BRZN

Here's a pic of mine taken with a friend a few years ago. Mine's the one on the right...

As stated above, tough to tell from the pics. If it is a poor paint job, I'd try the wet sanding if it were mine. http://www.adamsforums.com/topic/30938-chrysler-nationals-at-carlisle-july-15-17/?p=485286 If it's not something you're comfortable doing yourself, check with local body shops or detailers in your area.

I'd ventured out around 1:30 Tuesday afternoon to start cleaning up. Snow didn't look too bad until I got a shovel into it. The snow started to mix with sleet around 4:00am and smashed down, the probably, 20" we had to what you can see here, then the Hellish wind picked up with gusts up to 40mph. This stuff was back breakingly heavy, and obnoxious where there were drifts to move. I didn't finish until 5:00. I was smart enough to go out for necessary supplies Monday evening; gas for the snow blower and two six packs of beer!

Paint is slick with no ceramic coatings, two coats of Patriot with a base layer of Brilliant Glaze, a second layer of Brilliant Glaze is sandwiched between the layers of Patriot, and one final layer of Brilliant Glaze as a top coat. That's on the real BRZN, the GMP 1:18 scale model in the picture just has some Detail Spray on it. LOL!

Not bad, had the GTO out this morning

Don't know, you'll have to ask Adam. Think this way; the solvent in the bottle of Glass Sealant is keeping the active ingredient in suspension. If you apply the product, and wipe it off right away, some of the solvent is still there, in essence, wiping the active ingredient right off. By allowing the product to cure, the solvent will evaporate leaving only the active ingredient on the glass to buff off. If you're happy with the results you're getting by wiping off immediately, continue your process. This isn't rocket science, only auto detailing...

Try just cleaning your wipers first. If it was me, I'd just wait 200 miles of wet weather driving, or a couple/few washes to make sure it's off, then reapply to clean glass.

Let the Glass Sealant cure. The denatured alcohol (I believe is the solvent) in it needs to fully dissipate. I wait about three minutes before buffing off. Clean the blades of your wipers. Use Windshield Washer fluid on a paper towel and wipe them until no black comes off. Replace the wipers if necessary.

Sorry Lee, missed your question. As per this thread, I've Ceramic Coated my wife's wheels on her Volvo and want to see how the coating holds up on them before I put the coating on the aluminum, wheels. I did have some Ceramic Paint Coating on the raw forged aluminum wheel barrels, but removed it last weekend. My slight fear is, (this being more of a show than go car) if I pick up a stone and it beats around inside the barrel, will it chip the Wheel Coating? If it does chip will the chip be noticeable? Will moisture get under it and give a hazy appearance to the area surrounding the chip? I could polish the Paint Coating off, the Wheel Coating, being much harder, would need sanded off. I really don't want to take sand paper to these wheels again. http://www.adamsforums.com/topic/23540-my-turn-restoringpolishing-billet-aluminum-rims/?hl=brzn Right now if I get a mark on them I can correct it. Oh, and the wife's Volvo wheels appear to be holding up nicely, with no noticeable chips through the NE winter. I did get them polished up nicely:

Pulled all four wheels and gave them a nice touch up with Adam's Metal Polish #2 1.5 hours per wheel. There is no Ceramic Coating on these right now.

Helps the backing plate spin more freely on the first gen Rupes. The Mark II's spin freely right out of the box.

I have the washer mod only on my two Rupes ES machines, I find it's not needed on the Mark II or Swirl Killers. The washer Mod frees up the backing plate to allow it to freely spin, not to cause forced rotation as stated above. Not sure why it would be a warranty issue, this shouldn't harm the machine in any way. You don't need to purchase a specific kit, just get the correct sized washer from your local hardware store.

Gary, what you've got in those pictures sure appears to be chrome, not raw aluminum. Chrome is a very hard and durable coating over another material, in your case, could be over steel, or plastic wheel covers. Adam's Metal Polishes will dramatically help improve the appearance of chrome by removing oxidation, rust spots, and other contaminants, bringing up an awesome shine. It won't however, do much to remove anything but the slightest of marring on the chrome itself. For that, as you've found, you'd need a more aggressive metal polish and polishing media. Adam's Metal Polishes, used on softer metals like raw aluminum will cut, and correct, leaving a near flawless surface as well as add the required shine to the metal.

