RayS

Now you got my attention - I've been waiting for Red buckets to come back. Do they have the gamma seal?

Loose cannon

Welcome to the Forum Vad

@Chris@AdamsHi Chris, The statement about a freshly washed vehicle is the part that I'm having a little challenge with. If I use Ceramic Boost, Ceramic Waterless or CS3 as my drying aid what is the benefit of adding the Graphene Detail Spray after that? If my wife's vehicle (garage queen) sits in the garage for a couple of days and I want to knock the dust particles off it, based on the statement of freshly washed, would you consider it to still meet that criteria. On the non-ceramic vehicles, I use regular detail spray at the stage. Currently for the Ceramic vehicles, I use Ceramic Waterless Wash (because I have a gallon) or CS3. I'm debating on ordering a gallon during the Bogo sale, but want to make sure I'm going to be able to use it.

I was burning a vacation day today and decided to spend some time on the Chrome on the bike. I'm going to make it shine and put it up for sale. It is time to give up the bike, at least a two wheeler. I'm not sure what I'll get as a replacement toy, but I have started looking for something to take it's place.

There is no doubt that you can and the members of this forum will help you get it there. Just be patient and willing to experiment and learn. If you don't have a test panel, stop by your local pick-a-part and grab a small trunk lid, it really helps to practice. If you are like me and have your kids car to practice on, forget the test panel.

Wax on, Wax off - wrong movie. Wax buildup

Hi Jake, I would highly recommend getting CS3, it is easy to deal with and leaves the vehicle looking great. A little can go a long way, so don't put too much on while working with it.

Absolutely beautiful.

Welcome to the Forum Colin.

I had the same thing happen to a vehicle with Ceramic Spray and it turns out that the sprinklers had a heavy dose of chlorine or something similar and etched in to the coating. The only option was a complete polish and do it again. I cannot say for certain that is what you will need to do, but the picture sure looks similar. Chemicals in sprinklers that dry onto a vehicle can really mess up a good coating, wax, polish, etc...

I also tend to go toward the 3M tape and like the 3/4 or 1 inch. I tried to use the 1/2 a few times and couldn't keep it straight. The green is the preference on a black or blue vehicle, it stands our better and of course I avoid the green on green vehicle. If I am working a very tight space, especially around headlights or delicate places, I will use the Red vinyl water resistant electrical tape by 3M. It is easy to work with, sticks good even when you stray something on it or hit it with the polisher and it doesn't leave any residue when you take it off within an hour or so. A word of warning, missing a piece and leaving it in the South Carolina sun for 2 days, will make it a pain to take off. The series is the 3M Temflex vinyl electrical tape 1700C and there are multiple colors, but the Red is the least expensive, plus I like red. Store it in the house or in a cool place out of the sun or heat. One $3 roll will last me a couple of years.

Adapter pattern

I'll get this one started, because I used to totally suck at getting glass clean no matter how hard I tried, then I found a few combinations that worked and work well. Actually too well, since now I have to do the house windows also. Step 1, is getting the glass contaminate free. This is more than just dirt, tree sap and other stuff that is stuck. In my kit, I have Adam's Glass Cleaner, clay, plastic razor blades, regular car shampoo and #0000 steel wool. Starting with the Glass cleaner and Green towel, wash the windshield. Then go over it with the baggie test, recognizing the difference between crud and pits takes a little getting used to and sometimes it is really hard to tell. You can clay a windshield and sometimes I do, but most of the time I use the plastic razor blade and car shampoo as a lube. Why car shampoo, because it lubes, cleans and completely rinses off without any haze. The #0000 steel wool is the last resort item, make sure it is the #0000 to prevent further marring and it may take some work, but will remove many items that nothing else will touch. Step 2, Once we have all the crud off the windshield, go over it again with Adam's glass cleaner. For the windshield, I like the Adam's Glass Sealant, followed by the Glass Boost. In fact, when we travel I take the Glass Boost with me and that is how I clean the windshield, never using one of the gas station squeegee. Every 1-3 months based on storage and weather, repeat the process. Step 3, Side windows and rear window get washed with Adam's Glass Cleaner followed by Adam's Spray Wax. Just mist a borderless grey with the Adam's Spray Wax and then go over the window, they'll take on a reflective characteristic and nothing sticks to them and I do the same for same for outside mirrors. Step 4, The inside glass and review mirror are all done with Brilliant Glaze and nothing else. In fact, the inside windows of the house and mirrors are all done with Brilliant Glaze as the glass on the lights.

Followed directions

A good way to mess up a bunch of single and double softs is toss them in the washer right after hash products were used or somebody missed the dryer sheet when they took their stuff out of the dryer. As for tossing towels, unless they are so bad, they can't be used a grease rag, they never go in the garbage. I get every last drop of use out of mine. They generally go from the body, to wheels & tires, the exhaust tips and engines to general mechanics grease rags. The body ones are the only ones that get the proper wash treatment with the Towel & Pad Revitalizer, the rest go to the side and generally get a bucket and hose taken to them.

@falcaineer @Bscott94 what is missing from the chart is the Wash & Coat. I use it every 3rd wash on my ceramic based vehicles using my Foam Gun and like the results. The foam is a bit thinner than the others, but I've found it lubricates very well, smells good and leaves the vehicle looking good.

Welcome Pete. My only trip to Norway was to Oslo and we spent way too many hours inside a windowless building.

Product accepted

Hallo Pete @PetFjuand Velkommen to the Forum and that is about the limit of my Norwegian. If you are using a true Vehicle Shampoo such as Adam's Car Shampoo, you are good to wash it. The coating is fully cured in 24 hours, I prefer to wait 48 hours and after 5 days, I treat it as normal. Post a note in the new member section and we always appreciate pictures of the vehicles.

Ball knot

Hands touching

What a beautiful truck and not just because it is Red, although that does quadruple the value. I see you are up near Saratoga, I'm originally from the Finger Lakes region - lots of snow and long winters.

I will recommend diluting the APC or using the Eco APC to help ensure that you not get any discoloring on the cheaper vehicles. As for VRT, thin coats are best to prevent it from running later, I generally us Tire and Rubber Cleaner and Painters Tape when needed.

I use a rotational method for maintaining my ceramic based vehicles, which are currently all using CSC, except one. Most of my vehicles get washed about every other week, except the wife's garage queen which gets special treatment. Using the two week cycle, week one will be Wash & Coat followed by Ceramic Waterless Wash for a drying aid. I doubt I'll purchase another gallon of CWW unless it is a good sale since we have CS3 available. The next wash is Ultra Shampoo and then CS3 as a drying aid. Wash 3 is Ultra Shampoo with Ceramic Boost as a drying aid. If I have any touch ups in between, then it is CS3 - love that product. Then it is back to the Wash & Coat and CWW. On key point, I never use Ceramic Boost unless it is a drying aid or used with water on the towel by using a mist of water, then a could of mists of Ceramic Boost on the towel. If the towel becomes too wet, ditch it and grab another one. The Wife's Garage Queen is kept spotless and it see's regular CS3 or CWW treatments, again once I run out of CWW, I won't purchase it again unless it is a really good sale. To be clear, I have no complaints about CWW at it, it works great and smells great, I just don't need CWW and CS3. It is not unusual for me to spend time with the garage queen several times per week. While I spent many hours initially cleaning, polishing and coating just the chrome grill on her Terrain Denali. The maintenance has been extremely easy for pretty much the last year and has probably saved me 10 times the amount of hours on maintenance and I do not use CB on the chrome grill at all, just CS3. All the family vehicles, except one have been coated and the one that is not coated has the original Ceramic Paste Wax on it and gets the same maintenance routine.