AvsBest

Sweet pastry you aren't kidding. You got the shine freak kit!

1: Entire car first 2: Either or works, consensus is that americana is shinier 3: You can apply 10 coats of BG in a row and it won't build up unlike americana. On a daily driver though, a few weeks apartment you should be fine with another coat of americana 4: Business as usual by hand

If all else fails APC on your windows will get rid of it. I apply 1 full spray of H2O diagonally per door basiclly. Somewhere around 10 sprays per car is enough depending on the size

Do you have HID's? I've seen some weird stuff inside the lens on some cars with HID's even though they generate less heat.

Another one of those

I'm too dumb to answer your actual question but what if you didn't know detail spray had sillicone in it, would it be a big deal to the body shop?

Get well soon!

You might have to look at it from an angle depending on the colour. On my car, I have to pretty much set up the light at the rear quarter panel angled towards the rear door and place myself at the front fender then look at the paint to see everything. (If that makes sense) On black, I can look at it dead on

I find swirl finders are a gimmick. Not saying they don't work but you can find identical lights for cheaper. I find that as long as you have an LED light you are fine

I think I have to agree with you, H2O seems to really fit my B5 Blue and Brillant Glaze didn't do a thing to it. Which brings up this question: On a Plum Crazy Purple paint: I have about 1/3 of the old Machine Super Sealant which I still use regularly to get rid of it and it still works as advertised. I also have the new paint sealant which I bought in case I need to layer quick for the much shorter cure time. Q: Can I layer the H2O right after the machine paint sealant or should I still use the normal cure time/layer guideline?

That's some good input there and it totally makes sense. I wish I lived down south to get on the great deals but americana is about $80 up here so you think twice before buying it. I will more likely give it a whirl at some point thought. I guess I'll try to trade my buttery for some Brilliant Glaze. I can't wrap my head around the fact that I tried BG on half the hood of a pitch black car and it didn't look any different. I was in my garage with only my usual detailing lights so maybe if I had brought the car in the sun... It was probably user error. In this particular case, I was talking about a car that I will detail for a friend, not one of my own so what he does after he leaves my place is up to him. Maybe I'll sell the buttery to him lol! I agree it is a really nice product and will recommend it to the car enthusiast around me, specially the ones that don't do machine.

Along with this line of thought, would you even say that on most vehicles that are sealed, G&G could easily replace buttery?

I'm taking solely about the shine/gloss properties here, not the protection. Is it worth putting a coat of buttery wax after the paint sealant has cured (1 hour) to add shine or is it a bit of a waste of time. Let's say that I get a shine level of 5 with paint sealant, where is the buttery wax going to bring it? If it's a 6, I won't bother... It would be on a purple car by the way. Before you say it, I tried brillant glaze and wasn't a fan so I don't have it. I might re-try it at some point but that's another story. I also don't have americana or patriot. I tried buttery for the first time today and while the paint is the smoothest I have ever touched, the shine factor was pretty much the same as it was before. I sealed the vehicle 2 months ago, haven't washed it since, washed it today then tried buttery. Super easy to work with though, did the whole car in 30min without a sweat. I do take into account that it is a light colour which is why I'm still happy with it Before and after pic:

That's exactly what I did when I upgraded from my PC to the Flex 3401, I turned it into a 4" polisher which works great. The smaller the pad the better the PC as the power in more direct I guess. Obviously the Rupes Mini will kill it but for most people it's more than enough power

Impressive! I thought you had at least buttery wax, brillant glaze or americana.

If you can, could you make a PDF out of it? I feel like I could share this to some non-forum members as well. Very nice work!

It won't haze. Wash without rinsing at the end. When car still wet, spray once or twice on a panel. Use damp double soft to spray evenly Use dry double soft to remove and dry at the same time. Instructions are on the bottle if you forget

90min wow you must've been doing a panel per 10min! What did you use for your LSP?

b5_srt

Measure your backing plate with a measuring tape. My old PC backing plate is exactly 5" 11/16 and it fits the new pads bang on. Anything more like 5" 3/4 won't fit. Even though manufacturers say 6in it's probably a bit under

For the non-techy ones with an iphone out there, if you save the PDF in iBooks, you have access to it without load times and off network

I'm interested in this too!

Products do have a shelf life of about 2 years but it doesn't mean you have to dump it all. Cream like products usually tend to go bad quicker than liquid products. At the end of the day, if they smell the same, look the same and perform the same, keep using them. I had an old bottle of swirl and haze remover that I finished up recently, it smelt and looked the same but performance was down.

I've already started the change over, not gonna be cheap

I was using the swirl and haze remove until recently and I still have some machine polish. The paint correcting is light years ahead of the swirl and haze remover in terms of correction, I estimate the ratio at 1 pass of the new stuff equals 3 of the old stuff (I take into account the fact that the product has probably lost some of its bite over time). Haven't compared the white stuff side by side yet, I will next week out of curiosity.