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You can polish them out. You can try correcting or finishing polish on a pad and a machine if you want. 
 
They do make glass polish and glass polish pads. That will give you the best results since they’re specific products for the job.  
 
Another option is #0000 steel wool and see if that lifts anything out of it. 

I posted the emblem a few days ago and have now completed the majority of the 1972 Datsun 240z.  The manufacture date was November 1971 and it was a bit rough to begin with.  This was the first picture once it was put in my garage and there was no doubt it was going to a bit of work to get it to an acceptable condition.  I knew going into it that there were some scratches that were not going to come out and a few other flaws that could only be solved with a repaint.  Overall, the goal was to clean it up for the owner and make it presentable so it could be put up for sale.  

 
The oxidation of the paint and many years of sitting in garage left me little doubt that it was going to be nasty details.  After the strip was, APC touch ups, a few more APC touch ups, I finally found the vehicle underneath the gunk.  To be honest, I didn't think it looked to bad once the crud was off from it. 
 

As the wife reminds me of often, I've been wrong before and this was no exception.  I did a small test area and decided that with the age and known flaws, I didn't want to go too aggressive, so I went with a Orange pad and Correcting Polish.  I knew I could get more aggressive if needed, but was more concerned about not doing any additional harm.   After all the washing, this is how the first came looked after doing the hood. 

Needless to say, I went through a few pads today and that is why it nice to a good inventory on hand.  Normally, I plan on 3 or 4 pads for a vehicle and as small as this one is, I was pretty sure 2 pads were going to be plenty, 6 pads later...   The Orange pads did was I wanted to them to and once I completed with the 240z with the Correcting Polish and Orange pads, I did only use 2 White pads with the Finishing Polish.

I had a few spots where some additional touch ups were needed so I finally got to try the new Scratch and Swirl Remover, https://adamspolishes.com/collections/exterior-polishing-liquids/products/adams-scratch-swirl-remover and it worked exceptionally well, so I also tried the new Hand Polish https://adamspolishes.com/collections/exterior-polishing-liquids/products/adam-s-revive-fine-hand-car-polish and given how much I loved Revive Hand Polish, I must say I'm real happy with the new formula.
 
 
Once the vehicle was completed, I went over it with Surface Prep to get everything off and then put down Ceramic Paste Wax on it.  While I considered doing a Ceramic Coating, I didn't think it would add to the resale value.  The owner is very happy with the results so far and hopefully the weather is be more cooperative on Friday so I get it outside and go over the tires with tire shine to get them up to the level of the rest of the vehicle.
 
 

Just got this new Scott Scale bike, so I thought I would Ceramic coated so it will be easier to keep clean. I used our UV Paint  Ceramic Coating.
https://adamspolishes.com/products/ceramic-paint-coating-uv
 

https://adamspolishes.com/collections/ceramic-paint-coating-9h
 
Just finished up this nice GMC, washed,clayed, paint correction & Ceramic UV Coating. Check out before & after pics.
 

Agreed with @RayS, no need for both. They're essentially the same thing, with CS3 being a slight tweak on the CWW and a different scent (that I prefer). Take your pick of either one.

The McLaren Denver dealership loans them the Adam's. 
 
 
Correct. And that red 600LT had been in there since the Fall, if not summer. My daughter fell in love with it during a trip up there in October. Either way, it was in there a long time! Started to think Adam bought it 😆

I used CSC for the first time last month and was seriously shocked at how easily  it was removed....it may even be easier To remove than a detail spray. 

Another perk of working at Adams..getting to stare at a Mclaren all day!!   
  Does a local dealership lend them to the warehouse for display and demos??

If it is local dealer, that means you can not only buy items to make a vehicle shine, you can also get something to use them on.  I'm not sure the wife would be too happy if I stopped by to pick up some shampoo and came home with a Mclaren to use it on.  Then again, she just surprise me and want a new garage queen for herself.

I believe the local Mclaren dealership loans the cars to them. One of the Mods can confirm or correct. The 720S replaced a 600LT that had been in the showroom since Christmas. Both beautiful cars. I think I have some pictures of the showroom during Christmas. If I do, I'll post one.

Congrats! For what it's worth, I like to reapply Ceramic Spray Coating about every 4-6 months on my daily driver just because I like how easy it is to apply and remove 🙂

thank you! had our 2nd girl. we named her Kaylin. now its time to brainwash her into becoming a detailing fanatic! my 3 yr old already knows we dont make a mess in daddys car! lol the best is when she tries to guess the air freshener scents!😆

Went to the warehouse this week to pick up an on-line order and saw this... Finishing the north wall in the main showroom. Plus brought in a Mclaren  720S

Congrats on the baby!  I can only assume
time is precious...if I were you i would
just wait a few months for the CSC to wear down then apply the CC.  The last thing you need is your child’s mom yelling at you for detailing your car for a full day!!  

