PT3

Thanks guys. I used to spray the all purpose cleaner on non-diluted and scrub till my hands hurt but im getting tired of it, ive heard good things about the R3 so im going to pick up my stuff in a little while, ill give it a shot.

Let us know how you like it. I have a feeling you'll be thrilled.

Nice stable! I too spend a lot of time on track! I tried a bunch of products I already had... Like Adam's APC, Clay bar, Revive, Car Shampoo, and Simple Green. Some of the products worked OK, but with MUCH scrubbing. So on many recommendations I purchased the Mothers R3.

The winner was by far the R3. It practically melted away the rubber as it didn't take much scrubbing at all and wiped right off with ease. I stopped trying other products since it worked so well.

Almost forgot to leave another pic. Can you tell how much I'm digging this thing?!?! Lol

At least you mask off your emblems before detailing. We get a decent amount of customers that come into the shop and say that there trim/moldings are discoloring. And you can clearly see that someone took a buffer right over them. Always around the rear Porsche raised letters and outer window seals. I replace a decent amount of them under warranty. In these days of customer satisfaction, the customer is never at fault.

 

Thanks.... Though, I'm still rather green with polishing. I must have kept hitting the tape edges and getting the tape adhesive on the pad and dragging it around.

How do you polish around and in between badges??

Yep, I bet that was it! Truck looks great though man!

I don't know the Porsche paint process as intimately as other makes, but another possibility is tinted clear.

It's not unusual for an OEM to use a pigment tinted clear as a top coat to give the paint a different dimension.

Thanks guys!!

DVK - always droppin knowledge! Love it brother!

Dan - thanks for the quick response and kind words. Much appreciated!

On second thought, the areas around the lic plate bolt holes.... I don't think I cleaned them well enough! I'll bet that was it!

Wow.... This is what makes this forum so great. All you guys willing to jump in so quickly to help.

Truly awesome and heartening.

To answer the questions posed:

I polished the rear tailgate.

Truck is brand new so it hasn't been polished before. I was clayed by the dealer though.

I could have been dirt but I'm pretty certain I cleaned the area and adjacent panels very well before polishing.

I don't have any pics of the pads with the black transfer. I cleaned them immediately and they came up clean.

Attached here is a pic of the area polished

Well done!!!

Hey guys.... I was using the Cyclo recently and noticed I was getting some black coloring on my pads.

Is it REALLY possible to take paint off??? Wouldn't that mean I'm through the clear coat???

I was just getting ready to place an order and one item I need is the standard shampoo.  I noticed the new Wash & Wax product and read about the use.  My question is, it says for best results spray a mist of Detail Spray on the wet car.  I have no problem, but what I have always done in to pull the car into my garage, then blow the excess water off and then spray the detail spray and do a finish dry and buff.  So with this I should not blow the excess water off first?

The detail spray provides more lubrication to the rinses water that's still on the car after final rinse. It really makes the drying process more 'slick' and easier.

I would recommend it!

As the title reads.... Looking for a two-bucket dolly.

Enterprise software sales. My clients are the largest account segment. It's an awesome job and I'm regularly the least technical, but bring the business and relationships side of the engagement process. I truly enjoy it! And through my hard work amd sacrifice over the years, I've been fortunate to make a handsome income....especially for someone without college degree. ; )

I realize this was already solved, but when I couldnt get mine to come clean after trying most of the Adams line, folks here recomended #0000 steel wool, and it did the trick in no time! I have used it on a few vehicles with great success, I have used detail spray and glass cleaner as a lube, the GC works better IMO.

 

Hey man....sharing more info even after resolved is A OK by me, brother.

Revive seems to be my go to product as soon as I see something that is not coming off like light water spots either on paint or glass. That stuff is amazing.[/quote

 

Good to note!

Revive is a good cleaner glad it helped! Keep on truckin Phil!

Thanks good buddy!!

I would definitely polish the glass.  This should remove any haze/road grime/crud/film/contaminants/etc that 'normal' cleaning will not.

 

Clay it, polish it, clean with glass cleaner and call it a day!  (maybe seal it if you wish)

 

Let us know how you make out!

Hey Scott - I tried clay. No go. Then used Revive. That did the trick! Thanks!

And thanks to all for the help!

Have a great weekend!

Have you tried Clay or Revive? That might get you back to clear.

Before

After

Have you tried Clay or Revive? That might get you back to clear.

My '16 Colorado came from the factory like that. It even had the marks from the suction cups stuck on the windshield they wouldn't come off no matter what I tried. Polished it like Chris did and it went away.

I haven't tried clay or Revive! I'll give that a try. Thanks guys!

Still curious what it is....

Is there something in the garage like fertilizer or anything of that nature? I detailed a very low mile Harley that was stored near fertilizer bags and the paint and aluminum were both oxidized.

Nope

It keeps coming back.....? It's only on the drivers side window. It's on the outside. This happened on my GT3 before as well, though it was on the passenger side window.

I tried glass cleaner, waterless wash, Rinseless wash, distilled water, and isopro. Nothing works. It might go away for a period of time but ultimate comes back.

I'm at a complete loss! PLEASE HELP!!

If you are working in the sun you will experience your polishing drying out, try using less polish and a little more DS. And if possible find some shade to work in.

But if your car was outside throughout the day the paint would have been at least warm if not still hot

That is what I was getting at.  Especially with black paint.  It doesn't take long for it to get warm or hot.

Thanks guys.  Totally understand.  Man there are so many aspects that need to be considered.

Very well organized for a small space!  And the black P car looks great!

Thanks bud!  I'm looking to build a garage near where I live.

And a transmission lol

Oh jeez!!...you mean you want one of those TOO?!?!?

This plays a factor

 

 

You were working outside?

^x3 - didn't you build a garage last year Phil? 

Hey guys.... I didn't 'build' a garage per se.  I just renovated my 1-car garage.  I could have done it inside the garage.... but the temp/humidity would have been the same.  And since the sun was setting I didn't have to worry about direct sunlight while being outside.  

Did you do one panel at a time? And for my experience I just used a little of the pcp with this product less is more. If it is getting hard to take out put some brilliant glaze on top and it should wipe away easily.

Nice car! If you're talking about finishing polish drying up, try not to work it in too much. Finishing polish has little abrasion so theres no need to let it flash off the paint or work it in. I treat it like a glaze that need to be worked in a little more. Then wipe off right away before it gets dry. If you're having this problem with Correction Polish your pad might have too much product built up in the pad.

I've had the same problem. You have to work in a really small area with the polish if working in high temps and humidity.

Thanks guys! I was working in a 2'x2' spot. But....it was super hot and humid. Though, the sun was setting and behind the trees (FYI)