Special K

Now that we have a good number of these tools out in the world, some of them are likely due for some preventative maintenance to protect your investment.
 
Basic maintenance is very simple and only takes a few minutes:
Every 2-3 polishing sessions, add a few drops of light machine oil (like 3-in-1) into the bronze bushing on the top of the housing Every 2-3 polishing sessions, blow out the motor housing with compressed air There are some more maintenance items as your machine starts to accumulate more hours, like changing out the carbon brushes.  This is also quick and painless and will keep the machine running in tip top shape for years to come!
 
More info can be found here in the PDF from Cyclo Toolmakers:
 
http://cyclotoolmakers.com/documents/Cyclo_m5-6_instruction_manual.pdf

Hello all. New to the forum and really digging on Adam's products. Right now I have two cars that I've been detailing. The first is my 2017 Honda CRV AWD Touring which is black with black leather. The other is my wife's Mercedes Benz E350 which is also black with black leather. I also have a 2007 Toyota Tacoma Pre-Runner but is a short timer since it's going on the sale block next week. 
 
My CRV is the daily driver and so far has gone through a clay bar followed by Klasse AIO which I've been using for quite a while. Easy to apply but to be honest it's really meant to be a short term sealant just to keep the paint protected until I decide what I want to do moving forward. Coming back to Adam's products I've been using a two bucket wash with Adam's car wash shampoo. Quick touch ups have been Adam's detail spray. For the interior I use Adam's Interior Detail spray followed up with Adam's New Leather Conditioner. The CRV is still pretty new and I'm surprised just how the leather just soaks this stuff up leaving a nice non greasy matte finish. I'm going on a road trip to Carmel CA next weekend and will likely do another layer of the LC the weekend after that. 
 
Now that I have one layer of the Klasse I'm debating where to go from there using Adam's products which by the way I'm loving! 

Have you tried making VRT 'milk'?  Mix VRT and distilled water at about  50/50 and it makes a nice sprayable dressing.  I use it for engine compartments, but I do give it a quick wipe with a utility MF. 

Great job!

This is how we mark ours. Nothing fancy. Just a sharpie on the backing plate. The line should move. If it stays in one spot, you’ve stalled the pad. VERY simple and worth doing. 
 

Thanks, Shane...I was just messing with him on posting a pic. You're right, though. Simple and effective way to improve the process.

will do

Here are a couple "ok" photos of the finished product. I missed a few areas due to lighting, but I felt pretty good about my first shot at paint correction using the swirl killer. Thanks for all the help.
 

Oh Yeah, Here's a couple photos of the finished full correction. I missed a couple spots due to lighting. I worked on the Eurovan over a number of days after work and ran out of light and pulled it in to the garage which I could use some better lighting. Plus my eyes need correcting as well. I appreciate all the assistance.

And you can take a nap on your hood to watch over your (other) baby at night. ?

So I got my bottle of Revive a few weeks ago via a forum trade.
 
Tonight I made it possible to use it for the first time.
 
I WAS BLOWN AWAY!
 
I have never used anything by hand that works this good!
 
I wanted to try it out on my roof, since it has been neglected lately.  
 
For those that dont know me, I have a 2016 Black Tahoe with 15k miles on it.  In early December I did a full paint correction with Adam’s One Step and sealed it up.  ( I should say, I did this to the entire truck...except the roof)
 
I’ve been wanting to experiment with the Revive, so anyways, I clayed an area, then hit it with Revive and the corresponding blue hex grip applicator.  It took very little work and I watched the water spots vanish as I did just a few passes.  The paint was smooth, clean, and glossy, as I cleared the residue.  I topped it with some Buttery Wax for now and walked away.
 
Another excellent product that I waited too long to try out.
 
I encourage folks to post up your shots of Revive as well as any experiences you have.
 
lastly I have 2 questions about it...
-can it be used with a DA, if so, what speed?
-will it remove clear coat if used with DA?
 

Just used the Marker on the backing plate. What a great tip. It really helps.
 
Thanks,
 
Kevin

Just used the Marker on the backing plate. What a great tip. It really helps.
 
