BRZN

I've used a fly swatter with a glass cleaning microfiber wrapped around it to get into tight areas. Do your glass last. It's easier to wipe the glass cleaner off your dash than the Leather Conditioner off your glass.

I've had success with the toothpick method as well as slowly going over the plugged up area with a vacuum using the upholstery attachment. One note of caution: Try either method in an inconspicuous spot first. Both the toothpick and vacuum can start to pull the underlying foam or material up through the holes making the issue worse.

This weekend, here in the Northeast, was fantastic for taking care of the car outside. Overcast with temperatures in the mid to high 60's with just a slight breeze from time to time. I started on Friday late afternoon by washing the front bumper. I sprayed it down with the hose then hit it liberally with Waterless Car Wash to soak the bugs while I prepped my first bucket. The first bucket was prepped to clean the bumper, side skirts and lower rear bumper and move onto the fender wells, hub caps and tires. An old wash mit is used on the bumper and side skirts as well as where may be needed on the wheels. The Fender Brush and Boulder Blonde Boars Hair Wheel Brush did the scrubbing of the tires, hub caps and wheel wells with the use of All Purpose Cleaner mixed 50/50 with water and Green Wheel Cleaner mixed with 30% water. The small Wheel Woolie was used to clean the grille and the larger one was used to get in the fender well where the Fender Brush couldn't reach. The Trim and Lug Brush was used to clean the front and rear emblems, inside the gas cap flap and, well, the lug nuts. The car got a strip wash with a combination of 6oz APC and 2oz of Car Shampoo in a two bucket, Grit Guard Bucket wash. On the top portion of the car I used the Merino Wool Car Wash Mit, while on the portions below the beltline I used a 9x9" Professional Car Wash Mit. The car was dried with my Master Blaster followed up with Detail Spray and a couple Waterless Wash Towels. Plans were to start to clay the car before dark but there were far too many chips on the car that needed touched up. The last time I washed the car I'd polished the chrome exhaust tip with Metal Polish #2, corrected a couple larger scratches and touched up quite a few chips, but not enough I guess. The touch up paint got to dry overnight before being touched with the clay. The pieces of trim between the windshield and A pillar were nasty, so was the rubber trim along the top of the driver's door. APC and a fingernail brush did a pretty good job at cleaning them. After shots are a bit further down. At first light Saturday morning I began to Clay the car, I did all the glass as well as the paint. Once that was finished I dressed all the rubber and plastic trim as well as the tires with SVRT and In & Out Spray. By doing this the only pieces I needed to tape off were those nasty plastic strips between the windshield and A pillars. The areas between the roof rails and side window glass I took care of by hand with an old Flip pad. I used Swirl & Haze Remover followed by Revive Hand Polish. The SHR Revive combo did such a good job I also used the combo on the black on the doors at the B pillar and the rear spoiler, they really came out nice too! I broke out the Flex XC 3401 VRG Polisher. I'd done a full correction to this car in July of 2011 and been doing two bucket washes ever since. There wasn't much correction needed. One full pass with Fine Machine Polish on the White Pad with the Flex set to speed 5 was all that was needed to bring this Daily Driver's paint back to almost flawless condition. I used some old Adam's Clear Polish to bring some life back to the Headlight Armor covered headlights. The entire car; door jambs (including the rear gate and hood areas), headlights, tail lights, chrome exhaust tip, the flat black pieces on the doors at the B pillar and rear door behind the glass and spoiler, and hub caps had Quick Sealant applied with the Red Hex Grip Applicator. After the QS was applied a Single Soft Microfiber Towel was used to level. I was really suprised how nice the flat black pieces came out with the QS, wax leaves them splotchy. Next came an application of Glaze using the Porter Cable 7424 XP set to a speed setting of 3. To finish off the paint I applied a thin coat of Americana Paste Wax and removed it with a Double Soft Microfiber Towel. First thing this morning I applied Invisible Undercarriage Spray Dressing to the fender wells and leveled it out with an old microfiber towel. I wiped the paint down with Detail Spray a Great White Drying Towel and a couple Waterless Wash Towels. All the glass was taken care of with Glass Cleaner and a Glass Cleaning Towel. The rear and side glass along with the window vent shields got an application of Brilliant Glaze from a Red Hex Grip Applicator (really makes the tint pop!). Glass Sealant was applied to the windshield. Enjoy the pictures: Afters (SVRT on them this morning): Perfect? Hardly, but considering a majority of the car's 86,000 miles have had my sweaty arm pit resting on it, not bad.

Mikey, They're like a Mitt on a Stick! With three sizes there's hardly anywhere they can't reach. Oh, and nice wheels.

Hair Dryer 12 lb test monofiliment line Fingernail Goo Gone IPA Clay Bar 4" focus pads on the pc: Green pad w/SSR Orange Pad w/SHR White pad w/FMP "Stuff" to remove any remaining polish residue Buttery Wax & Yellow Hex Grip applicator Couple of Adam's Single Soft microfiber towels Two Beers

Wife was working late and I got bored waiting for someone to cook my dinner! 2007 Dodge Magnum with 86,000 miles on her. Daily Driven Company Car that's parked outside 24/7/365. Just the ever most slightest of ghosting where the letters were removed and you'd be hard pressed to find it unless the light was just right and you were at the correct angle to it.

If the scratches aren't very deep, polishing will round the edges and make them so much less visable they will be all but gone. However, if you can catch your finger nail on them the only practical way to completely remove them is by wet sanding. Show car: I'd break out the sand paper. Daily Driver: polish them. Problem with a daily driver is once you remove the one scratch you're bound to get or find another one! It's like chasing your own tail.