Congrats on the baby!  I can only assume
time is precious...if I were you i would
just wait a few months for the CSC to wear down then apply the CC.  The last thing you need is your child’s mom yelling at you for detailing your car for a full day!!  

Congrats to the whole Adams team! You guys do some great work.  
 Quick story..few years ago i was looking for new car care products.   I had not heard of Adams and specifically decided against Adams because i didnt like the old style car on its label...fast forward a year or so later and now its the bottles (and product inside) that keeps me coming back!  Love the bottle designs!
 The market team and design team are unreal! You guys get me every time! I have a large wall full of the Limited bottles.  I have only missed one in the past 2+ years (CO bottle). 
 Keep up the hard work! Congrats!

And it’s finally coming together. This week the wrap will be done and the calipers painted. 
 
Monday we are going down to ACI Dynamix to ceramic coat it and it’ll be home Tuesday. 
 
The vision is becoming complete. It totally changes everything about the car. 
 

If the trunk has heavier imperfections, work in a smaller 1-foot by 1-foot area at a time, using the speeds that The Guz suggested - about speed 4-4.5 with slower arm movement, moving the polisher about 1" per second or so - almost like a slow-motion movement. Do 50% overlap with a small amount of downward pressure on passes as well, just a little bit more than the weight of your hand on the machine - not too much that it prevents it from oscillating and rotating. Make sure to monitor the temperature of the panel. Feel the panel every so often with the back of your hand to make sure that it is not getting too warm or hot - heat is what will cause clear coat strike-through.
 
With the Microfiber Cutting Pad, brush it back up after every work-area when you power off the machine. When you apply Compound to the pad, I like to spread it around on the pad with my finger some before even putting it onto the panel, to help distribute the Compound more evenly across the pad face.

Hi Seth! I would recommend to do a test spot with the orange Correcting Polish and Orange Foam Pad first, as you may not need the Heavy Correcting Compound and Microfiber Cutting Pad on the whole vehicle. I paint-corrected a friend's red 2001 Camaro SS several years back and some of the car had been repainted. Most of the factory paint was medium range in terms of hardness, and I was able to polish the majority of it with the orange combo, so I would say you would be fine with the products you have and may not need the newer Compound in this case. If your old bottles have been stored in a relatively room temperature area and still seem ok after a good shake, I would say to use them up first.

The Heavy Correcting Compound will make some dust, and it will most likely leave a bit of haze, so I would definitely follow it up with at least the orange Correcting Polish and Orange Foam Pad before moving into the ceramic coating process. If it's a dark color like black or blue, I would recommend our White Foam Pad and white Polish as well, but if it's red like in your avatar, you may not need to do that final finishing polish step. 

Do you have any of our new TAR? (Tar & Adhesive Remover.)That would do the trick.
If not if you have any BG don’t shake it up, use the top solvent it will remove the pine sap.

https://adamspolishes.com/products/adams-tar
https://adamspolishes.com/collections/exterior-polishing-liquids/products/adam-s-brilliant-glaze
 

Hey everyone, quick update here. I edited the original post of this thread to include dilution ratios of some of our newer products and added them to the list. The rest of the post is a bit outdated now with old pictures and so on, so I'm working on a new Blog write-up for the website as I type this.
 
I'm planning on explaining dilution ratios similar to this thread, but also including percentages of mixtures since some people find that much faster and easier to make some custom mixtures. 
 
If you have any other suggestions, thoughts, or questions, please post them here and I will see if they can be incorporated into the new write-up! Thank you!

I always used Langka it’s probably the same as Dr. color.
 
http://www.langka.com/

I would like to thank you guys for helping out the country and especially sending much needed supplies out east to the NYPD!👍🏻

With quite a bit of time on my hands right now I took care of my wife's Daily, a 2012 1LT Camaro in Ashen Gray Metallic. The Tire/Wheel swap is usually done after April 15, and the detail over Memorial Day weekend, but, well, I'm bored and now a bit ahead.
 
Broke out the Quick Jack, and removed the winter tire/wheel set up

 
I used my MTM Undercarriage Cleaning Tool, connected to my Pressure Washer to blast all the winter from under the car. Now, with the wheels off, it gave me a great opportunity to clean the inner fender wells and suspension. I lowered the car a couple years ago with a set of Pfadt Lowering Springs and it's now hard to get in the wheel wells with a brush with the Tires/Wheels on. Tire & Rubber Cleaner in a Foaming IK Sprayer, a couple different brushes and they came out about as good as new.

