LSX Maestro

Wheel Brush and then a finger and a towel through all the holes. I feel your pain, I have a Denali grille too.

I did a very similar process to you... Strip Decon Clay Correcting and Finishing Polish Paint Sealant Brilliant Glaze Americana Wax x 2 layers Putting the Paint Sealant down isn't necessary but if you'd like to wait longer between waxing sessions or the car may see some very hot weather, the polymer sealant is a lot tougher and will maintain the protection even when the Wax is compromised.

Sounds like tar or something the vehicle ran over on the road. I had it all over my old white Camaro. Nearly gave me a heart attack. Nothing took it off except polishing. I'm sure steam and a clay bar could coax it off too. But you said you've tried all of that. I have no idea. If POLISHING doesn't take it off then it's THROUGH your clear coat and staining underneath it. Try in an inconspicuous spot go really heavy with a correcting/cutting compound and see if it comes out. It had better come out when you're removing that kind of material.

I'm going to guess melting it down and letting it congeal but what's the best way to do that? Any other suggestions? Very hard to get it applied on the Hex grip when it spins...

I use it at every wash, just ordered another gallon of it. My truck absolutely needs it, the Nitto tires bloom quite a bit or it's just a lot of dirt on the surface. Even when I was my garage queens, I'm always surprised by how much brown crud rinses off with the TRC. Good stuff.

Wow that's odd Austin. If you apply wet method properly, a blind person could do it. I've never gotten streaking. Did you shake it before and during use? How heavy did you go? Was your buffing towel saturated and not removing enough of the residue/haze?

Adam's needs to make a touchless Sealant, something like CarPro Hydro2 or some McKee's product, forget which one it was. I use Hydro2 on my in depth wheels and it's night and day at cleanup time. Not something you'd want to use to replace Wax or Sealant but better than naked paint and a lot faster than LPS or H2o GG.

You applied it to a wet car or with the "dry method"? Reason I ask is I've found the "dry method" to not work very well, or at least easily, on black. If I'm not doing it after the car is wet/after a wash, I will use a spray bottle with water, mist a panel, and then follow the directions for the "dry method" on that panel, repeat for the rest of the vehicle. IMO this works better than the wet method which completely saturates the towels with water/disperses more H2O, and better than the dry method which can get tough to do. Try it all ways and find which one you like best.

Love the Gray on that Charger. I believe it's Battleship Gray?

Thoroughly washed the ZL1 after a few days of driving. Wheel Cleaner works amazing, going to pick up a gallon of that stuff. Can't even begin to explain how much better the wheel cleaning process goes now that I use the Adam's brushes/sprays, much faster and more effective. Got a picture with it and my C7 Z06.

That sucks man. I would wait a minimum of 2-3 weeks to apply a wax/spray sealant. But I would wait longer than that if you're going to Ceramic Coat, probably a month. This is if the bodyshop you use BAKES their paint jobs. If they don't bake, you'll want to wait months. I've never seen a paint failure on our paint jobs from pre-mature waxing/sealing but I know it can happen especially if the bodyshop work wasn't up to par/thoroughly baked.

This is probably an obvious one...don't set the hose down where you are going to be working. Why? Well, if you're unlucky like me, you won't see it while carrying the towel bin, the nozzle will be facing straight up, you'll step on the hose, and you'll get a VERY refreshing rinse down in certain areas... 100% happened yesterday. That was a chilly detail session...

Are you speaking of Adam's Correcting Polish? I have used it a quite a bit this last week or two. With the Foam pads it breaks down and gets that oily look pretty quickly after working it a few passes. A little bit does go a VERY long ways. Often after doing 2-3 sections, all you need is a mist of Detail Spray and start a new section. There's usually plenty in the pad. But you don't want to "run it dry" either. So try working it longer, and use a bit less especially after the pad is quite full of polish. Brush it after each section too.

Did my big Duramax. Took me about 5-6 hours. I strip washed, decon, clayed, and sealed it. I wimped out on polishing the whole truck, it doesn't need it that bad and it is white, plus it looked like a humungous task. I tried a new standalone sealant, going to see how it compares to the previous LPS + HGG process I followed.

*mod edit* shineon (10%) There's more but they're all 10% or 15%. Sometimes there's a 20%, but you have to keep your eyes peeled for it and it's limited time.

I've seen a great video of a detailer applying a product that's VERY similar to Ceramic Boost, possibly called Reload. The guy sprays the Reload into a microfiber applicator pad (very similar to an Adam's gray one) applies it like a Ceramic Coating, so ~2x2 area, cross hatching application, then he takes a microfiber that's LIGHTLY spritzed with just distilled water, and knocks it down with the very lightly damp side and flips and buffs. Comes out perfect. Reload is also known for the exact things described with Ceramic Boost, streaking if done improperly, high spots, runs, etc. But if applied properly, it's an amazing product just like CB. I would post the video but it really shows/talks about a lot of other brand's products so I'll refrain.

I would start with the Paint Correcting compound and orange foam pads. After doing a 2x2 test area, wipe it off and inspect with a bright direct light (I've found even the flashlight on my iPhone can suffice for small area inspecting). If it got all of the defects out, then you're good to go. If not, try another pass with it, and if it still didn't get it out then you need more aggressive stuff. Move to the Heavy Correcting and blue foam pads (I'd avoid microfiber unless you're digging a scratch out or really serious oxidization/swirling. Once you do Heavy, you'll likely not see the full benefits until you've gone back over it with the Correcting/Orange. I did all three steps on my black Z06 and it came out like a mirror.

My VRT is very thick and must be "Squirted" out and "sounds" like ketchup being deployed. My Brilliant Glaze is more transparent, thin, and practically runs out of the bottle when tipped to your applicator. Hopefully I never make that mistake!

I drove it 40 miles or so yesterday and brought it back home, I sprayed it down to get the surface road dirt off and then gave it a Rinseless wash. After drying with Detail Spray I was stunned how amazing the paint looks under the bright LED lighting in my garage. It looks clear, wet, and "dark" even though it's white. Finishing Polish did a great job of building the glossy base and leveling the paint down. I've always been amazed how good my white cars come out after a Rinseless Wash + dry with Detail Spray. Thumbs up for Adam's.

I already have a 3”-4” polisher that handles the small details. Mini would fill the same spot.

Happy Birthday Chris!

I know this question of "PC vs other polisher" has been asked a million times. But I'm here to ask it again ? . I just purchased a brand new PC 7424 to replace my older one, I polished out the hood/front flip of my Vette last night and I had no issue with it. I don't mind the vibrations which aren't even that bad IMO (Maybe I got a Wednesday machine) and it easily got the job done. But, gosh darn it, the SKMB is tempting me like crazy right now. So basically the SK 15 would just get the same results a bit faster and run a bit smoother. Worth it? I'm not a professional detailer, just a hobbyist that likes to maintain my...fleet, of cars. Should I just be happy with the PC and just order a TOMB instead?

I would try a light Finishing Polish, since we're on Adam's forums, just try their Finishing Polish if you have it. That will give you a nice level, shine, and deep clean and just do an IPA/Coating Prep wipe-down and apply the Ceramic Coating. Call it a day. Now if the car looks like it has spider webs on it in the sun then that's a different story.

I recommend just going with H2O Guard and Gloss. I tried the LPS on my deep offset truck wheels and it seemed to burn off pretty quick, not worth the labor to apply it to all of the spokes. I think that anything other than a Ceramic Coating is going to burn off quick so something that's laborious to apply is a waste of time. I've actually moved to a touchless silica spray that gets it from wash to wash and keeps them easy to clean. H2O GG is your best bet IMO from Adam's.