BRZN

I spray the HGG directly to all my glass exactly as I do on the paint. No issues what so ever.

It's a strong detergent, specifically formulated for the types of chemicals used in auto detailing. Works just fine at removing H2O Guard & Gloss if used like this; http://www.adamsforums.com/topic/31612-use-to-be-a-fan-of-h2o-gg/?p=493785

Wanted to put these up in my post yesterday, but Photobucket was having issues. Anyways... These wheels hadn't been cleaned for three months, I cleaned them Sunday. I used just shy of 16 ounces of wheel cleaner to go from the first pic to the last. My guess; 4 ounces on the fronts, and 3 ounces on the rears. Faces, spokes and barrels cleaned. I snapped some shots of the LF: Again, there's too many variables to state how much product is too much.

How much Wheel Cleaner is too much? That's kinda' like asking how much shampoo is too much to use when you wash your hair, there's too many variables.

If the seats are clean enough to be cleaned with the Leather & Interior Cleaner cut 3:1 you'll be just fine using only the Interior Detailer as both the cleaner and conditioner.

Nice!

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Don't have to, no. Not once you've done a test section and know what it'll take to achieve your desired results. and Correct, use the BG to quickly remove the polish residue prior to wax OR sealant application.

Right, the PCP is the tougher of the two to remove. The Brilliant Glaze wouldn't be needed to remove the PCP residue if you are going to follow it up with the PCP. Any glaze you lay down today should remove any remaining dried polish residue. It was just being pushed around by the towel when using the buffer. Had you wrapped a microfiber towel over a pad on a buffer or polisher to try to remove the polish residue? If this method was still just pushing the product around leaving an oily residue, you may have been working with too much product. By the time you did the towel on your buffer/polisher, then went to, by, hand removal you may have thinned it down and allowed enough time for it to dry some making it now easier to remove. As I'd stated above, the of PFP has a longer "open" time than his old Fine Machine Polish. Yes, often times I'll use the Brilliant Glaze to remove the polish residue. Makes no difference if you're going to lay down Sealant next or Wax over the Glaze. Sorta' depends on the amount of time you have and the size of the vehicle. For me cutting or combining steps that still give me my desired result just makes sense.

Car looks good! The current version of Adam's PCP can be a bit tough to remove at times. I'll go right over it with the PFP and follow that up with Brilliant Glaze. If I find no need to use the PFP I'll remover the PCP with Brilliant Glaze. The Brilliant Glaze makes the polish residue almost effortless to remove. The PCP and PFP both have longer open, or work times than his old Swirl and Haze Remover and Fine Machine Polish did if that's what you're used to.

