TR6speed

I guess I am old school and have stuck with the basic wax and wax. I have not tried the ceramic Coating as my car is not a daily driver, but was wondering about the boost. My normal detail procedure is a strip wax, correction polish where and if needed, followed by a complete finish polish, then a coat of Brilliant Glaze and finish with a coat of American. Will the boost be of any benefit, or simply disregard using it?

Thanks for the fast reply. I am retired and the car does spend most of the time in the garage covered, but seeing I was in the beginning stages of the complete detail process I thought maybe now was the time to apply the paint sealant. I will see rain if I need the car and it is raining I will take it out, but if the wife's car is available I would take it first. This detail was to have it ready for an annual Corvette show in St Petersburg, but it has been postponed due to the expected weekend rain-out and all the rain we have had in the past week. that park we were to be at cannot handle cars in the wet condition it is in. So I will still finish the detail and see what happens.

I have just started a complete detail on my 2007 Corvette. I washed it with the Strip Wash dried and then clayed the car. Next I used the paint correction polish to fix a few spots that had some small swirls. My next step is to a full Finishing Polish on the car. I normally will then apply a coat of Brilliant Glaze followed by Amaricana. My question is should I use Paint sealant on the car at all and if so before the glaze and wax or after the glaze and wax?

The only good thing, is there is an annual Corvette show on the water in St Pete coming up and I am going to strip wax wash, clay, paint correction, glaze and finally apply the Americana. So todays was only a small setback for the cruise-in.

Well maybe it is time to hang up my detail bag as I turned 72 a week ago. I was get my 2007 Monterey Red Corvette ready for a local cruise-in later today and after I washed it I decide to apply a coat of Brilliant Glaze. Went to my product cabinet and wanted to get it on before lunch so it could dry good. Went in had lunch a came out and started to remove it and noticed it still had not turned to its normal milky white, Once I started to wipe it I realized it was coming off. I looked and instead of BG, I applied VRT to the entire car. Well I tried waterless wash and while it did remove it a little it was still there. Next a coat of glaze and that removed about 99%, but there were still streaks in the VRT. Next step, a generous application of Detail Spray and some good buffing followed by a second buffing with a fresh micro fiber towel. That finally did the trick. I be I don't do that again.

Thanks both for the info.

I plan to do a complete detail on my 2007 Corvette in the next few weeks and just got a shipment of Adams products in and it included the new strip wash. My question is I was will this new product remove all the old wax, so I can proceed directly to claying the car after the wash?

Again, I would not go more then a day or so without protection, and if you get anything on the car wash it off as soon as possible. But if you look at the pictures of teh black Camaro you cannot belive what it looked like before I started. Againhe owned it for about six months or so. Naver waxed it and washed it with dawn. Sits outside all the time. With the proper procedure and Adams you can fix just about anything.

There is nothing wrong with it being driving with out protection as long as it is not an extended period of time. I also live in Florida, and just finished doing a detail on my grandson's Camaro. It had not been waxed since he bought it about 6 months ago and he had no idea on how to take care of it, so he was using dawn. So needless to say it had no protection on it for some time. See the images below.. I did it in the driveway just last Friday. We washed it, clayed it, machine polished and waxed. I will admit with the humidity in the air it took some time for the polish to flash. But we got it done. But again if you cannot do it all at one time washed it and clay it. Before you start the polish a few days later if it is really dirty wash it again or use the waterless wash or rinseless wash, followed by polishing and then sealant and or wax.

I have not posted here for some time now, but I did the other day and now I see my signature is not showing. I asssume it was a photo that I had out on Photobucket, which I no longer use. How can I either change the signature picture or remove it.

The only saving grace, was it was overcast. Still humid though. When we were finished it looked like I was in the pool with my cloths on.

Failed to mention, he left my house with a bottle of car shampoo, Buttery wax (was not about to give him my Americana), detail spray and a few micro fiber towels.

My grandson bought a 2012 black Camaro a few moths back and really had no idea on how to take care of it as far as washing and waxing. So he asked me if he could stop by and we could clean it up a little. I told him, I don't clean them up a little, but he was more them welcome to come over and we would get it in shape. Pf course if he really only want to clean it up a littel he knew I would still do it. Well he showed up early one morning and we got started. His car is not garaged kept, so it sits out in the elements. I asked him how he washes it and he said with Dawn, one bucket and a w rag then bath towels to dry it. Needless to say I was shaking my head. So we started with good 3 bucket wash, one for the wheels and tires and two for the car. Next a complete clay bar treatment, followed by a paint correction polish and then a paint finishing polish. followed by a good coat of Americana. The final results were great, but of course when using Adams products you would expect it to be.

