BRZN

No, the Leather Conditioner is not water repellent. It conditions leather to help keep it soft.

You sure that's rust? From the picture it almost looks as if the chrome has worn off to the copper underneath.

After washing and correcting, or simply prior to a fresh coat of wax my steps are: BG then Americana or Buttery With the GTO I'll top the American with another coat of BG prior to a show.

Nice numbers

Pictures would be helpful. If it's textured plastic you'll want to try a little in an inconspicuous place first as the polish could be pretty tough to remove.

You're fine. Just wash the vehicle and apply whatever LSP you'd already planned. Often times I run out of time to complete my personal cars details all at the same time and apply wax over Sealant, either MSS or QS, the following weekend. As others have stated the 12-24 hours is to look for any hazing, which I've never experienced.

Yep

Cameron, I too had used a rotary for years and was comfortable with it. It now only comes out for use with extreme conditions and is used with compounds and more aggresive pads. The Flex is almost as powerful as the rotary I use, but the chance of inducing holograms is nill due to its random orbital action. I experimented this past year with wet sanding scratches out working progressivly down to 2500 or 3000 grit paper, the Flex, Green pad, SSR combo was almost always able to clean up the sanding marks making paint correction so much quicker than breaking out the rotary first. My PC is now used primarily with the 4" backing plate attached to get into hard to reach, for the Flex, areas with the 4" pads.

I do, yes, and it's not much at all.

Mad Elf? Seasonal goodness!

Honestly, the first time I sat on mine, my thought was to add a sturdy cup holder to each side of the seat. Perhaps a bicycle water bottle holder. In front's an idea, but I think it might get in the way.

Dave, No paint on the wheels, they're gold colored plastic. What you see in that one picture is a bit of the rubber from the tire that came over the wheel when it was made.

Just giving the seat its due. It's a beast! Nick, you're starting to scare me... When I asked; my wife said, "you want me to take a picture of what?" followed up with, "you're certainly not going to post that on the internet!" As I smiled and ran to the computer giggling. No I don't Mook. I was looking at getting the Detail Seat until this bad boy was released.

Received one of these bad boys over the Holidays: Tail Bone Rough Rider and can't wait to put it to some good use. Sunday and Monday looks to break 32 and won't have any precipitation so I might be out there on it then. I've got my work cut out for me on my daughters' car, but that's for another write up. Anyways, first impressions of the seat... The rather large box arrived via FedEx which I tore into immediately. Inside I found the base, seat and a small box that included the hardware, and the three wheels on their casters. A few simple hand tools and 15 minutes later I was scootin' around the kitchen floor to my wifes dismay! This unit is the beefier of the two the company offers. It has large 5 1/4" wheels made to be able to roll over rough surfaces, extension cords and perhaps even a hose with no problems. The box states, "For Outdoor Use" and it sits 1 3/4" above the ground at its lowest point. There are eight bolts that hold the seat to the base. Four in the rear: and two on each side: The wheels came attached to their casters and are held on with four bolts each: Like I'd stated above the wheels are good sized at 5.25" each and have, sort of, a 1940's Art Deco look to them with their side skirts: The skirts should help to keep unwanted things from getting tangled up in the wheels. The same styling cues were used to the fenders that wrap over the wheels from the base: The seat height is 14" and seemed perfect as I rolled around the GTO in the garage for working on the wheels and areas below the cars beltline. Now, as for the seat, Oliver Wendell Douglas probably wished he'd have had one of these on his tractor! It's huge! Rated for 350 pounds? Can't imagine how a 350 pounder could get up out of the thing, but his butt should fit. I've got plenty of room to spare! Honey, any more of that Christmas pie left? I'll take another couple of pieces, I need to bulk up a bit!

Hang on, you've got your letters mixed up, there is no SSHR. System goes like the below: Green Pad - Severe Swirl Remover (S S R) Orange Pad - Swirl & Haze Remover (S H R) White Pad - Fine Machine Polish (F M P) If the Green Pad and SSR is too aggressive use the Orange Pad and SHR. If the Orange Pad and SHR isn't aggressive enough do a second pass with it. Still not aggressive enough? Use the Green Pad and SSR followed up with the Orange Pad and SHR. Remember, the Adam's system isn't "buffing" in the traditional sense. By using the Porter Cable or Flex Machines you're actually polishing.

Great write up as usual and nice pics to show the effort. Love how the black door posts turned out. Interior Quick Detailer? Search function here I come...

Nice!

I like it, great idea. Humm...

Use the FMP with the white pad on the PC. Use the Revive hand polish on areas you just can't quite get the PC into. Areas like A-pillars, around license plate, odd contours on bumpers, etc... I'll hand apply SHR by hand and follow that up with the Revive Hand polish. As stated, the FMP has a slight cut to it to properly finish your machine polishing, while the Revive has no cut; and my thought is that it has some slight fillers to help make it work better for hand application.

You're right Tony, you're wrong. Yes, the solvent in the BG will degrade the wax, and over extended uses remove it. However, for my show car, an application of BG over a coat or two of Americana can really only be best described by seeing it in person or trying it yourself.

GWC 70% to 30% water.

I, as many here, had been using the "M" brand for years (professional series) and I absolutely loved their Mirror Glaze #7. I'd applied it after polish and before wax. This spring I gave to to some guy from my gym after I realized I'd not touched it since BG was released. The ease of application and removal of BG made the use of Mirror Glaze #7 too time consuming to bother with. BG over top Americana makes my show car really pop applied just prior to a show. Mirror Glaze #7 applied over top wax has too much cut and removes the wax. I could go on...

Sand or Hairs in the paint? They'd have sunk too deeply into the paint while it was still wet to be able to sand out without removing the clear. I've wet sanded, or color sanded all of out current vehicles; from just a spot, to work out a deep scratch to entire panels. I also spot sand customers cars since it's much quicker than polishing out individual scratches that are deep. How do I know if they are deep enough to be through the clear? I don't, some are just minimized: experience, a guess, good luck and whoops are all part of the learning curve. As others have suggested start with a beater to get the feel of it.

My close neighbors know I'm a bit off, so they give me a wide berth and don't say much. The ones that don't know me very well, well, I run towards them with the hose on screaming, they don't say much after that. Huh, you know, they don't usually pass by the house anymore either...

Great write up, great pics, great job!