RayS

Right quadrant

I had not bought any of the Slick & Slide to even since so many of my vehicles are ceramic now. I just reread the product page and even read over it again or it is not listed that it works with Ceramic Coatings. However, your word has always been good, so I just added a bottle to my wishlist now that it is working again. Thanks Dan.

Egg boiled

My wife will be happy, she's tired of going through sticky notes to see what she needs to order for me to keep her vehicle shiny.

Welcome to the Forum Levi.

Interior Detail Spray on the hard plastic covers will keep them looking good between major cleanings.

If the vehicle has a little dirt or garage dust on it, then I use a waterless wash towel since it seems to pick up the particulate a little better, then I follow up with a single soft. If the vehicle is rather clean, then I just use a borderless gray followed by a single soft. I have have many more borderless gray towels than waterless wash, so it makes it cuts down on the laundry when I use less of them.

I would recommend CS3 for Ceramic in lieu of Detail Spray. It does an amazing job as both a Waterless Wash, detail spray and added shine in one bottle. It is quickly becoming one of my favorite products.

Race zone

I have converted four vehicles from Ceramic Paste Wax to Ceramic Spray Coating. The vehicles were all well maintained while they had CPW on them and the timeframe was between 3 months and 10 between CPW and CSC. Two of the vehicles needed a strip wash, a few touch ups and then Surface Prep and the Coating. One needed a bit more extensive work in some paced and one was a complete start over. The one that needed some extensive work, did not require the entire vehicle to have the multiple step polish, it was just certain parts. Specifically the fenders, especially behind the back tires and the front end. My recommendation would be to do a good strip wash and then carefully look over the vehicle to see what needs to be done where and go for it.

As good as that looks, I hope you ceramic coated it to keep it looking good.

Switch parties

I follow the same process with one exception, I have a separate short bucket for the wheels and tires and the wheel mitt & woolies. I've found that keeping the wheel and exhaust components completely separate from body products prevents me from doing things that would be considered less than intelligent a 3rd time... My cart is set up where the bottom shelf is only for the wheels, tires and exhaust areas. Even the hose sliders for the tires stay on the bottom shelf. It also makes it easier to grab the items as I roll around the vehicle on my seat.

I feel sorry for you Texans, in South Carolina, we've dropped down to 89 already and it is only 8:10 PM. The heat index is still at 96, which means you are sweating before you can even get to the vehicle, let alone start working on it. I know the Fort Worth area is supposed to drop under 80 tonight and in SC, we're supposed to get to the mid-70's by 4:00 AM. I have one vehicle for Saturday and should be able to get it washed and in the garage by 8:30 AM to start the polishing and know that by 1:00 PM, the garage will be unbearable. I have good fans in the garage and a climate controlled room where I keep all my chemicals and tools, so I can and do take regular pauses to get out of the heat and cool down. Another 6 weeks of heat and then we get 3 months of beautiful weather with the exception of a hurricane or two. I also keep a bottle of water on my detail cart, a little mist of purified water with almost any product that starts to dry to fast will help prevent streaks, spot or excessive work - plus a spray in the face every once in a while helps.

Shot down

Hi Brandon, I have used the Scratch & Swirl following the online and container instructions using it by hand and machine and both work exceptionally well. It comes down to the condition of the surface you are working on and having the right pads to go with the product being used. One of the things I like about the product is the flexibility of being able to use it by hand or machine. On golf carts, I've found that I can do about 75% with a machine, the other 25% requires hand because of decals or tight spaces. With Scratch & Swirl Remover, I'm able to use one product to do the entire cart. The blue Hand Polish is meant to be used by hand and does not have any information about machine use. I have tried it just so I could get a comparison to Revive Hand Polish and in my opinion, they worked in an identical manner.

Rights abuse

Rack space

The one thing that I have consistently found with trim is that there is nothing from the vendors that makes it straight forward. It is bad enough between different manufacturers, but even on the same vehicle it can be completely different from one part to another. Regardless of which coating I have used on trim, I have found that keeping the coating as thin as possible has helped reduce high spots. Sometimes I over trim 2 or 3 times to get everything covered and I never spray the coating directly on the trim. As far as any different between the non-UV and UV, I have not found any differences except with the UV light, I can see the spots that I've missed much easier.

Area rug

My recommendation for longevity and ease of application for a large area is HGG. If the RV is primarily white, then HGG is even better. Alternately, if you are going to wash it on a regular basis and use a foam gun, you can use Wash & Wax and the Red Car Wash Wedge since it will cover a large area quickly. https://adamspolishes.com/collections/car-washing-accessories/products/adam-s-wash-wedge Using Wash & Wax, My motorhome, which I sold about 2 years ago was a 30' Class C and I could do it with Wedge and Foam Gun in about 4 hours. The 30' camper that I take care of and has 3 sliders takes me about 3 hours and the 26' class A, no slides, takes about 2.5. I can do them every 4 to 6 weeks. When using HGG it is a spring and fall endeavor and takes about 8 hours for a 27' Class A with two slides. HGG requires a wash first and then the application of the HGG and time on a ladder. The HGG does give it a better appearance, but it is a whole lot more work. I have not had anyone willing to pay for a coating yet on a camper or motorhome, but I suspect that would be a many day effort. Revive Hand Polish or now it is just called hand polish tends to make the graphics really pop. The downside is that once you start with the hand polish on the graphics, especially if they are oxidized, you have to do them all because they will look so much better.

Thanks for the additional info. I plan on having the floor coated in my new shop and that is something that I'll also need to pay attention to. It reminds me of when we had some passageways repainted, if you had a little moisture on your boondockers, you'd up end up your backside.

Promised relief

I use mine in the house, the garage and driveway and have not had any problems with it sliding. My garage floor does not have a coating on it and it does not get slippery when wet, which may be the difference in our outcomes. The big questions are whether or not other items slide on your floor when it is wet and whether or not the stool slides easily when the floor is dry.

Welcome to the Forum.