DaleH

Love that blue blue oval!

Dale H.

Love that color! Or should I say colour.  (I'm from Canada but have been in Texas for over a decade and got out of the habit...) 

Welcome!

Dale H.

Just getya one'a these...

strand lighting

Ouch.... Just the sight of crutches makes me shudder.... Get well soon.

Heart breaker

Welcome!

2 minutes ago, RayS said:

The results are outstanding

Dang! Looks like glass. Amazing. That's a little more work than some wax...

14 minutes ago, Angelo said:

Before I make a mess that will take hours to fix.  Need to know if I can put Buttery wax over Zaino's (C-Magic is same formula) or if I need to remove all of the old polish?  I had a horrible time once when I put McGuire's detail spray on top of Zaino's.  It hazed and would only smear around.  Called Zainos...Sal actually answered and said it needed to use Z-6 to pull it off.  He said carnauba only "floats" over the surface.. Good news, it came off.

So is it okay or do I need to strip off the old Zaino's?

Two ways to approach this... 'could' you or 'should' you. Since BW is pretty short term it's not going to hurt anything. Depending on it's quality the ceramic is going to resist the wax. (that what 'floats' means)

That said the best advice I've received is to keep polymer products with polymer products. You'd be better off to use Ceramic Boost or Ceramic Wax.

I thought I'd seen all of Apex's vids... In the vid about the flex he says that the grease is good and doesn't need replacing but he likes to do it.

Consider how you are using the machine as well. If you are a professional detail shop and plan on using the SK all day all week then a better lubricant can give you longer life.

I need one of those fancy Adam's license plates...  

2 minutes ago, 8675309'SS said:

Those wheels deserve their own photo. Nice!

Thanks. That Tire Armor is awesome stuff.

10 hours ago, dpa34 said:

I just purchased this machine, and I have seen some videos on other long throw da's  that they replace the factory grease,  I was wondering if this was needed on the SK ?  I also read the instructions that came with it and it mentions after a year to take it in and have it inspected and lubricated ?  can someone that has had the machine for a while  explain what they do or whats needed in further detail please.

 

 

Thanks 

The only one that I've seen that done on is the Chicago Electric. The main reason is for sound and smoothness of operation. The Swirl Killer has neither problem. I would guess the process would be similar but not required.

Hard to tell but it does look like aluminum. The paint is the remnants of long gone clear coat. That stuff was there to prevent what you are now seeing.... pretty bad corrosion. Some of those pits look pretty deep. You should be able to test on the back of the rims without too much grief. 

59 minutes ago, ChristopherOrris24 said:

I’d like to make a recommendation.  For the next Trunk Organizer.  Can you get rid of the Velcro Lid opening in place for some of those Flat Magnets you see in some retail packaging.  It shouldn’t cost much and would make repeated opening and closing of the Trunk Organizer 110% Better

And not get stuck on any poor MF that wanders too close...

15 hours ago, SIM CAMARO said:

I would really like less dye in the product.  The black friday red detail spray was the worst!  I liked the smell, but it turned the towels and my hands red.  I wish i would have bought more mystery spray.  The labels can be cool and colorful, but just make the liquid white.  I know...not going to happen...

This is why I always wear gloves.

21 minutes ago, Darryl.507 said:

 

Yeah I mean I've seen what it does for black paint on multiple reviews and don't get me wrong it looks amazing. I just have white paint and my car only has 30 thousand kms on it so it's its not that bad. I mean it definitely needs to be corrected and polished as it never has been..  I just don't want to have to buy the FP and the white pad to go with it if I don't need too. I've spent a rap load of money already. 

I hear ya.

X2 on @Chris@Adams post. Always do a test spot.

unlimited supply

17 hours ago, falcaineer said:

No, you don't need the FP. What you have should be just fine and produce great results!

Agreed, but that FP really livened up my tuxedo black paint...  

2 hours ago, Parad0x said:

I think the biggest thing with doing it is creating even more SKU's and storing basically double stock of existing product but without color/scent.  

They could probably do it for a few of their more popular items like Car Shampoo, Detail Spray and Interior Detailer but I don't see it being feasible for a lot/most of their products.  

 

That being said, I do understand where you are coming from and as someone who gets occasional eczema breakouts, can feel for ya'.

Another thing to consider is that these chemicals are not 'scent free' and often the added scent masks the chemical smell. I got an ozone generator off of Amazon and use that after detailing. Seems to wipe out everything...

I'm your huckleberry! Wooo Hoooo!

Since you asked for opinions instead of answers.... There are two things that cause curing. air and light. I haven't tried this yet but plan to. I'm going to have a bucket of water with some apc in it. As I use the MF it's going straight into the water. I'll let you know how it goes Saturday...

If you buy the paint coating kit it comes with the coat prep product. There can be some residue left after polishing. The coat prep cleans off everything leaving you with a clean surface to apply. Adam's has some great vids on the process. Watch those before you coat and all should go fine.

Don't forget the coat prep after the polish...