Yo-Yo Ma's Cousin

Learned a smart little trick yesterday at The Shine Stop. For knobby tires, truck tires, and maybe even normal ones (I'll try it eventually), use a clean/dry wheel brush to apply Tire Shine. Makes it super easy to quickly get into all the little cracks and crevasses, as well as spread it evenly. Try it out!

i used the Adam’s Ceramic Spray Coating on my 2000 Porsche Boxster today. I followed the steps Falcaineer gave me along with the advice he got from the Shine Stop.
I ended up putting 2 coats on the top after using an APC with a brush to clean the top before I coated.
Here is the video of my before and after.
Thanks Falcaineer!

"Soooo cool" I thought so too.
Its a really small top and I used the 4oz CSC that came in my mystery bucket. I didn’t touch the 12oz I already had.
like I said, I used it generously.
Go big or go home. Right  🙂
 

I think you should be okay if you take the time to wipe it all down after the flash period.
 
for ceramic boost, it’s recommended to apply it, like falcaineer said, 24 hours after applying cc ( right after the cure period of the cc). And that acts as a sacrificial layer to your cc.
 
beyond that use it as falcaineer recommended. Once a month-ish
 
you can use it as a drying aid (similar to ds or hgg) or you can apply it on dry paint. The bottle should have instructions for both application methods.

Me too’ I was ready to get in the ring!

Welcome! Feel free to ask any questions that may come up. People On this forum will be very happy to help.
 
glad you’ve found an interest in detailing! Adams is certainly my favorite line of car products and I hope you enjoy the process as I do!

Is you cant use it every wash!
 
 

200.00 mystery box hahaha

Welcome, Luis!
 
We all started somewhere, and the fact you've found this forum is a great start in the right direction. The 12mm is awesome, but for a whole car, it's likely not the optimal solution. Here are two articles I highly recommend you take a few minutes to read.
 
 
 

Correct. There are two steps to applying the ceramic coating after you have followed the many steps of prep work.
 
Application: This is where you apply it to the paint using a specific medium. The recommended technique is to put a small amount on application block/towel/microfiber applicator (depending on which ceramic coating product you have. CSC you can use either a towel or the microfiber applicator, and for the regular paint CC, you use the application block that should be included in the kit). A cross hatch pattern is recommended for applying from the applicator block/towel/microfiber applicator to the paint in small 2' x 2' portions of the paint. The cross hatch pattern is basically just to ensure coverage of the whole 2' x 2' portion of the paint. Then you wait the amount of time specified for the product to flash. You'll see it becomes to rainbow and look like oil on water while it's "flashing" on your paint. Leveling/Removal of Excess product: This takes place after you have allowed the product to flash. Using a towel (Adam's has Suede Removal Towels) you go over the product that you applied in the last step and remove all the excess, it should look pretty shiny. It shouldn't take too much effort or elbow grease. It normally levels off pretty easily. Make sure you take the time to get every part of the paint where CC was applied. I use this step also as a way of leveling or getting the product to be spread to an even layer. After all this you leave the coating to cure, preferably indoors, for an extended amount of time, dependent on the product you choose. You'll hear people talk about high spots. High spots will happen if you skip this step or if any of the CC that was applied doesn't get leveled/removed. They look like the following:  
Note: High spots can happen after any SiO2 products, so make sure to go over them with a clean and dry microfiber. The photos above come from a thread where High spots happened after using Ceramic Boost 2.0. However, the most serious and hard to remove is created by CC.
 
If you notice any high spots while your CC is still curing, some people say you can simply use some BG to remove them. I have not tried that. If your high spots have fully cured, it is more than likely that you will have to polish in order to get rid of them.
 
I will look for a video that I think explains this process well.
 

Good call, JR. 
I've heard a 1:1 Shampoo to Water. But I dont know how I feel about that. I think I would just use the DS. And use either SW or H20 GG as a drying aid until I bought more DS. 
 
MAybe somebody else has experience with creating their own solution. Good catch!

This video should be pretty good in terms of detailing the steps
 
Make sure to use detail spray as a lubricant when you use your clay bar. 
 
For protection Tlbullet mentioned spray wax which would be a good option. Also you have H20 Guard and Gloss which will also protect, but again there are longer lasting protections out there.
 
I also am curious as to what is behind your Leather and Interior cleaner.

Hey Marcus,
 ill give you my opinion..everybody has their own method!! Find what works for you.  
I would clean wheels n tires first. Then...
1. Wash car
2. Iron remover (can use diluted WC) 
3. Clay bar vehicle 
4. Polish. (I see you have all 3 polishes, if you want to correct swirls/scratches i highly recomend using SK or similar machine).  U may not need to start with CP, depends on how perfect you are trying to get ur paint but def finish with FP (white pad). 
5. Ipa/prep wipedown
6. Protective layer (wax, lps or CC). I see you have spray wax, would def recommend another longer lasting option).  I love the CC.  Def more involved for application.  
 
Good luck

Correct. There are two steps to applying the ceramic coating after you have followed the many steps of prep work.
 
