AvsBest

The drying towel should stay clean after your dry the car because you just washed it... Having said that you might miss a spot or 2 that you pick up with the drying towel. Long story short, I only wash it when there is a few black/dirt spots on it

Waterless for me

You liked the "less ideal method", wait til you use the best method: you're gonna create another thread for it! H2O is in my top 2 favorite products.

Like most said, I use double softs for H2O, they are stained and that's all I use them for now

More is better but almost one per panel is overkill in my opinion. 2 is enough for most of us, if you have 3 or 4 go for it but most of us won't buy $400 worth of pads just for one car

I'll try the toothbrush. I'm sure the new stuff works great but I don't have any use for it at the moment and don't feel like getting a bottle just for that purpose. A bit of a pain to cross the border nust for 1 bottle. I kinda need a jug of APC though hmmm

I tried searching for this simple question but got nothing. By the way, the forum search engine could certainly get an update, sometimes my exact research criteria answer is in the 3rd page... Anyhow, I've had success with APC and/or peanut butter in the past but not this time around. Any tips? It's been on there for a month or 2 now, in the sun...

Took the wheels off for their yearly cleaning session

This thread is gonna get deleted soon lol

I'd try clay bar

I love the glaze first or last topic. I just sit back in the lazyboy with a beer and enjoy the show

Apparently I'm over cautious, if I can see anything I don't use waterless and my threshold for rinseless is about half of what is on the picture. I caught some rain on the way in so it's a tad more dirty but I brought all I needed (even the full 2 bucket set up and foam gun in case I wanted to do at the office lol). I should have enough of 3 double softs and will go rinseless route

Opinion of this one! I attached a photo of the dirtiest area to give you an idea. Long story short, I need the car clean in the evening and it's gonna rain during the day. I'll have an hour or so after work to do it but I won't have time to come back home for a full 2 bucket wash so I was thinking of doing it on the go. Thoughts? Usually I'd definitely do a 2 bucket for this but you know...

When you think you've got it all figured out your learn something new! I do the GDWM and I was using my full 3 gallon with 2oz of rinseless. Should I just fill half with 1 oz then?

There are some flashlight that are "specialized" in that field like the Rupes flashlight. I have a $40 LED work light on stand found at your lowes or local hardware store. I found the halogen type doesn't work as good and creates crazy heat so LED is a must in my book.

In the best of worlds with the best washing technique, you should only have to do paint correction once in the car lifetime. Having said that, I don't believe in unicorns so do it when it gets swirly. I do mine once a year and I could get away with every 2 years. You can certainly only use the paint finishing product to bring the paint back to life while doing minor corrections in the process. It comes down to inspecting your paint and checking if it bugs you or not. We all have different standards, some wait for rental car condition and some see 5 swirls and freak out. Doesn't matter what method you use to wash the car before applying an LSP but it better be 100% clean and dry.

Given your situation you can probably get away with clay, sealant and polish once a year. BG can be used everyday so up to you. Americana every 2-3 months

Is it just me or it looks like leather conditioner? New formula?

I'm using 1 spray per panel so I guess I win ????

1:30 hours for my 2 bucket wash vs 20 min rinseless wash and no set up/putting everything away required. Let me tell you that if the car qualifies for rinseless, it's gonna be rinseless. Not sure how involved it is: 1) just put 2oz in a bucket, 2) let your double/triple soft soak in it for 30 sec. 3) Wipe on panel with only 1 pass per line sorta speak (no back and forth over the same area) 4) Use dry other double/triple soft towel to dry and done (I use great white drying towel personally)

I don't think it should matter that much but maybe the fact that the first coat cures before you put the 2nd one has something to do with it? I would think that as long as you do the 4th step you should be fine. I put a few drops on the applicator (5-6 or so I guess) I let gravity do the work I don't press on the bottle, then I go back and forth then up and down on one half of the window. Then I do the same on the 2nd half including adding more product. Let sit 10min or so then glass cleaner with the glass towel to remove the residue

I'm still confused lol Step 1: Clay bar window with glass cleaner as lubricant Step 2: Wipe with glass towel Step 3: Apply glass sealant with microfiber applicator (same way you polish, horizontal all the way than vertical all the way) STEP 4: Remove the excess with a mist of glass cleaner (you shouldn't see any product whatesoever on the window after this step) Adam's have a video on this somewhere

Just to make sure: You know you have to remove the excess as indicated on the bottle right?

They could offer a gallon of it but if it takes you 10 years to get through it it's not helping you even if you end up paying 1 cent per on.

I'd add that rinseless is safer than waterless when it gets beyond the "only dusty" dusty stage. You can get away with "lightly dirty" or maybe even medium dirty with rinseless