AvsBest

That's about 10 times more product than I use lol

My point was that it seems like black is "cheap". I would expect to see the same damage on any other colour but it would be more difficult to see depending on the colour. But the thing with black is that it creates more damage which is what bugs me

As far as I'm concerned, she can stay the heck away from the car unless she feels like fixing it after

With black cars I mean geez... So I do this pitch black car, comes out great. I let it sit overnight in my garage then the next morning I decide to put a coat of BG well that was kind of a mistake. After I'm done I notice some light swirls on the car. Nothing to loose sleep over but enough that I noticed and it definitely wasn't there after I corrected it. So my theory is that the insanely small amount of dust that sat on it overnight (and I mean crazy small, my garage doesn't get dusty) was just enough to cause this when I applied the BG with the red applicator by hand. Thoughts? I'm almost thinking that the chemical reaction required to make black paint reduces the quality of paint... I can literally get away with using 1 mitt on my B5 Blue and not cause anything immediately noticeable (of course I don't...) and both cars come from the same factory/paint booth. But like I said, came out greaf so it's somewhat minor

You can do a car with only 1 pad of each but if you have 2 of each, switch when you reach half of the car. The pads get saturated with polish and may loose effectiveness. They also might start dusting because there is too much polish in them, hence the term work clean

What's the name of that blue?

You can cross gaps as long as you do it towards the end of your pass. At which point most of the polish will be on the paint so you won't get it in the seems. Priming the pad is personal preference but as you work more and more panels you probably should use detail spray to re-activate the polish instead of adding new polish every time or you'll end up with a dust fest. If it's your first time doing his I guarantee you'll end up with a dust dest anyways lol. I did a car today and the formula on that one was 1 pass MF and 2 pass Foam. For the foam pads, I only used 2 small pea size drops per panel on my first pass and no more polish on the 2nd pass, just priming. After a few panels I'd use the same amount of polish for 2 panels as it was starting to dust a bit. About the number of pads, I found MF pads only last half the car on a good day until it becomes a dust fest

Like the rest: Waterless at a minimum, Rinseless if you feel like it

I've been following this thread too. I think if someone could do 50/50 shot of flex vs rupes 15 it would help a few people to visualize the difference, if any. As much as I love my flex, you need to hang on to it like to your wife in bed bath and beyond

If you dress with VRT first, you don't really need to tape as the polish residue will be easy to wipe off. If you choose to tape, get some blue painter's tape. I think you have enough pads, I used to use the same pad for the whole car before and it still worked fine. If you have the luxury of using 2 go for it. Given the colour of your car, you may not even need the paint finishing polish, try it when you do your test area and if there is no difference, don't bother. I leave the paint sealant on for 30-45min (I think it says on the bottle) then wipe off. Then wait another hour before putting your americana on. Remember with the PC, slow is fast (your movement speed)

Still waiting for staff to chime in on the gloss enhancer in it or not???

Mine is so sticky it literally sticks to my finger like glue and I need to wash my hands after. I guess I know what to do now, I'm the kinda guy that will use 1 bar for 30 cars, I guess it came to an end on this one

Do you have the VRT on there on the picture? Looks pretty shiny unless the sun was shining right at it

Good job! The first of many I'm sure

I agree with all of the above. Chuck the California duster and use waterless wash if it's dusty only or Rinseless if it's more than dusty. Waterless does not have gloss enhancers in it while the Rinseless does. Mea Culpa: There was some talk on another thread that the new waterless wash has some wax or gloss enhancer in it but it still need to be confirmed by a staff member.

That's a nice tip! I had to laugh at WALA. Perhaps Voila

I think AIO might work for Adam's. We all agree that it's a product that we (hardcore users that are on the forum) won't use but we are a small percentage of Adam's customer. The vast majority are beginners or people who just want a nice looking ride without putting the effort into it

In your case you may just need to clay it, then continue with buttery or americana. Or Clay, revive hand polish, then buttery or americana. No taping required

Gotta love those 6 pistons brembo! I kinda know what you are talking about ???? I got some powerstop brakepads (z23 I think) just on the front and it cut my brake dust by more than half, insane, noticeable difference and they are dirt cheap. I can go 2 weeks worth of dry weather without noticing any brake dust on the hyperblack wheels. And you are right Adams wheel cleaning products (yours and the new one) are very effective at removing brake dust but I'd rather not go through a gallon every month ????

You are in a world of hurt my friend. Of all the cars I have ever done, the one that I had the most trouble with is one with hard water spots. Long story short, it took me 6 passes with the Flex to get it to about 95% perfection. It will probably take you double that with your PC. The good part is because it is your car, you can take all the time in the world to get it perfect by doing one panel per week sorta thing.

You can probably do 20 cars with 8oz and I'm conservative...

Do you simply replace the shampoo with rinseless?

The PC is very safe to use. The front fascia is plastic, I found that I need an extra pass or 2 to achieve the same result on plastic. Luckily for you, the PC doesn't generate heat on the panel so you don't have to worry about the paint being thinner on plastic. PC at speed 5 will work good for you. If you rarely drive the car, you may stick with americana and BG for optimum shine

Waterless: No water at all, just a spray on and wipe product. Rinseless: You need water in a bucket but don't need to rinse or spray the car with water, therefore safer than waterless wash. Check out the videos on both products to see the difference in methods. The rear is usually more swirly than the rest because more dirt gets to that area so you have to be extra careful with your technique in those areas because of the added dirt + the added rubbing = more swirls

Well you made me laugh, congrats! You wrote "L-C" for the pad company but it happens to be the forum shortcut for LC ???? As far as cutting power with those 2 matched up it is more than sufficient for 95% of the jobs out there, never had to go with more cut in my detailer's life except this one scratch that I still have nightmares about on this one car a few years back