Dan@Adams

Straight from the man! Thanks Dylan

This is true for machines like the Porter Cable 7424XP, Cyclo, Rupes LHR 15ES, Rupes LHR 21ES, and Flex 3401 VRG that we offer, setting them at speed setting 1 or 2, but not for the Rupes Mini - it's just too powerful and awesome of a little machine to use for sealant and glaze application! The Mini is designed for paint correction in hard to reach areas. The lowest OPM setting on the Mini is much higher than the Bigfoot 15 and 21 - the lowest speed setting on the LHR 15ES and LHR 21ES is 2,000 OPM compared to the lowest speed setting of 4,000 OPM on the Mini. If the Mini is your only polisher, it would be better to seal and glaze those tight areas by hand using a Black Microfiber Applicator or a Red Hex Grip Applicator.

I'm pretty sure we have another order of white Side Kicks on the way later in January!

Great suggestion, but I just wanted to clarify that we no longer carry the 3 piece set of Wheel Woolies in case he is looking for it on the website

True, it seems like I'm always cleaning 18"-20" wheels, so I do go through more DWC than I would on smaller 15"-17" wheels

For a multi-spoke wheel like that, as long as it is clearcoated, I would recommend our Deep Wheel Cleaner to remove the brake dust and yellowish residue from all of the corners. Spray it onto the cool, dry wheel surface and let it sit for 2-3 minutes. You will see it change to a purple color as it breaks down the metallic dirt particles. I would then agitate it with our Short Wheel Brush or our Trim & Lug Nut Brush and then thoroughly rinse them off with a hose to remove the dirt and any traces of the Deep Wheel Cleaner. Since it is a fairly strong cleaner, you do not want to let it sit and dry onto the wheel surface. Once you have the majority of the wheel clean, future washes should be a little easier. In other words, you may not need to use our Deep Wheel Cleaner at every wash and you can instead use our Car Shampoo for light wheel cleaning. I do go through Deep Wheel Cleaner fairly quickly though - I will typically use half of a 16oz bottle to clean 4 wheels.

Hey Phil! Welcome back *wipes drool off of keyboard from staring at your new rides*

Hey! Thanks for signing up for our forum There are tons of great people on here that can help answer any questions you may have about detailing and maintaining your truck!

Chris and Michael both got it right! The only thing I will add is to make sure that Deep Wheel Cleaner does not dry on the wheels - you only need to let it sit for 2-3 minutes or so before it starts changing color to purple. You can then agitate with the short wheel brush or a TurboStick or Wheel Woolie on the inner barrel, and then make sure to fully rinse the wheel of all traces of DWC, especially around cracks, lug nuts, center caps, etc.

We offer a 1 year warranty on all MetroVac products that we offer, but we've had very few issues with them! For reference, here is a thread about power tool warranty updates that Adam made a little over a year ago: http://www.adamsforums.com/topic/27247-power-tool-warranty-update/

Yep, if you haven't driven it since washing, and no one drove by and flung giant mud puddles on the car, you should be fine with giving it a Waterless Wash wipe-down. While we do recommend our waffle weave Waterless Wash towels, the towels you mentioned should be fine as well. If you see them starting to pick up dirt, be sure to fold to a new clean side before wiping it on the car again to minimize chance of creating any swirl marks. Just keep in mind that our products can be a little more difficult to use in near freezing temperatures.

I run Bosch Icons on all of my vehicles. I get about 2 years out of a pair. I try to wait until the local auto parts store has them buy one get one free.

Awesome man! That looks almost just like my old ride, except the black wheels...I sure do miss her sometimes

It was great talking with you Michael, thank you for the kind words, they really are appreciated and I will pass this along to Ben as well!

I'll bring this question up in our meeting next week and hopefully have an answer for you soon

My guess would be prolonged exposure to sunlight as well. If I leave a 16oz bottle of DWC out in the sunlight all afternoon when I'm detailing, it can discolor like that. The product should still work fine, but if you find that it's not performing correctly, give us a call and we will help you out!

From all of us at the Adam's Team, Merry Christmas everyone! Enjoy the time with family and friends

I would be a little more careful using #0000 steel wool on interior glass, and obviously do not use it on any aftermarket tinted windows.

Adam's Green Wheel Cleaner has been discontinued for over a year now. Our All Purpose Cleaner is a pretty strong degreaser, so you always have to use caution when using it on painted surfaces, especially non-clearcoated surfaces and raw aluminum (I would suggest to NOT use it on raw aluminum at all). Those Mazda wheels are most likely clearcoated from the factory, but at 11 years old now, that clear may have already started to degrade, since you did say the wheels have been fairly neglected and are dull. The only time I have ever used APC on wheels is on wheels that are plastidipped - it worked great for me at cleaning the rubber paint without damaging or melting the plastidip. Full strength APC does work good at scrubbing the sidewalls of tires, but I make to have minimal dripping onto wheels. For moderate to very dirty wheels, we recommend our Deep Wheel Cleaner; however, just like All Purpose Cleaner, you do not want to let it dry on the wheel. It should only take 2 or 3 minutes to start changing to a purple color and interacting with the brake dust particles (for most brake pad compounds...some wheels it may not change color), then you can agitate it with a wheel brush and thoroughly rinse off. It is safe on painted, chrome, powdercoated, and clearcoated wheels, but again, you do not want to use it on a bare billet aluminum wheel. The wheels must also be cool to the touch, and it will work best spraying onto a dry wheel - in other words, don't spray the wheel down with water first. If the wheels are just a little bit dirty, our Car Shampoo will work fine at getting them clean.

Eric's order of operations is correct, just wait about an hour or so after applying the Liquid Paint Sealant if you would want to put a coat of Buttery Wax on top of it

Great talking with you today Ron. It's always a pleasure to talk to new customers, especially when they're very respectful such as yourself. Please let us know how everything works out for you once you receive your order!

If the clay isn't doing the trick for you, you could try Revive Hand Polish to smooth out those areas more if you have any of it available. Were you planning on polishing by hand or with a machine before applying a wax or sealant?

Wow that is wicked cool. It would be a little tough to use in my garage but I think it could work everywhere except right in the middle where I have a load-bearing pole...drives me crazy always bumping into the pole or getting a polisher cord caught on it If they could shrink that chair down a little bit more I think it would be even better for those of us with smaller garages.

Hi Ron, thank you for signing up! If you're still changing your cart around for that first purchase, we would be happy to help you out if you have any questions - ask away here or give us a call at 866.965.0400, thanks!

Hey Matt, when I'm using our Adam's Glass Cleaner, I will use maybe 2 sprays per side window, a little bit goes a long way. I will then take one of our microfiber Glass Towels folded into fourths and wipe the window with one side of the towel, then I will flip the towel over and wipe it again for a perfect streak free finish almost every time. Have you tried using a clay bar on the exterior glass first to remove any possible film, tree sap, or other contaminants that might be built up and causing the streaking? Edit: If I'm still having problems after that, I will reapply some Glass Sealant, or even a quick coat of Brilliant Glaze, for exterior glass. With all of our chemicals, we recommend that you keep them in a temperature controlled environment for best results. Prolonged exposure to very cold and very hot weather can affect the chemical makeup of some of the products...but this winter has been unusually warm so far in Pittsburgh, which I'm not complaining about one bit!