BRZN

That's how I use it.

Keep the speed at 3 and keep the pad moving.

Mook, We've met; make it four!!!

Yep, Dehumidifier! My oldest daughter left my wifes sunroof open one night and it rained 2+ inches: cup holders were overflowing with water. I removed the floor mats soaked up as much as I could with towels and the shop vac and backed the car up to the garage door with our dehumidifier running on full with the car all closed up. Damp Rid on the floor every night for a week or two. And large Desiccant bags under both front seats and in the spare tire well ever since. This happened Memorial Day 2011 and there is no mildew smell in this car: I have a pretty good sniffer, I work in the dairy industry and am trained to identify odors. My daughter hasn't driven the since!!!

From how I'm reading the OP you've already touched up the chips so the Dr. Color Chip and Langka Systems are too late. If you've sufficiently cleaned the chip of all old wax and any dirt and grease prior to touch up the paint should stick to the chip just fine: even after claying or polishing. Here's what I do with touch up paint blob removal. I use a very tight weave cloth, like a glasses lens cleaning cloth and wrap it tightly around a smooth plastic bottle cap. With the cloth tight, apply a drop of rubbing compound to the cloth and lightly rub the blob until it's level with the surrounding paint. Polish out the scratches left by the rubbing compound and forget about the clear. You'll only be able to use the clear if the touch up paint is applied below the level of the surrounding paint. Check out page 7 of the June 2011 SVGTO Newsletter for an article I wrote about touch ups.

I keep the red caps in my gallon refill jugs that I don't already have the pump in and have never had any troubles removing them. Those of you with problems may want to review this: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zVXcCU8JbRI&feature=player_detailpage]Grip and Forearm Workout No Weights: Home Workout - YouTube[/ame]

0000 Steel Wool and Metal Polish #1 followed up with Metal Polish #2.

How long ago did you purchase it and what was the paint restoration process? This car was corrected in July of 2011, waxed again in October of 2011 and nothing but two bucket washes since. The paint was still in good condition, so other than addressing a few individual scratches/marks it took nothing more than one pass of FMP with the Flex.

Nick/John, I've not used these pads since cleaning, but they rinsed clear and seem clean. I've only had one experience with foam pads and single stage paint. Threw the orange out (it was worn out) and cleaned and reused the white without issue that I can recall. The car was black but no where near as oxidized as the Ford Truck, so no where near as much paint in those pads as these. "Back in the day" late 70's early 80's every vehicle I did was single stage, but I was using wool pads on a rotary and we simply threw the pads in the washing machine with the towels. Never had issue with them but a different material. Foam material and cell design could be a factor. I've got a late model Toyota Sienna scheduled within the next couple/few weeks and will give the pads a try on it, if not before, and let you guys know how they worked.

Ruined, not hardly, stained: yea a bit. Nick, I brought them home just to see what I could do with them. The pads were soaked in 2oz of APC separately for several hours then cleaned just like any other pad. The Single Soft microfiber towel was soaked in an ounce of Microfiber Revitalizer overnight, wrung out, soaked again for a couple/few hours and cleaned in with the rest of my towels. The White pad has a bit more pink to it than my others have from just Detail Spray, but not much more. The Orange pad appears to have come completely clean. The Green pad has a pinkish hue in the center. The Single Soft has some pretty good stains left but is clean.

Please explain what the marks are that were left by the clay. Is it marring or scratching? Or simply clay residue left by the clay bar? If it's marring or scratching you'll need to polish that out as stated above. If it's residue left over from the clay bar; Detail Spray wipe down, a good washing or Revive Hand polish should do the trick. Oh, and I now do the baggie test on every car prior to waxing. You'd be surprised at how many brand new cars need a thorough claying!

Yep, what I said in an earlier thread. Zip the bag shut and place it in the hydrator drawer. Just a spritz or two of DS, you don't want to make the pad wet.

I'm still waiting on pics of Butch's wifes Escape! Nice meeting you too Butch.

Chris - I don't rewash the car after claying. I start the clay process on the roof and work my way down, wiping the panels off with a Waterless Wash or Single Soft Microfiber towel to remove the Detail Spray as I go.

The Dewalt tool you've got is a direct drive high speed rotary, not a dual action random orbital like the PC and Flex machines Adam's sells. I don't know if there is a comparison between rpm's (revolutions per minute) and opm (oscillations per minute).

You could try to polish it out, but it does appear from the picture the chrome has been compromised, not necessarily neglected. Try Metal Polish #1 followed by Metal Polish #2 on a Microfiber Applicator. Polish in the direction of the machine marks and wipe the polish residue off with an Edgeless microfiber Utility Towel. Good luck.

I use it on my daily drivers after a correction. And yes, it can be used in place of MSS and is much easier/quicker as it levels for wipe down in one minute (not 20 minutes) with a follow up/re-application/next product application 30 minutes later (not 24 hours later). I re-apply it to front bumpers, side skirts/rocker panels, door jambs, wheels and stainless exhaust tips after about every fourth wash. On the rest of the car it holds up for months!

Apc

Very nice turnaround for sure.

What Chris said.

It's a frost proof faucet that's about 18" long. It shuts off back inside the wall when you turn the handle where it's warm and it slopes down to the outlet from where it shuts off so all the water drains out to not freeze in the winter. That part of garage wall the faucet is through is actually into the ceiling of the basement and runs directly from the water softner. I've got another drain pet **** and shutoff inline in the basement ceiling incase the nights get really cold and I want to drain it more. Had a pipe burst once and it was a couple/few hours before I realized it, don't want to go through that again! Chris, You'll never know how and where I may have repurposed car parts

Picked up a spare tire mount from an RV dealer and took it to a machine shop to cut the back side of the round tube to fit flush to a piece of 1/4" steel plate. Holes drilled in the Steel Plate to accommodate the two U-Bolts from the spare tire mount so I could attach it securely and to run Lag Bolts through it to the wall studs. I drilled out the Dry Wall where the U-Bolts nuts were so they could recess through the wall and leave the plate steel flush.

Here's what I'd been using: 100' of hose, first 50' 5/8" last 50' 3/4" Here's what I've got now: 75' of the Goodyear 3/4" hose from Adam's Seems to take up the same amount of space as the 100' I'd been using on my homemade Pontiac 18" wall mounted hose reel.

Nice shots Justin, nice shots for sure. Great time hanging out those days and being able to be part of the team. World record time for Americana application by Justin and removal by me: 4:11, yes, four minutes and 11 seconds! Done on the Challenger just before Mark, it's owner, had to take off. Couldn't let him go without a nice coat of Americana after all the polishing.

Let's see, I buy a good quality new hose about every three years. Last one was a Swan 3/4"x75' Contractor Garden Hose for $44.98+tax at Lowe's and the one before that was a Gilmore 3/4"x75' Gilmore Contractor-Duty Hose for $53.76+tax at Lowe's. By the end of three years these hoses kink and collapse. The newest one that was used for the car gets rotated into the backyard for watering plants, etc...and the new replacement one gets used up front to wash vehicles. Adam's new Goodyear Commercial Grade Hose 3/4"x75" $109.95, less forum 10% discount of $10.99, plus flat rate shipping of $7.95, less the cost of the 32oz Car Shampoo I'll be getting at $19.95; comes to $86.96. The hose will pay for itself in five to six years based on what I'd been buying and with the lifetime guarantee I never need to buy another hose again. Ordered!