 1:56 Water Behavior 3:50 Final thoughts 11:30

I wrote this on another forum and I am going to transfer it here. Products: Adams UV Ceramic Paint Coating Adams UV Ceramic Spray Coating Adams Ceramic Boost Adams UV Light Short description of each product Ceramic Boost is the maintenance product for the coatings. SiO2 infused Glazed Almond Scent 3-6 months protection Can be used on paint, chrome, plastic, wheels and glass. UV Paint Coating is new for 2019 with the UV attribute. Essentially the UV light is used to see where the coating has been applied. Adams calls it their patent pending ceramic glow technology. 9H 5+ years protection 50ml does 2 full sized vehicles Can be used on single stage, clear coat, vinyl wraps, trim, bed liners,headlights, tonneau covers, canvas tops, floor mats, plastic trim Temperature application 50 degrees Cure time 12-24 hours Max layers is 3 Can be seen with 395 UV light Does not glow in the dark UV Ceramic Spray Coating has been reformulated with the ceramic glow technology for 2019. Solvent based ceramic spray coating 10-12 month durability Can be used on paint, glass, headlights, tonneau covers, soft tops,chrome, trim, wheels, bed liners Max layers is 3 Can be seen with 395 UV light Does not glow in the dark UV light is used for the coatings. It is 396 NM with 100 LED UV Blacklights. Requires 6 AA batteries. I applied to a silver hood which is my test panel for the product. Prepped with 3D ACA finishing polish and prep wiped with Americana Global Stripper. Application is pretty straight forward. Same technique used for any other coating. This is one where I just spread the product and it can be seen under the light. I divided the hood into three sections. The ceramic boost does not contain the glow technology. So it will not show any change under the light. After pulling the tape back we can see that both the spray and paint coating react to the light. You will notice the darkening effect is more pronounced for the paint coating under the UV light. This is the transition point to the area where Ceramic Boost was applied. From a distance the coated areas are clearly shown with the UV light. Notice the over spray from misting onto the surface. Final thoughts on application: From an application stand point the paint coating is pretty straightforward to use. Easy to spread out and easy to wipe off. Feels slick upon removal. It did take me a few extra passes to have even coverage of the coating. After that I understood how the product behaved at the temperature and humidity I was working with. The spray coating is easy to work with. Simply mist the applicator and spread the product out. I misted on the panel and got a little overspray. This is always a concern and thus using an applicator is the best method to avoid over spray. It does not take long for it to flash for it to be wiped off. The ceramic boost is very easy to work with. Simply wipe and wipe off. An easy product to maintain either of these coatings. In terms of slickness it is ceramic boost, the spray coating and then the paint coating. I was not sure how long the effect under the UV light stays around. But after reading more about the coating it appears that it will be visible under the UV light specked out by Adams. It will not be seen in the daylight or glow at night. Overall it is a good way to see if the coating is applied to an area or the potential of a high spot being left behind. A good coating for anyone worried about those things especially first timers. One thing about Adams is that their products are user friendly. I can not comment on durability just yet. That test will come later. It is an interesting characteristic and kudos to Adams for thinking outside the box to differentiate their coatings. A couple application videos. Part 3 is a little long as it includes the application of the spray coating, ceramic boost and I share my final thoughts on application.

If the trim is in need of restoration then this would be the one you want. If the trim is still relatively new and not faded the regular trim coating will work just fine.

First detail clinic of the year

I won one of the bundles but did not get the main prize. I just need to go and pick it up.

Thanks. The trim on yours should hold up and not need the trim restorer as long as you use the ceramic spray often.

Thank you. Thank you. Thank you. Glad you enjoyed the write up. Thank you. The trim does look good a day later after a couple coats.

Product: Adams Ceramic Black Trim Restorer Description: I picked this up at the local cars and coffee at the Anaheim location. I had a front cowl that I picked up at a local salvage yard that I ended up using as it is a two piece design rather than a one piece design. It is a better design and allows for easier replacement of the cabin filter. This ceramic trim restorer does two things with one product. It restores using the black dye while offering protection of a ceramic coating. The trim piece was cleaned and prepped prior to application. Hard to capture the true condition of the trim. During the restoration process Even used it on this plastic push pin that was pretty faded by the So Cal sun over the last 20 years. After. Much better The trim after the application is black and has life after two coats of product. The ceramic black trim restorer did a good job at restoring this trim piece. I will see how it holds up over the next few months. Application is straight forward. I would recommend wearing gloves to not get the dye on the hands. If you have older trim that needs some restoration this will work. The plastic trim may need multiple applications. If the trim is newer then I would stick with the regular ceramic trim coating. There is rubber on this trim price and I found that it can be streaky if used on rubber. It absorbs differently into the rubber than plastic. Wiping the rubber helps to even out the coating applied to rubber.

The event was pretty dead. Nobody showed up for cars & coffee. They did offer 20% off and raffle entries for every $20 spent.

Check with your installer. Some of their coatings require wet sanding.

Coatings are not that thick. A light polish on a polishing pad will remove it. I had no issues removing the UV paint coating or UV spray coating with a medium to fine cut polish on a polishing pad. The coating had cured for about a week.. You will notice a color change of the paint and you should get the squeaky feel you typically get from polishing.

Take it back and have them fix it. I went through this same thing and the tint shop admitted that their initial work was garbage and they retinted all the windows which came out better the second time at no charge.

Polishing will completely remove any coating regardless as it is abrading it off the surface. The only one that I know of that needs to be sanded off is GTechniq Crystal Serum (the pro version). But it sounds like he has the typical dealer sealant on it.

Are the lips clear coated? A good way to test is to take a little metal polish and apply it to a small area. If the towel turns black then it is uncoated.

I separate my towels. Anything that touches the paint gets washed in one load, same goes for glass and my miscellaneous towels (wheels, tires, door jams, etc.)

I've been here long enough that I know what lines can be crossed. As long as it's within the forum rules it is fine. But if you are looking for information regarding other products other than Adams then this is not the place for that. This is an Adams forums for Adams products. We all must respect that. Me not believing in a product has nothing to do with violating the rules. As you can see I didn't post any links or said another products name.

Oh I didn't say not to clay. That is you misinterpretation. Clay is indeed an important. For those that think claying is not needed that is utterly is ridiculous. A majority of the contaminants will be removed through and iron remover and claying or a clay alternative (nanoskin, etc.). Modern day sealants are pretty durable. There are plenty of topics covered on various detailing forums about whether or not a strip soap actually strips a sealant. Most of the times they do not work. Does Adams work? Maybe or maybe not. It is just a product that I won't be buying as I don't buy into the strip wash. I understand logic completely as my background is in engineering so no need to question that.

We will agree to disagree. But mechanical decontamination will always remove more over a strip wash. More pads will not be used. Now an iron remover is a different thing. I would do that over a strip wash.

No you do not need the strip wash prior to claying. The polish will remove whatever is on the paint.

That is what I was getting at. Especially with black paint. It doesn't take long for it to get warm or hot.

This plays a factor You were working outside?

I never posted a finished photo out in the sun of the Impala. 2015 Impala corrected and coated back in July 2002 Corvette corrected and coated back in July as well not long after the Impala.