Fit08

I start with a fully primed MF or foam pad (all fibers with product on them, check out Kevin Brown method), the first section does get dusty somewhat as you work the primed pad.  After working the first section, fluff the fibers up, and add 2-3 pea sized dots of product "working product" for each section pass, fluffing the fibers as you go with a brush or compressed air)

 

You use more up front with this method but its much easier.

How do we find this Kevin Brown method?

Ralph, what speed is your flex set at? I increased my flex speed to 6 and the "grabbing" stopped, just a thought.

Speed 5 for both polishes (of two polish system) I only have "grabby" on the finishing polish. I did by accident have the flex on 6 with the correction polish and my pad was "steaming" when I stopped. Pressing to hard and speed I felt. Turned down and lighten up and gone.

 

This was the time it clicked for me, after I got done doing my mustang that was VERY bad when I got it. I have done many before on some crazy cars and I am always proud of my work, but this one I stepped by and went holy crap and I got a lot of business when I posted it up on FB when I had it and random people walking down my street saying wow that looks great.

Yes, that sure is a bute!! Love the "chrome" like look of the black!

Which machine are you using Ralph?  The key is to keep brushing out the fibers after knocking out a panel.  Love to see how much polish you typically put on a pad as well, and how many panels you might accomplish with that quantity?  Photos, videos, anything!

 

Thanks,

Hello Adam,

Flex ix the machine I use. I use two lines, Light squeeze and draw a line. Your lines appear to be "heavier"

So, say your panel takes four sections to complete the panel I would "load" the pads four times and brush out four times. No detail spray at all during this or anytime at this point.

Where in the Adam's videos is there an IPA wipe-down??? 

 

True that and this point has been raised from the collective. So, would revive suit this need to get polish oils off paint for sealant application OR is this a none issues to begin with?

Adding an ounce of rinseless to your wash bucket will help to reduce the chance of introducing new swirl marks and will even soften the water a bit to help prevent water spots as well. I've done it a couple of times and it worked well for me.

 

I'm not sure what you're asking about in regards to the spraying. I know some people will spray down the car with waterless wash or the diluted rinseless wash first in order to help get rid of the dirt or to make it easier to clean during the actual two bucket wash. Again, this is something I do quite regularly and fond very helpful. Hope that helps

Yes, the "normal" wash not the "waterless" wash routine is what I was meaning with the spray.

Everyone needs at least 96 sets of pads, at least, if not a few dozen more!

 

Ha!  I wish....still, but I've never used more than one set  on a vehicle.  Use as little polish as possible, and use Detail Spray often to activate the dried solids in the pad.  Brush out the pads after each panel over a 33 gallon trash can. 

 

I have never used more than one set for a vehicle! 

 

Key is, once done, I always use All Purpose Cleaner to thoroughly rinse the pads out.  Allow to dry for a day or so. Once the polish is out of the pad, they are good to go for at least a whole vehicle.

 

Now, I'm the guy selling the pads, and would love to sell many sets to each customer, however, If cleaned well between uses, you should be good to go without them loading up.

So, if I understand you Adam, we would brush out pad (to fluff fiber) then hit with detail and run again only adding polish if the pad looks as if it is not laying down polish when spreading?

See what I'm seeing is the fibers are "matting" down right away thus creating huge drag and grabby especially on the finish polish pads.

I remember some thread where someone was doing a rinse less spray (1:16) ratio to the two bucket wash routine Adams shampoo that is and possibly adding an oz to that bucket as well.

Does make sense, sounds good I think to help fight wash swirls??

You may have a lot of product on your paint and it may take a couple passes of IPA.......I always clay first and that will remove some product.

Hmm the only product is oils from polishes as this is after correction before sealant application.

What revive can it be used or is there oil res after it?

So, in other thread(s) I've been discussing the new microfiber pads loading up with polish as you use.

In search for a good answer I noticed in the videos the Adams grew really load these puppy's up with polish, so my two "light" lines are not an issue as far as I can tell.

So, I can't help but think for a heavy hammered mid size to full size car they must be using 2-3 sets of microfiber pads because at the load rates they show I would not make half way around car before loading up bad. Yes, they are brushed every time it comes off the paint.

How many pads are we using folks?

DO... need a clear coat thickness gauge so you know how much you can sand and cant sand. Every part of a car is different in thickness and without it you will destroy paint. If you think you can do it without it and try to guess it will not work. Trust me I tried it.

 

DO.... 2000 Grit & 3000 Grit sand paper by hand to start with. 3000 Grit is probably the finest that can be removed with a DA and patients. 

 

The smaller the area the better because it means the less correction with a DA you will have to do.

 

Be patient.

 

Those are my $0.02 but I'm not a pro so I'm more than sure there will be better advice.