I'm the care taker of Adam's truck right now here on the east coast, and it was in need of some major detailing attention! I picked it up in Ramsey, MN a few weeks ago. It was there having a larger awning attached to the trailer we use at several shows. I flew out of Harrisburg, PA on a Friday afternoon, connected in Charlotte, NC and ended up in Minneapolis, Minnesota after dark. I made my way to Ramsey via Uber to stay over night in the local Comfort Suites. A short half mile walk in the rain early the following morning and I made my way to the rig to start my 1,100 mile journey back to Carlisle, PA. Somewhere just east of Chicago, IL Saturday afternoon, the sky's had finally cleared: Sunday afternoon I had the trailer placed in its spot for the following weeks Fall Carlisle Swap Meet and Collector Car Corral. The new awning is awesome! It's 20' out from the trailer vs. the 12' the old one is. This allows us to now have six tables of product set up along with two three sided racks of towels, brushes, and other accessories under complete cover, still leaving ample room to walk around. The 12' awning set up is still in the trailer and available for use at smaller shows and events. Fall Carlisle ended, we loaded up the trailer, make arrangements to leave it over winter on the fairgrounds, and I brought the truck home with me. The vehicle needs some service, and as I'm only an hour from Carlisle, and the one orchestrating the Carlisle Events, it just made sense for me to deal with it. Well it was filthy, inside and out. I washed it once in 2015, and I believe the Adam's employees did something with it while it was in Colorado last winter, as there were obvious tape marks down the center of the roof and hood, but nobody's touched it since. I believe I recall seeing it in a demo video for something they filmed last winter. In 2016 it came to Carlisle from CO for the Ford National's in June, went to Columbus, OH for The Goodguys Show there, back to Carlisle for the Chrysler Show, then after Corvettes at Carlisle it headed west to Effingham, IL for the Mid America Corvette Show there. After Mid America off to Ramsey, MN where I picked it up to bring it back to Carlisle. This truck's big, real big. 2009 Chevy Club Cab Silverado 3500HD One Ton Dually. 6.6 Liter Duramax Diesel, with a Detroit Allison Transmission. A couple/few evenings of labor for a week, 32 ounces of Leather & Interior Cleaner, some APC, VRT, In & Out Spray, Interior Detailer, Carpet & Upholstery Cleaner, Glass Cleaner and I got the inside looking fairly respectable. All Leather received a good, and well needed, conditioning with Adam's Leather Conditioner. Yea, the seat belts are dirty, what of it? Saturday I began to wash the vehicle. I first used my pressure washer to remove the bugs from the front. Oh, notice how the low beams are on? I'd just replaced the burnt out right one. Foam Cannon with 3 ounces of Strip Wash was laid down and allowed to dwell for several minutes. Another 2 ounces of strip wash in my wash bucket followed and she was cleaned with the two bucket method. Wheels, Tires, Mud Flaps, and Inner Fenders/Wheel Wells were cleaned and dressed. APC, Wheel Cleaner, Tire & Rubber Cleaner, Undercarriage Dressing, Tire Shine (all six tires), VRT, and Quick Sealant (yes I still have several cans stashed away ) The next week I was away for my day job until Wednesday. Once home I cleaned the door jambs, and in around the doors and hinges. There was way too much grease on the door hinges, and rust proofing was over sprayed in many places. 16 ounces of APC to get them looking okay. I had to keep telling myself, "this is a work truck, not a show truck". LOL! I also dressed all the rubber door seals with VRT. Thursday and Friday evenings I clayed the truck, including all the glass. The Strip Wash did a pretty decent job of removing a lot of the contaminants on the paint. However, I still destroyed a brand new Visco Clay Refill. I took care of a bit of damage on the passenger's side of the bed. Something had fallen across it and left a dent, deep scratches, removed some clear, and broke off the amber side marker. This truck appears to have been repainted, so guess what's under the clear coat that's coming off? the OEM clear! Saturday and Sunday were spent polishing. I addressed the chrome and stainless exhaust exhaust tip early before all the dew was off the paint. I used my Rupes Mini with the Blue Foam Metal Pads and Metal Polishes #'s 1 & 2. Before: After: Since the truck was sitting outside it got wiped down several times with Waterless Wash; before claying, and before any polishing. No need to add any more scratches, swirls, or holograms than it already had. I dressed all the exterior plastics and trim with a heavy coat of VRT and/or In & Out Spray. This was done to protect those areas from Polish or Sealant staining them in case I touched them, it worked well. Test panel: Before: After: Yea, that'll do! Flex XC3401VRG, Orange Microfiber Pad, Paint Correcting Polish; one step, two passes on most panels, that's it. In tight areas I used the Rupes Mini, or Rupes Nano Long Neck, and on big flat surfaces like the roof and hood I broke out the Rupes Bigfoot21 Mark II. Passenger's side front door: Sunday afternoon one coat of Paint Sealant was laid down using my Porter Cable 7424XP and a Grey Foam Pad. Kyle, who helps at some of the Carlisle Events, stopped by to lend a much appreciated hand. Brilliant Glaze was applied to the Clear Bra Material, Quick Sealant was applied to the entire front end as well as to all chrome and stainless. I also applied Quick Sealant to the plastic headlights (I'd polished the headlights and tail lights too), Glass Sealant was applied to the windshield, and the exterior glass was cleaned with Glass Cleaner using the new microfiber glass cleaning towels. Just for kicks and to pass time while we downed a beer, we applied a layer of Buttery Wax to the hood and top edges of the front fenders. Adam had sent me some DOT registration stickers for the truck: I installed them prior to applying the Paint Sealant: Where the stickers went I polished that area to perfection. Figured another polisher wasn't going to be touching that area any time soon. In this area I followed up the Orange Microfiber Pad with an Orange Foam Pad and Paint Correcting Polish, then a White Foam Pad with Paint Finishing Polish. Done! Final touch:

Nice!

Claying or the use of Revive Hand Polish will work wonders if you notice them still there after you're done drying the vehicle.

That can't be working. Vinegar has a ph of around 3, being acidic, and APC would have a ph of above the neutral ph of 7 into the alkaline side of the scale. By mixing the two you end of canceling each out. Be very careful of mixing chemicals...