Application: This is where you apply it to the paint using a specific medium. The recommended technique is to put a small amount on application block/towel/microfiber applicator (depending on which ceramic coating product you have. CSC you can use either a towel or the microfiber applicator, and for the regular paint CC, you use the application block that should be included in the kit). A cross hatch pattern is recommended for applying from the applicator block/towel/microfiber applicator to the paint in small 2' x 2' portions of the paint. The cross hatch pattern is basically just to ensure coverage of the whole 2' x 2' portion of the paint. Then you wait the amount of time specified for the product to flash. You'll see it becomes to rainbow and look like oil on water while it's "flashing" on your paint. Leveling/Removal of Excess product: This takes place after you have allowed the product to flash. Using a towel (Adam's has Suede Removal Towels) you go over the product that you applied in the last step and remove all the excess, it should look pretty shiny. It shouldn't take too much effort or elbow grease. It normally levels off pretty easily. Make sure you take the time to get every part of the paint where CC was applied. I use this step also as a way of leveling or getting the product to be spread to an even layer. After all this you leave the coating to cure, preferably indoors, for an extended amount of time, dependent on the product you choose. You'll hear people talk about high spots. High spots will happen if you skip this step or if any of the CC that was applied doesn't get leveled/removed. They look like the following:  
Note: High spots can happen after any SiO2 products, so make sure to go over them with a clean and dry microfiber. The photos above come from a thread where High spots happened after using Ceramic Boost 2.0. However, the most serious and hard to remove is created by CC.
 
If you notice any high spots while your CC is still curing, some people say you can simply use some BG to remove them. I have not tried that. If your high spots have fully cured, it is more than likely that you will have to polish in order to get rid of them.
 
I will look for a video that I think explains this process well.
 

I used interior detailer on mine for that reason, and it cleaned up pretty good. I suppose you could go over it with APC first and then ID?

Hey guys! 
 
Pretty proud of how my latest upload to YouTube came out. I took a VERY neglected first generation Jeep Grand Cherokee SRT8 WK seat and restored it in two stages. I masked off half of the seat and then masked the remaining half in half as well (sounds confusing but I used three strips of masking tape to mask off three different sections of the seat). I left one entire half covered and cleaned/condition sections of the remaining sections and the before/after results were INCREDIBLE. I honestly wasn't expecting the results that I got! See the video below and if you liked it, I'd really appreciate if you gave it a like!
 
 
In the video, you'll see the following products used: 
Leather and Interior Cleaner Leather Conditioner Carpet and Upholstery Cleaner Cockpit Brush Interior Detailing Brush Interior Scrubbing Mitt Edgelss Utility Towel Premium Interior Dressing Applicator  
I don't yet have the before and after photos of the rear bench seat as mentioned in the video, but I'll get them ASAP! 
 
Thanks for looking! 

Hey Steve, 
 
Glad we could take care of you! 
 
Keep on shining! 
 
colton@adamspolishes.com  

If this is on a garaged car your method BG followed by wax is a good plan. If your car sets outside then I would do BG, PS then you could follow up with wax.
Now all this being said, I would really consider skipping all of these steps and use our New Ceramic Spray Coating, more shine & protection.
 
https://adamspolishes.com/shop/exterior/ceramics.html

That's great, you just saved me a step and like 20 minutes. lol

 
 
Haha well we both learned we can skp that step.

Good luck, I'm excited to see the finished product.

Hi Bill, the Revive is indeed a polish, not much protection there.  However, it cleans the paint and offers a significant gloss upgrade.  I'd also suggest using the Buttery Wax, then, every few months, add a coat of Brilliant Glaze.  Putting the Glaze right over the Wax won't net much more gloss or additional protection.  
 
Let's see the Vette!

I go through a ton of waterless wash, it's my wife and I's go to product for getting bugs, bird bombs, etc. off ASAP (we carry it in the cars with us along with a couple of waffle weaves for this purpose).
 
I have never really done a full car with waterless, but would be comfortable doing it if the car just had dust/fallout kind of stuff on it.  Wouldn't be comfortable with anything much heavier.
 
Rinseless, on the other hand, I have been using for years since Optimum No Rinse (ONR) first came out.  It's still hard for me not to accidentally call the Adam's stuff ONR.  All you really need is a bucket, rinsless, and about 5-10 super plush microfibers (I use a bunch of "cookie monster" ones I've had for a few years but will probably switch to double softs when it's time to replace them).  About my only lament is that it's difficult to properly rinseless (or waterless for that matter) wash wheels and tires, so at least in the warm months I have to do a full water wash with wheel cleaner, APC, etc. to get all the brake dust off the wheels every couple of weeks.
 
All in all the revolution in emulsifying/encapsulating type products in the last decade or so has certainly made keeping a great looking car easier on a daily basis.

No issue. But realize if it's etching polish may not completely remove them.

I did actually wash and dry the car after the clay bar, just because of all the residue remaining, but realize now that the finishing polish probably would have taken that off - but I know it's clean!  LOL
 
I finished the process through the finishing polish yesterday.  I did notice that there were some water spots on the trunk area when I started the polish step, and afterward they were entirely removed by the finishing process.  Car looks great right now, and I'll be putting a coat of Adams Ceramic paste on this afternoon.  It's in the 50's today - is there any issue with applying the ceramic paste at temps in the 50's? (indoor garage).

Took the snowblower out of storage. Summer's a month away???? I was golfing over the weekend...in shorts!