Dylan's idea is a simple one, and I used that way for a while. As Vink70 stated the Car Shampoo is thick and coats whatever it hits, and does so with the measuring cup too. I now had a measuring cup I'd have to throw in the bucket with the wash mit to rinse out. My bottle marked with tape and slash marks by no means is accurate for measuring something that needs to be precise, but not bad for Car Shampoo. Tim's idea of a measuring cup on the outside of the bottle like a beer coozy isn't a bad idea, but how about a measuring cup that affixes itself to the lid? Still have a little cup to rinse out, but a pretty good idea. The Sta-Bil bottle LFairbanks mentioned is a pretty slick idea. When mine's empty I might give it a try. Only drawback might be that with the Car Shampoo, being as thick as it is, might not squeeze over into the measuring side very easily: especially if it's cold.

Made my own. Took an empty 16oz bottle and put water in it eight times, with 2oz at a time. After every 2oz of water were added, turn the bottle upside down and place a slash mark on a piece of masking tape attached down the side. Once a complete 16oz of water was added set the bottle right side up and mark how full to put the Car Wash Shampoo. Empty the water and refill it to the 16oz line with Car Shampoo.

I zip mine closed so the pad won't dry out.

I do the pad in the fridge thing, sometimes for a week or more at a time. I spritz them with DS, place them in a Zip-Loc type bag zipped shut and leave them until I'm ready to start on the next panel. I've never had any issue or problem with this. Like Mook stated: clean the polish residue out as best as you can with a conditioning brush first.

I can get to most of my bumper's surface with the standard size pads on the PC or Flex. For the tough to reach areas I'll either use the Orange Hex Grip pad with SHR followed up with the Blue Hex Grip pad with Revive Polish. If there are some marks that need more attention the 4" focus pads on the PC work well. The emblems on this car I can stay away from and they don't have any sharp edges so I've never taped them off.

An older guy at the gym I belong to has been pestering me to detail (full on interior/exterior cleaning) his 2008 Cadillac SRX. My company car was in the shop Wednesday and I was pretty caught up on office work so I made arrangements to pick the beast up. 48,000 miles and fairly well taken care of. It was obvious it's waxed regularly from all the wax in the seams. A few bird bombs on the hood had been removed at some point with a paper towel, I'm sure, after they'd sat there and etched themselves deep into the clear. The interior was pretty nice. 4 3/4 hours and it was returned to a very satisfied customer. Cleaned the front end, Rocker Panels/Side Skirts/Lower part of the Rear Bumper. Cleaned the engine bay with diluted APC. Cleaned the Wheels, Tires and Inner Fender Wells. Tires were covered in Armor All and I'm guessing the inner fenders had been cleaned, at some point, with a pretty caustic cleaner due to their chalky stained appearance. Barrels of the wheels appeared to have never been cleaned. Two Bucket Wash to Exterior, Dried with the Master Blaster and followed up with DS and a few Waterless Wash Towels. All Door jambs cleaned using Waterless Wash. Engine Bay dressed with SVRT and In & Out Spray All Trim, Cowl, Door Seals, and Tires Dressed with SVRT Invisable Undercarriage Spray Dressing in Wheel Wells. Vacuumed the interior and took care of a couple/few spots on the carpet. Leather & Interior Cleaner to all the Leather inside, had to work a bit to get the driver's seat clean. Probably One Full Cow's worth of Leather in this thing! Leather Conditioner where needed. All Glass Cleaned. I talked with him about polishing it out next spring, we'll see...

Yea, you'll be fine. There shouldn't be any less paint with a single stage paint job than a base coat/clear coat paint job. I've used high speed rotarys and wool pads on single stage paint jobs with no problems.

Other than the old black edgeless utility towel I wash all my towels together. I pre-treat all spots with a 50/50 mix of APC and water and if a few of the towels are really dirty I may soak them in some mild detergent and water in a bucket overnight. When they hit the washer they either have Adam's Microfiber Revitalizer or some other mild detergent in with them. Stains are not going to effect the towel, be the stains from use or bleeding from another towel.

Tried to replace them on my last Brinkman. Ended up throwing it out and buying a new one.

I can't seem to remember to wait the 30 minutes after applying QS before putting anything over top. We'll see overtime if it really matters. I did two of my own cars over this past weekend and several panels on both may show my impatience.

Here's a trick that's worked for me. After cleaning the glass with Adam's glass cleaner and his microfiber glass cleaning towels I go back over the glass again with a single soft microfiber towel, almost buffing the glass with the single soft. If time permits I'll buff the glass with a single soft again the following day. I know it seems like overkill and a lot of extra work, but my glass seems to stay cleaner longer if I'm able to complete the above. I'd rather do this than a weekly cleaning of the glass.

Turn the crank in my back and my arm waves!

Time to give the wifes ride a little love, 2005 Volvo XC70. Washed it yesterday afternoon/evening. Clay bar this morning. SVRT on all the trim. FMP/white pad with the Flex (car's been well cared for since last correction more than a year ago). Revive Polish on Grey pad speed 3: Flex. Application of Quick Sealant. Hellacious Thunderstorm. The storm hit just as I finished wiping the Quick Sealant off the wheels.

Nice

Condensation as in dew from the air settling on it at dusk and dawn? Park it in a garage. Don't have a garage, you'll have dew. I wash my vehicles about every week since they're parked outside. The one in the garage stays clean unless driven.

Nothing better than a Wheel Woolie to reach inner fender wells where the Fender Brush just can't get to!

Sealant and wax mix like water and oil on applicator pads. I have seperate applicators for all my products even though I wash them after every use. I just can't get all the wax, sealant or BG out of the pads. I too mark the Hex Grip part of the applicators as to which product they're intended for.

Nice job! Been in Love with the '58 Impala ever since American Graffiti.