Just wondering do you own a thickness gauge and if so not cheap I bet?

Researched the Pam technique, may have to try it. Gonna put a good coat of maybe paint sealant on first, followed by a spray down of quick sealant and see how it works. Also read fluid film works good, which I use a lot on other things around the house

Fluid film can't say I've heard of this? A USA only product maybe??

Do you think that there could have been any residue left in your MF towel? Other words was your MF clean?

Try using a clean Single Soft.

Towel was new out of the package. I forgot that most use the double soft, but I was locked into the waffle for liquid.

I may be a bit ocd here, but has anyone used quick sealant on a zero turn mower?  Got a brand new gravely this weekend and want to keep it in pristine condition, thinking about quick sealant on the deck to keep it nice and clean, using it under the deck would hopefully help grass not to accumulate and stick, and make it easier to scrape off.  Hell, will probably end up detailing the entire machine with adams lol

I've had great success with no name pam for underside. Rest of machine, your an Adams family guy, get er done......

SO, once again I was faced with "cloudy, streaky" IPA wipe down so I stopped and just did a waterless wash wipe down and sealed.

70%, 50\50 mix and  distilled water. Blue waffle weave used.

Any thoughts?

What I do is start out w/a x on the first panel.  Then detail spray next panel/half panel w/out any additional product.  After that I add 3-4 dots for the next panel.   Then repeat w/the spray, 3-4 dot routine.  Never had any issues.  

Hi, this is with microfiber you are doing this NOY foam pads? Interesting........ I would have thought your level of correction would suffer.

Taping takes time just not nearly as much time as cleaning off the extra polish that gets into crevices. You can work for weeks getting all of the extra polishes cleaned up as it seems to pop up where you just cleaned yesterday.  

 

So tape or be sorry you didn't.  

 

For some of the body crevices between panels I have cut the tape into narrower widths so I can fit it over the fender cracks and not have to move it during polishing.  I know others use the full width of the tape and adjust it depending shich side of the crack they are polishing.  Both work. 

Question is what kind of tape? I have yet been able to get tape to stick even with the APC trick! AND this is 3m body shop tape!!

Well, pretty much done, just need to correct front clip and clean windows and trim in spots and call it a day which I will do Sunday as it has been a 13 hour day today no stop. I'm going to soak in the tub I'm just a aching!!!

No photos, not able to get the blasted camera to work! It was a tough enough day.

I think you are using too much product and not using up whats in your pad before re-loading.

What do you think Ralph?

I'm thinking we are on the right track. This would explain other issues such as "grabby" because pad fiber would flatten soon after starting.

We are to add product each time we start a new section, correct? I was adding only two lines and not real heavy.

What do you think about adding only say one line of polish once you have pad well primed??

I can't seem to get my wash pads completely clean using the method described in the Adam's website.  Could I just toss them in the wash with my microfiber towels?

It can take a couple of goes of APC and warm water, also I found best to due the day of use.

What I'm seeing is my fiber pads are loading up "very wet" even with brushing after each section pass 2*2 area.

I use two lines each time I start again, fluff fiber each time as well.

Can I just add detail spray to get product out OR do you need to add product every time?

I have switched to a new set of pads and the "grabby" is gone for the finish pad and the finish polish seems to wipe off better. I do however fear that this will "load" before I'm done as well.

Coming along nice, tried for photos but shots no good at this time does not show well need to figure out camera.

I have the hand-held dual bulb version.

Yes, Brinkman Dual LED Pivot spotlight for me. You can get a xeon (sp) light which is fixed.

I feel if you are having a hard time removing the polishes that you're working the polish too long.

 

Think of wax. The longer wax dries on a panel the harder it is to remove. Same with Polish. If you work it too long, it will start to dry (thats where "dusting" comes from) and it will make it harder to remove.

Hi Kingsford,

 I've not seen a lot of dusting until recent and I'm also seeing "steam" coming off the orange pad so I do have some heat into panel and pads. To much do you think? But this polish is fine to remove only the finishing gets "grabby". I notice machine (flex) got bumped to 6 so dialed back to 5 "steaming" much less if any. I also lighten up on pressure.

I understood the new finish had a longer work time so I am working longer, both polishes really. Results are fine no marring or holograms that I can see.

I have cards I give out to! And my car will be getting polished this weekend. Everyone wants interiors done, yes I do them but I freaking hate it lol I work full time as head detailer at GM I do enough interior cleans already

Oh..... and you want to do this as a side job as well.... I don't think I could do that. Kind of like they say a mechanics car is the worst running car because they do it all day and don't like working on them at home. 

Great that you still have the passion eh!! Nothing more satisfining when it shines with no swirls !!!