marquez93

Actually MB paint usually has a good amount of orange peel. That might be a repaint though because I worked at an MB dealer for 17 years and I'm not sure if I've ever seen that color before.

I guess there's probably some kind of tire marker you can use. Or you can just have the tires mounted the other way around. They're usually only white letter on one side. It's not the cheapest option, but it's guaranteed to stay black.

The Rupes backing plates have very strong velcro, especially when new. But it's usually getting them started that is the hard part. I've never had a problem once getting it half way off. I have torn the foam on the pad trying to get one off before.

It sure is effective. I cleaned the wheels on my father in law's Z4M Coupe recently after they sat dirty all winter while his winter wheels were on and I only used it at 1:1. It must have really metallic brake pads because they were bleeding like crazy. And still after just scrubbing them with a wheel brush they were so clean that I dried the whole wheel with a cheap yellow microfiber and the towel barely even got dirty. He was certainly impressed and wants to order some products.

Perhaps agree to disagree is a better way to put it rather than reaching an accord.

Interesting. All of the talk about Rupes machines around here and this is the first time I've ever heard this. I assumed they were both intended for detailing. I love my mk1 15, so no reason to go to a 21 anyway.

Yeah, I'm definitely not worried about it. You can't even see it from 12". Kind of a shame that it does damage so quickly though. I ought to put some quick sealant on it. Hopefully that will make it clean up a bit easier. Thanks for the good advice as always.

Yeah, I kinda thought so. I'd hate to see what they look like on one that has been neglected for years. I'll have to make sure to keep with it even through the winter. I moved to a new house this past winter and while I did do one or two Rinseless washes, for the most part the car was dirty all winter.

I did a thorough wash, HGG and interior cleaning and then put in a fresh leather conditioner air freshener.

The metal polish #1 and some #0000 steel wool really did shine up these tips. However, the lower part didn't clean up perfectly as seen below if you zoom in and still felt rough while scrubbing it. It didn't seem to be getting better, so I stopped. Is it possible that after only 6 months or so of build up on a 1 year old car that this won't get any better?

There are metal fillers, but I don't know if they work well on an edge like that. That's pretty deep damage, but you can just keep grinding it down and then feather it out over a much larger area so it doesn't have a noticeable dip there from grinding. Those look like chrome but I guess if you polish it out well, it might kind of match.

Yikes! Did he really just wipe the wheel and then go back to the paint with the same towel? I'm sure the wheel was already clean for the video, but not the best example for an instructional video.

Luckily mine went FedEx home delivery. It got shipped on Tuesday and should be delivered in Ohio today.

Yes, you can use just PS. It is the most durable product and best for a daily driver. The only benefit you get from adding wax is a little more shine. The PS has lots of shine on its own though.

Just clay and polish those areas and then reapply your LSP and you'll be good to go. No reason to do the whole truck.

Quick Sealant is no longer available and you can absolutely apply Liquid Paint Sealant by hand. Just use the black microfiber applicators. I prefer it for doing a whole car. I love Quick Sealant for wheels, but I don't think I would ever use it for a whole car, much less a truck.

Nice work Dan! My only question is why go through all that work and then only seal with HGG? Why not go with PS for the longest protection? Perhaps because you know she'll continue to neglect it no matter what you do?

Hmm.... I've never heard the term dust nib before. I always just heard it called dirt in the paint. Which is what it is, but now I know there is a term for it.

It's probably been the longest that I've left them without a good cleaning, but it's only been 6 months or so. So hopefully it won't be too bad. I've got some cheap microfibers and also some #0000 steel wool. Thanks for the tips everyone. I'm ready to place an order now. I've got to get a 6 pack of leather conditioner air fresheners before they sell out!

Makes sense. Thanks guys. I will go with #1. What do you apply it with? Just a microfiber towel? I figure it's not worth getting the blue pad when it won't reach most of it.

Welcome! That might be the coolest Camaro I've seen. I love the front end.

The only use I really have for metal polish is on the exhaust tips on my GTI, which get a lot of carbon buildup from the direct injection. If I were to buy only one of the metal polishes, which one would be best for this? I was thinking number 2 since I shouldn't have to do any extreme polishing on them. Or is it important to have both to properly polish them?

Paint sealant is the most durable and I would lay that down first after polishing. And then to step up the shine, you can add Brilliant Glaze and then Americana or Patriot Wax.

Those would be slippery though. Try Interior Detailer.

Yeah, most people won't care about proper washing methods. But it's still a good way to make some extra cash if that's all you're looking for. I'm sure some people will take you up on it. And if they're happy, they might want you to do it every week.