Dan@Adams

Welcome to the forum Lee! Man that is a gorgeous truck. I think you will be very happy with the products you purchased today, that's a great start! We thank your for your business and we hope that we can earn future sales with you as well. As you probably know, nearly all of our products are Made in the USA and we offer a 110% satisfaction guarantee on everything we offer. It's a fun, family oriented community here on our forum, with some extremely knowledgeable detailing experts. Please feel free to ask away with any questions you may have. Once again, thanks for signing up

Oh, and very nice job on the headlights Matt! They look much better and should light up the road more now too!

You should be able to use the Rupes Mini no problem to polish headlights in a similar manner as using a drill with the 4" drill backing plate adapter. Just make sure to give some cool down time in between polishing to keep the pads and backing plate on the Mini cool and keep the machine moving around the headlight so as to not generate too much heat in one section of the lens.

Hi Zach, I'm no doctor, but I can point you in the right direction. Click this link right here for access to a support page to help you out with your purchasing habits

Whoa! Looks great. I'm betting it would have taken me longer than 5 hours to clean that!

I've been able to remove about 95% of 1500-grit wetsanding scratches with the Cyclo, 2 orange microfiber cutting pads, and the Paint Correcting Polish on the very dark Indigo Blue Metallic paint on my truck - I'm talking I had to get really really close to notice them, so if they're pretty fine on your truck, then you should be good to go with the microfiber pads at speed 6 on the Cyclo

Hi Scott, I'm just catching up to everything in this thread. Yes, this time for the Mystery Box we're limiting it to 1 per customer, but on other mystery box sales we've allowed for more than one. That does look like a great starter list you have there, and as Joe said please feel free to give us a call tomorrow morning if you have any questions. I start answering phones at 730am EST

Sorry, I should have been more specific. I don't have any access to the attic from the ceilings of my house. There is an access hole in one of the bedroom closests, but it's sealed up. The attic does have ridge vent for adequate ventilation during the summer

Yeah, my bill is on a budget, so it will fluctuate from $100 one month to $19 the next sometimes, even during the hot summer months. It's just me living at the house though, so I have minimal lights and appliances running throughout the day My whole attic is sealed off, all of the cement block in the foundation and garage were drilled and foamed inside, as well as crazy foam insulation throughout the rest of the house, e-coat windows. In the middle of winter, I will still see snow on my roof when it has melted off all of the other houses in the neighborhood, which is a good thing as long as there isn't a foot of it up there! lol

My entire house is Energy Star certified and runs on electricity only - no natural gas or propane or anything. It has an electric heat pump with an auxiliary/emergency heat. Even when it's 5 degrees outside, the Nest barely ever clicks on the Aux. heat source. My electricity bill is typically around $50/mo during the winter too...I love how insulated this house is, lol.

Nice comparison James! I like using Waterless Wash for dust wipe downs and I love the blue Waterless Wash towels for this, but diluted Rinseless Wash works great too, as others have mentioned. The nice thing with Waterless Wash, I just grab it and go - no need to worry about if I mixed too much or too little Rinseless Wash into the distilled water to get the results I need on the first try. Plus it doesn't hurt that I had 3 gallons of Waterless Wash that I needed to use up, 2 of which were from past Mystery Boxes

Kourtney and I help out on the phones too

Very nice gesture Robert, you rock!

I've said it before and I'll keep saying it, beauftiful ride Matt!

Sold out at my local stores, and it won't let me add to cart on the website, in regards to the $18.88 platform. Oh well.

Sorry Robert, I have to disagree on this one. I just spoke with Dylan and it is NOT recommended to use our previous generation 4" pads with the plastic rim on the Rupes Mini. While they do barely fit over the backing plate, the plastic rim prevents full adhesion of the Velcro and can make the pads come off of the machine at 12mm of orbit. It has too much strength for the older pads, and as Dylan stated, it would be a "good way to have a really bad plate to paint accident", which you would absolutely want to avoid. Yes, the Cyclo uses the same diameter backing plate and the older generation pads are safe to use on it; but it also oscillates at a considerably lower speed than the Rupes Mini. I've personally tried out the 4" orange foam pad on the Mini before for some very small spot correcting for the Winter Prep Tundra write-up that I did, pressing down very firmly on the pad, but I could still feel it want to flex and wobble a little if I did not have the pad face perfectly flat with the surface. So we cannot safely recommend this as an option. For less than $33 dollars with the BF15 code right now, you can get 2 Gen5 4" orange foam and white foam pads, as a much safer alternative.

Nice, let us know if you need any help or have any questions about the order.

Gorgeous garage and rides! Wow, I'm almost speechless...love the keystones in the stone work, the race deck floor, the lift, the high ceiling that my detached is lacking, ceiling fans...consider me jealous!