Thanks,
 
Kevin

Always do a test spot (2x2) that way you will know what pad & product it will take to make your paint perfect.
Each clear coat  is different, some you can start with CP and finish with CP, some you will have to step down to FP and so on........

That’a correct for the marking. You’ll want to see it moving and not in the same spot. If it’s in the same spot, the pad has stalled and you’re using too much pressure. 
 
As for the speeds, I’ll let someone with a SK address that. We use Rupes machines which are quite similar, but don’t want to assume exact. 
 
For polishing we run 4-5 for speeds and for protection we use a much slower 1-2. These numbers may not apply to your machine. Speed is another variable with polishing. Faster is not always better. More speed equals more heat. It can also work the polish too quickly. 
 
Sometimes less is more. 

Chris raises a good point about pad rotation, and it’s often overlooked. We actually mark the backing plates themselves as opposed to the pads on our equipment. Either way works. But backing plates last way longer than pads and there’s fewer of them to mark. We probably have 40-50 pads that would need to be marked versus four backing plates. 
 
Good tip and thanks for following up!

Nice tip......... mark the pad so you can tell how fast it's rotating.

Shane addressed your questions well, so I'll add a quick tip for pressure. First, make a small perpendicular line on the back of the pad with a Sharpie. Then, as you apply the pad to the surface and turn on the polisher (in that order!!), ensure the pad is spinning slowly. That way you know you're applying enough pressure to make a difference and/or it's not getting stuck.
 
Also, ensure you are keeping the pads flat against the surface...watch for sharp edges and curves where the pad could beat against the paint. Another tip on that...video closeups of your application and watch to validate what you're doing, correcting as needed. 
 
It will be a learning process, so take your time and you'll get in a rhythm.
 
And as always, post some pictures when you're done!

Hi Kevin. You ask some questions that take some time to answer since there’s no real cut and dry answer. 
 
Let’s take them in order...
 
Do you need every step?  That really depends upon in the condition of the paint you’re starting with. You always want to start with the least aggressive method to accomplish the result you’re after. Usually start with a test spot to see how aggressive you need to do. Keep in mind that you’re removing clear coat with polishing. The idea is to retain as much clear coat as you can while accomplishing the finish you’re after. 
 
In theory, you can skip intermediate steps. We aren’t an advocate of doing so though even though when it’s fresh it can look perfect. The purpose of those intermediate steps is to really reduce the lasting effects of each step. If we compound a vehicle, we always correct before finishing polish. The finishing polish is really the step you may get away with skipping. The finishing polish though really brings out the gloss of the finish.
 
When you ask how many passes you should make, again it’s variable. It depends on the condition of the paint as well as the result you’re looking for. Your arm speed, pressure, pad and polish/compound will all determine the number of passes needed.
 
As for pressure on the polisher, you use a light pressure with Adam’s polishes. There isn’t a universal answer for pressure. We use with compound that starts with a light pressure and finishes with increased pressure. So the answer to that is variable as well. 
 
Hope these answers help!

What an awesome ride, and a great piece of history!

It's all good, Kevin. I think I've posted the most mistakes on here of anyone, or at least am a leading candidate. We're all here to help and maybe share a laugh or two along the way. 

= Don't not read this thread before you begin detailing. 

Glad I read this, although a day late. Don't clay with the plastic wrap on.
 

You can wash a coated car with almost anything.  I used to wash my son's coated car with Strip wash (actually Wash Shampoo + APC), as he was only home from college every few months, and it did not affect the coating.  There are some companies that make a 'revitalizing' shampoo, but you be fine with any Adam's washing product, and follow-up every few months the Coating Boost. 
The level of grim on the car will let you know what you can get away with.  I would recommend Rinseless Wash, if you do not drive off road.  It is what I use 90% of the time on my cars.  If the car has lots of grime (dirt, or lots of driving on wet roads) then a regular 2 bucket hose wash is best (or Foam Gun/Cannon for added fun!). 
 

Editing because I misunderstood your question...
 
But to answer another of your questions, WW is for light dust, fingerprints, etc. So you can use it under those circumstances as often as you'd like. You might also consider diluting RW 16:1 to make a waterless wash like solution at a much more economical price point.