By the nature of the HGG being water activated, they're tough to clean. Don't give up on the product or towels yet guys. I have dedicated Borderless Grey Towels for HGG and they are not washed in the family washing machine for fear of coating the inside of the drum with the product and ruining other things then washed in the machine. They're also not washed with other microfiber towels. I use the towels by first running then under warm water at the sink to saturate them, and will then place them in the bucket of warm, clear water and work them until I know they're completely saturated. When finished applying the product, I rinse them at the garage sink under warm running water, then place them in a bucket of warm, clear water and wring out as much product as I can. Dump the bucket, refill with warm water (two gallons), and this time add 1 ounce of MRB. I work/agitate the towels, then let them sit in the bucket for an hour or so. After they soak I wring them out, refill the bucket with two gallons of warm water, and another ounce of MRB. Now I'm agitating to wash them, wring out the product and water, rinse thoroughly, wring dry, then hang to dry. Vinegar will not help, Vinegar's an acid and would be used to remove minerals, a strong detergent is needed to remove the HGG, like Adam's MRB. I'm still using the same Borderless Grey towels since the product was released, and I'm deep into my second gallon of the stuff!

I can adjust the air/water flow by adjusting the air compressor's regulator, or by not turning open the Tornador's valve the whole way open while in use. The machine works best at 100psi though. I'm not saturating anything, aim directly at the dirty area and the compressed air blows much of the water back out as it cleans. If it's held at an angle the water doesn't get hit with enough air to be blown back out.

Xpel Clear Bra on my 2006 GTO since spring of 2008. I treat it just like the paint. I've machine polished it with Paint Finishing Polish using White Foam Pads on the Porter Cable with speed setting of 3. I've clayed it, and regularly use Brilliant Glaze on it. It still looks pretty much like it did when installed eight years ago.

Nice!

Hey, if you're in the area of the Carlisle Fairgrounds next week from Wednesday through Sunday stop on by and restock yourselves for this coming Fall and Winter! We'll be on the Midway Row IE spaces 126-130. You won't be able to miss us, Adam's giant inflatable Detail Spray Bottle will be set on-top of our trailer. Stop on buy to see product demos, ask questions, and for advice of the experts. We'll have show specials and discounts too!

This is my company car, and, well, I despise it! There's been no LSP put on this vehicle in 2016; no wax, no sealant, no H2O Guard & Gloss, no nothing until the Wash & Wax Sunday a week ago. I rarely even wash it.

I washed the car a week ago yesterday with Adam's new Wash & Wax. Rain was predicted last night, so before dark I cleaned the hood with his last version of Waterless Wash. The last version had no gloss enhancers, just cleaners, so it shouldn't have been able to create the beading on its own. Yup, it rained last night, and I snapped these two pictures this morning before I pulled away for the day. Again, this is seven days since it'd been washed and the car's outside 24/7/365.

5 hp, 26 gallon With an awesome filtration set up since the above pic was taken

I own a Tornador and love it. I fill it with Reverse Osmosis filtered water and about 4oz of Adam's Carpet & Upholstery Cleaner. I use it mainly for cleaning carpets and cloth seats. Things a beast.

I always have two bottles mixed up at 15:1 in a 16oz bottle. Mine is mixed with either distilled water or softened Reverse Osmosis filtered water, with never any issues with time. The only time I had a problem was with the color changing when mixed with straight tap water from my municipal supply.

I received my 16oz bottle of Adam's Wash & Wax Saturday and washed my Malibu Sunday morning placing 20z of product in my wash bucket along with 3 gallons of warm water (softened water). Here's my observations. The car was last washed the Sunday before, so wasn't very dirty. Water beaded some when rinsed down prior to washing from the HGG applied a month or more ago. Washed the entire car using the two bucket method, then rinsed the car off with softened water. Final Rinse with Reverse Osmosis Filtered water. The rinse water beaded up like a post wash rinse done right after the car had been waxed or sealed. I don't do a pooling rinse as I dry with my Master Blaster. There were beads everywhere; top, hood, trunk, glass, sides, no sheeting of the water. I dried the car with the Master Blaster and the water quickly blew off the slick surface. I then gave the car a quick wipe down with Detail Spray. This morning there was dew on the glass and roof, when I pulled away from the house the water all gathered and ran off the roof and glass just like the roof had been recently waxed or sealed and off the glass like I'd applied Glass Sealant to it. I didn't experience the same sheeting effect as in the video. In no way did it seem any of the previous HGG had been removed by the Wash & Wax Shampoo. I'd not taken any pictures during the washing of the car as I wasn't planning on doing a write up. I did snap these two after I was done. After the car was all dried and wiped down the paint surface has the same slick feel as having just been Waxed or Sealed.