Awesome, I'm so glad you are happy with it. See, I told ya you would love it You could give the orange microfiber pads a try on those deeper scratches, but like you said, you might do more harm than good if you already tried to attack them once before. It's not easy, but I've come to accept that I will probably only be able to keep my daily driver at 85-90% perfect in regards to the exterior appearance most of the time, but at least I know that even at that percentage, it's still going to look better than most vehicles out there

Hi Josh, some of our chemical products can indeed be affected by the cold and extreme heat in the negative sense and you do want to get them out of that cold garage. I actually move ALL of my 16oz bottles and gallons from my attached insulated garage into the warmer basement next to it, as my garage can dip down to the 45 degree range if I don't have the small infrared heater running. Here's a quote straight from a post Adam made on here: Great Question! Chemicals HATE temperature change. It's as important to avoid storing chemicals in a hot garage as it is to store them in a freezing cold garage. You will see chemicals separate, get watery, or clumpy after getting too hot or cold. What is officially too hot, or too cold? Below 50 degrees, and above 90 are temps that can cause the emulsions, blends, and surfactants to change. Once that temp changes, the chemical will not work the same, it may not mix together, and most always the color will change. Detail Spray - Dark Red VRT - Clear, and watery Buttery Wax - clumpy, like rotten milk Etc etc etc. Thanks for the question, and if possible, take all of your chemicals that you care about, and put them away for the winter if you live in a cold climate. Adam And here is the FAQ all about chemical shelf life and storage: http://www.adamsforums.com/topic/17083-faq-do-the-products-have-a-shelf-life/ Please let us know if you have any other questions and we'll be happy to help out

Ben Jammin certainly is the man! He and Kourtney have both taught me so much in the last month, I cannot thank them enough

I bought a Craftsman 1700psi electric pressure washer at Sears last year on Black Friday. It works well and hasn't given me any problems yet.

Indeed, Jason and Jake are correct. We would have had to reformulate to continue selling it in 2016, which costs significant R&D and testing, much like we did recently with the new In & Out Spray, and it unfortunately didn't sell well enough to justify it. Alternative options for protecting your wheels would be our Liquid Paint Sealant or HGG. I've been using LPS on the last few cars I've worked on.

I have a feeling Dave (BRZN) will post up in here in the morning, as he has a set of gorgeous CCW SP550's on his GTO that I'm going to steal borrow one day...but I digress... For light cleaning after driving to a show, Waterless Wash just like Chris said would be my choice too, but I would want to use the softest towel I could find for wiping down raw aluminum, so I would go with our Double Soft Towels over the new plush waffle weaves that we launched earlier this week. As for the Green Wheel Cleaner, I haven't tried it on a raw billet wheel, but you may have similar slight hazing issues that Dave describes in one of his threads here when he used Deep Wheel Cleaner to clean raw billet aluminum wheels: http://www.adamsforums.com/topic/23468-dwc-and-raw-billet-aluminum/

In all honesty, each polisher that we offer is a good machine, otherwise we wouldn't carry it, but some of them do have a higher learning curve, such as the Flex. To me, and others may disagree, the 3 best random orbital polishers for beginner to intermediate level hobbyists that Adam's offers would be the Porter Cable 7424XP, the Rupes LHR 15ES Bigfoot, and the Cyclo Model 5-Pro Mark II, with the Rupes 15 and the Cyclo edging out over the PC for ease of use and comfort. The Porter Cable is a great machine to learn machine polishing for someone that might be on the fence and doesn't know if they want to invest a significant amount of money into polishing their own vehicles, but there is a reason the other machines cost more than double the PC, and the first time you use one of them you will understand why. I thoroughly enjoy using my Cyclo (which I went into great detail about in a post yesterday) because the dual 4" pad setup is incredibly smooth yet you can get into tighter areas with it; but I find myself wanting to buy a Rupes 15 too because it has a nice quality feel to it, and it is just as enjoyable to use With the Flex, it is a hybrid machine that also has forced rotation as well as random orbits, so it can be more work to control smoothly and it does have some serious strength and correcting power because of that. I had one of my friends that regularly polishes cars now with his Porter Cable try out my Flex, and he immediately said "wow, this thing is more difficult to use" and handed it back to me (we were working together on a Ferrari 550 Maranello) to which I explained it just requires a little different technique and practice with the machine to become comfortable with it. The Rupes Mini is an awesome little machine for spot corrections, which is why I picked up one of those as well, but it's not really something I would polish an entire car with. I find that I don't even grab my cordless drill with the adapter backing plate and 4" pad much anymore, because the Rupes Mini will take care of most jobs no problem. Finally, the Rupes LHR 21ES Bigfoot is an excellent machine just as the Rupes LHR 15ES is, just with a larger 21mm throw to the pad face. For large trucks, suv's, and cars with big flat body panels, this machine is perfect with the 7" pads, but with something with a lot of complex curves it can be a little more difficult to use. For example, this past summer at Corvettes at Carlisle, I was working on a beautiful new black C7 Stingray Z51 package, and the big curves and valleys in the hood made it a little more of a challenge to get the big 7" pad to flow with those curves properly. I hope that helps with your decision and didn't add any confusion David, but please let us know if you have any other questions