I have been seeing posts on some of the different Corvette forums abut ceramic coatings being appled and how they protect the paint. Is this anything like the paint sealant Adams has? I have always been a believer in doing my own detailing, but was just wondering is the ceramic coating all that it is made out to be.

I currently have the Porta Cable 7424, but I am thinking about the Rupes 12E. What Pads would I need for it?

I realize these towels have not been available for some time now, but I still have a about 10 of them and I still use them for certain jobs. Just wondering how many still have them and do you use them.

The PCP was a little difficult, but it was the PFP that stayed oily. It was just being pushed around by the towel when using the buffer. By hand it was a little better, but still oily and I had to wipe and buff by hand a few times to get the oily/cloudiness to final go away and give me that deep wet shine. Well tomorrow it get teh Brillent Glaze and then the Americana.

Yes it is warm today and humid. What else is there in Florida. I know that it does slow the process up as I am use to it with the glaze., but I thought I left it long enough to be ready to remove.. oh well live and learn. Thanks for teh reply.

Thanks

It has been a while since I did a complete detail on my 2007 Monterey Red Metallic Corvette. I am 70 years old and retired so the car is not a daily driver, but it does see a fair share of driving. So there is a big Corvette and Chevy show this weekend so I want it to look better then a fast wash and a quick glaze application. So first thing this morning it got a good bath, followed by a complete clay bar treatment. Step on was to look and see what needed the paint correction, so after about 15 minutes of inspecting the paint under a bright light, I found that the hatch area, and hood show some small swirls and minor scratches. So I broke out the PC and a new bottle (first timer using) Paint Correction Polish. I did a complete application to all the upper areas as I found no signs of damage on the lower areas. Next I went to teh Paint finish Polish and did the entire car. What I found however on both products, is one they take a lot longer to flash over, or I was doing something wrong. What I mean by this, is I have always used a trick I learned from Adam a long time ago, and that is to use the porta Cable and a goob microfiber towel to remove the wax, polish and glaze and just finish it with a quick hand buff. I had a lot of trouble removing the correction polish. and I gave up on using the method with teh finish polish. I ended up using a few double soft towels to remove it and then went over the car witha fresh towel and the buffer. Here are a few pictures of the results so far. Tomorrow, will be a good coat of Brillent Glaze and a coat of Americana.

I only know of the wet method. What is the dry method?

Dan, I do have a question. I just got the new Wash and Wax and if you read by post that started this discussion, you see I am impressed with it. Because my car is not a daily driver garage kept and covered many times it is cleaned with just Adams Detail Spray, Waterless Wash or the Rinseless Wash depending on the condition I don't actually do a full wash on it but maybe once a month or so. Would you say I can use this product when I wash it, or should I only use it after a couple of normal washes with the blue shampoo?

I do know it does not replace the H2O G&G. As I stated in my write up the staying power is around 4 weeks of regular use. I am go to see if Adam or one of the other top dogs and answer the question as to is it a replacement for the standard shampoo. But after the initial use I am please with the results. I know I go to a local cruise in every Thursday evening and I also have a few people ask what products I use, but last night It was one after the other and saying how great the shine was on the car.

Seems I read or heard on the video that it is expect to hold a good deal of the durability for up to 4 weeks. Now that did not mention a daily driver subjected to all the normal driving conditions,or if it was for more of a garaged car used a few time a week. I just used it today for the first time an d my car sees the road a few times a week, so I will see how it stands up.

I received my latest shipment the other day and today I used the new Wash & Wax. I was about to apply a fresh coat of the H2O Guard & Gloss, but thought I would do just a standard wash and dry. That consist of a standard three bucket wash, one bucket of car wash shampoo for the wheels and tires and the other two for the car itself. I did not see any difference in the application of the shampoo on the car, felt the same as the standard Adams Car Shampoo. Once the car was washed completely, I rinsed it off with a good stream of water then the sheet rinse. Pulled it into the garage and used the blower to remover the majority of the water. I then applied a mist of Adams Detail Spray on the hood. This is where I felt a big difference. I always used the detail spray in my drying process, but this time the drying towel just simply glided over the hood surface. It was like this for the whole car. I think this is just another great Adams product that will be in my detail cabinet for a long time.