BRZN

Nice!

Nice!

I think I may have caught a bit of that back in 2006 at 3:00 in the morning after coming home from a bar somewhere and passing out on the couch! Fun to watch and know how the company has grown in just the few years since then.

Quick Tips; Great idea Dylan, keeps things fresh.

Unless it's been polished out before thinning the clear or you notice areas the clear is starting to lift no. Treat it just like new paint. He want to sell it? I might have a buyer...

If it's the same material inside and out, couldn't you just turn it inside out?

Great job Mook and awesome write up...

Small stone chips? I usually don't wait any longer than overnight.

Textured at all, or smooth?

If that piece is plastic and has been factory painted, most likely the paint is very thin. Do not try to polsh the scratch out!

Do you have to? No, but it's a good idea as it can make the polishing go much better. The polishing step will remove any wax left on the vehicle, but the wax could begin to clog the pores of the pad making them much less effective. What about the clay step, you going to do that? If not, any contaminents remaining on the paint could be pulled into the pad causing some marring.

Erik, Most all of any paint transfer is going to come from the polishing steps. Once you have the paint corrected not much more should lift. If it does it should almost completely wash out if your washing the pads and towels correctly, if there's any staining left it shouldn't be of any real concern as it will be just that; staining, not ruined towels. MSS, QS, Americana and Buttery are all layed down onto the paint, not worked in like "Old School" waxes: so not much, if any, color should come up. As stated above DS wouldn't have any issue since the detail spray is being sprayed on your LSP not on the paint itself. What color is the car? Red is by far the worse I've worked with for color transfer, but still I just wash the towels and continue to use them with no concerns. Oh, and to follow up on my post #10. The Toyota Sienna Van came out nicely. I used the three pads; green, orange and white that were used on the red Ford Truck back in early October with no issues at all.

The company that sold me my water treatment system checks the water during the yearly service plan. They check for grains of hardness, dissolved minerals (solids) and chlorine. I'll bet if you take a sample of your water to someone that installs and services water systems they'd do it for you.

What brand of dryer sheet? Pick off the stuff you can, wash them with Adam's Microfiber Revitatizer and Brightener, boil them for 10 minutes with a capfull of Distilled White Vinegar, rewash them and they'll be as good as new. Anyone that wants to throw their microfiber towels out because they got fabric softener on them; I'll pay the shipping to send them to me

A real quick google search and I found this: Can salt from softening installations enter drinking water? Salt does not have the opportunity to enter drinking water through softening installations. The only purpose of salt in a water softener is to regenerate the resin beads that take the hardness out of water. I use softened water to wash/rinse my vehicles, there should be no concern that salt is simply replacing other minerials in the water.

A picture of what you want to polish would be helpful. It all depends on the texture of the metal you want to improve as to what it'll take. For example, the valve covers on my LS2 have a very rough, sand cast finish. To improve them it takes sanding before polishing.

Yep, 30 minutes for removal after application and 12-24 hours for it to fully cure, as there could be some hazing show up after the 12-24 hour wait time. I've not experienced the additional hazing and only wait the 12 hours before topping with anything else.

Well, it was REALLY clean. And some folks idea of clean is different than others.

Is the covering smooth like paint or rough/textured like a flat or matte finish? "Back in the Day" I used to race Hare Scrambles with a modified Suzuki Motocross bike. Silicone does help the mud to hose of; better than without. Prior to an event my bike would be completely sprayed down with WD-40. It was kept clean, not detailed, due to how and where it was used.

Revive and QS on all my cars door jambs. Then maintain them with WW.

Next time

Once, and only once I sprayed my Magnum off at the coin op car wash then pulled it out of the bay and used WW along with a Couple Great White Drying Towels to finish washing and dry. The towels became so dirty I knew I was past the point of the WW and was marring the paint too much: never did it again. Now if above 32*: Skull cap glove liners with Playtex Rubber gloves overtop Long Johns under my jeans two sweat shirts and a regular ole two bucket wash in the driveway

OP, I wet sand scratches with 1500, 2000, 2500 and finish with 3000. You have to make sure each step in progression removes the previous grits marks or they'll remain. The Green pad with SSR on the Flex will completely and quickly remove 3000 grit sanding marks. The PC will remove them with the Green pad and SSR; just takes a bit longer. I then just follow up with the Orange pad/SHR and White pad/FMP. I'll save the courser compounds for use on oxidized paint. Check out this post I threw up on a thread earlier this morning: http://www.adamsforums.com/forums/358080-post4.htm As Chris stated above, if your nail catches in the scratch you may not be able to completely remove it as it might be through the clear and into the base color. From the below picture you can see where I had to call it quits. The first shows scratches too deep to contine sanding and the second shows cracked clear; neither of these could be completely removed without further damage.

No sealant or wax with the weather we had in the NE yesterday, nothing would have cured, it would have been a waste of time and product. I was in the same situation you were. I'd done a strip wash on my daughters car Saturday and figured I'd clay it Sunday morning then Seal and Wax it in the afternoon. The misty fog never lifted in South Eastern, PA to allow me to finish the detail so I changed plans and worked on several scratches/scrapes that were on the car. As of now next Saturday may be the day protection gets put back on.