I've ceramic coated the wheel barrels and back of the spokes, but not the faces. I've never been able to be 100% satisfied with the wheels outward appearance and don't want to hinder myself from polishing them. I wipe the wheels down after every drive with a very liberal amount of Waterless Wash using an individual Waterless Wash specific towel on each wheel. The brake dust does come off the ceramic coated portion of the wheels much easier than the faces and no new marring is seen from their wipe downs in the barrels. How to prep for coating them? Polish to your satisfaction and then follow the instructions as for any other wheel type.

Mold will grow if the applicator is stored inside the wax pot after it's been opened and used. The mold spores need moisture, warm temperatures, and food, after use, you've provided the moisture and food and how/where you store the pot appears to be providing the warmth. Clean the applicator thoroughly after use and store it, dry, in a dry dust free place. keep the lid on the wax during storage and keep the pot in a cool dry location. The applicator may be destroyed now, has the foam broke down and sluff off? If so, throw it away and get another. If not just wash it out. The wax is fine, I'd say use it as it is. not like the wax will start to grow on your vehicle if used. If you don't like that suggestion scrape out the mold spots with a knife. FYI, mold spores have very long "roots", removing the black won't mean you got it all out, just the "blooming" part. Keep the lid on the wax and store it in a cool, dry location and it shouldn't continue to grow. I keep my waxes in my garage refrigerator.

3rd of 4 of our driver cars detailed inside and out within 7 days at the end of February in the northeast. Insane weather here. I did this one in shorts and a sleeveless T-shirt! It was in the 70's!!! The Malibu was topped with H2O Guard & Gloss, as were the others.

It's a very fine and capable machine. I've used the prototype machine from about April of last year through the release of the sale version. The sale version has a few upgrades from the prototype and is perfectly fine for corrections. I'd had the machine for testing purposes, and not showing it but... I was comparing it to other machines in this detail: http://www.adamsforums.com/topic/31635-adams-2009-chevy-silverado-3500hd-dually-club-cab/ and this one: http://www.adamsforums.com/topic/30938-chrysler-nationals-at-carlisle-july-15-17/?p=485286 and here: http://www.adamsforums.com/topic/30755-full-on-detail-wifes-volvo/

Saturday and Sunday temperatures in the Northeast hit the mid 70's! Took care of these two, both topped with H2O Guard & Gloss Saturday full exterior plus Floor Mat's and windows: Full exterior and interior. I did the outside, Michelle (youngest daughter/owner) took care of the inside:

The foam on the ball and cone is fairly aggressive. Try it in an inconspicuous spot first, and don't spend too much time in one spot. It was way too aggressive for raw aluminum and made marks. I've also removed clear from a wheel with a cordless drill, an Orange Foam Pad and PCP.

The Clear on most wheels is pretty thin, and easy to go through, so be careful. With the intricacy of those wheels Brian, the only choice I see other than by hand would be the Rupes Nano. A cordless drill set up with a 4" backing plate may get the front face. Trying to get the drill down into the nooks and crannies you'll risk touching the drill to the wheel.

Yea Brian, I did the barrels too. Check out the attached link at the beginning of the thread, it'll take you to the write up I did regarding my procedure. Did that on purpose Joel Figured it'll help bring more folks into the thread!

Yea, the vehicle's Trim still looks like it did when I first applied it.

Well, except for use on customers cars once I have all my own vehicles wheels coated with his Ceramic Wheel Coating. I believe all I'll need from now on is just soap and water! I coated the wheels on my wife's Volvo just before Christmas, and haven't had the opportunity to wash the car since then. It's been two months, and this is her daily driver that's outside 24/7/365. http://www.adamsforums.com/topic/32053-ceramic-wheel-coating/ Temperatures here in the Northeast are in the high 50's low 60's this weekend, so her car got a nice detail including a wipe-down application of HGG. I started the detail as I always do, with the wheels. They looked ridiculously clean to start with, we had the car out in the rain last weekend for a 160 mile round trip outing. I sprayed the inner fenders, tires and wheels off with clear water from the hose and noticed most any dirt still on the wheels roll right off. Odd, there was no beading of the water on the wheel surface. I washed the wheels with just Car Shampoo and water from my prepared bucket. Once everything I'd sprayed down prior to sudsing up was taken care of I rinsed it all off. The wheels were perfectly spotlessly clean! Oh, and once wiped off with the soapy water the beading was back to the wheels and brake calipers that had all be Coated in December. Game changer? Not enough time with the coating to say so yet, but it sure took time and effort off of the wheel cleaning.

The shine to the wheels once coated wasn't any more than after a Wax or Sealant application.

Sounds like my wife!