 
I dried everything with my Master Blaster Revolution, prepped with Surface Prep and applied a nice coat of Ceramic Spray Coating to help keep things clean.

 
Cleaned the engine bay; All Purpose Cleaner, the Pressure Washer, and the Master Blaster

 

 
Summer Tire/Wheel set up back on

 
Winter Tire/Wheels scrubbed clean, Tire Armor on the Rubber and Ceramic Spray Coating over top the previously applied Ceramic Wheel Coating. 24 hours later Ceramic Boost on the wheels, and they're now stacked in the basement until next winter.

 

 
The Weather Tech floor mats were scrubbed with Tire & Rubber Cleaner, allowed to dry, then prepped and hit with Ceramic Spray Coating and Ceramic Boost to come back looking like new.
 
On to the car...
Summer Tire/Wheel set up on and dropped her off the Quick Jack
 Mega Foam, Foam Cannon and my Pressure Washer

 
A nice two bucket wash with Car Shampoo using the Gray Microfiber Wash Mitt
Blow Dry with my Master Blaster, followed with a wipe down with Waterless Wash.
Did a baggie test, she needed Clayed. I had a small spot of rust in the left rear wheel arch taken care of in January, and evidently there was over-spray on the paint. The car has Adam's 9H Ceramic Paint Coating with the UV Tracer on it, but the fine paint dust still had stuck. Fine Grade Clay quickly took care of what was on the paint. A Rinseless Wash mixed as Waterless Wash removed the Detail Spray residue from claying.

 
I polished the left rear quarter panel, A Pillar, and C Pillar where the paint work had been done. I also had to re-polish the trunk lid. It appeared the body guy had sat something on the trunk that left some light scratches. There was also a light scuff on the right rear wheel arch that needed removed.
Tools:
SK 15mm Pro and SK Mini
Microfiber Pads
Blue Foam Pads
White Foam Pads
Compound
Polish

 
LSP, I'm trying something different, a bit of various product comparisons.
Left Rear Quarter Panel, A Pillar, C Pillar, Trunk Lid, Rear Spoiler, Side Mirrors, spot on the Right Rear Wheel Arch I repaired, and the Flat Horizontal  piece of the front bumper below the headlights got the new Ceramic Coating Wax.
The Roof, Right Side A Pillar, C Pillar and Flat surface of the Right Rear Quarter Panel got the Liquid Ceramic Wax.
The Hood, Tops of the Front Fenders, and Top of the Front Bumper got the original Version 1 of the Ceramic Paste Wax.
All the rest of the vehicle was left alone, with just the Ceramic Paint Coating applied last Fall.
 
The car was wiped down with CS3 after I pulled it out of the garage, and the wheels wiped down with Matte Detailer. The Tires have a few coats of Tire Armor on them I'd applied last Fall after I pulled them for winter storage.

 

 

The Stainless Steel exhaust Tips were taken care of with Metal Polish #2
 

 

 

 

 

 
The Interior was completely Detailed too. I wiped all hard surfaces down with the Eucalyptus Mint Interior Detailer with Microban. The Clean Cotton Odor Neutralizer was sprayed through the HVAC system and the New Fabric Protector was applied to the cloth seats.

 

Hi there, welcome to the forum, and beautiful Z06 you have there! I see some other nice rides hiding in the background too!
 
What black pad are you using? Our dark gray (some people call it black) pad is zero-cut and made for applying Buttery Wax or Paint Sealant, so it will not remove even very faint scratches. I would recommend trying the White Foam Pad and Finishing Polish in those areas. Also keep in mind that C5 and C6 Corvettes have fairly hard clear coats, so while the scratches might seem very light, they might take a little more effort to remove.
 
If you've already polished 4 or 5 times per panel - were you using a more aggressive compound each time? If so, you may want to consider how much clear coat is left on the panels too...I would hate for you to strike through the panel, but at least the Orange Pad and a Porter Cable isn't too aggressive of a setup.

My opinion, maybe try to go over a few of the fine scratches in one small area with a finishing polish to see if they improve. Use a new plush microfiber towel to remove the polish, with very light pressure, and flip the towel to a fresh side after doing the initial wipe. I love our Borderless Gray Towels for this - we use them almost exclusively on a lot of high-end and delicate paint auction vehicles that we detail at Barrett-Jackson. Use a light mist of Surface Prep to aid in removal of the polish residue if necessary. If you can get the finish to 90% improvement or more, that is usually when I'll stop and ceramic coat the vehicle. There comes a point where trying to get it near 100% perfect can drive you bonkers or end up hurting the finish in the process. I hope that helps out! 🙂