Fit08

 

Driving around in a clean truck doesn't hurt either.....

Once you do a few the word will be out.......and no worries your PC is safe.

Good luck!

 Chris said it!!  Your own vehicle will speak to people (those that share an interest in a clean looked after one). I would think you local plays a role as well.

One thing I've learned so far is you will be giving the car back looking better then when you stated, while maybe not "95% perfect" in your eyes the customer should and most likely be goggle over it as most don't understand/care what you went through to get to this point.

They just want a shine like yours. Education this is the PR part of our endeavors.

Ok, today is a new day and moving along on the concord.

I've been finding the finishing polish to be much "grabber" with microfiber then orange microfiber and polish, I also find the finishing polish to be "tacky" to wipe off. My first thoughts were I'm not working it long but at this point I've done 4-5 section passes and the heat build up is get warm for sure both on panel and pad. I also lighten up pressure after two section passes.

The results are were they should be.

Thoughts?

Thanks

How about some photos Ralph?  Thanks!

Hmmm, the big fish himself, I guess Ill have to try real hard on the photos.

By the way Adam I must say I really liked the jeep polish video as it's the first one ever showing the flashing of polish real well. Thanks!!

Ok guys, hood is complete all swirls gone a few scratches in the upper middle of hood. My back leaning into hood for section passes just would not allow pressure on flex and anymore to try and get out.

The brinkman is a funny beast to use, you need a certain angle to see scratches for sure, swirls are fairly easy with it. Sometimes it is too bright I think.

I hope to complete the rest tomorrow. It will be a huge day with lots of Advil I think.

I'm pleased with the shine that came back to the hood. Once again in the garage under halogen and the brinkman it looks fine I hope this time in the sun my dreams don't get crushed!

 

Ralph, If you have the new Polishes & MF pads thats what I would use......it will save you time and you will achieve better results.

Hello Chris,

 Responding well to Micro, but needs two orange goes and one white to be happy perfect no, happy I think so.

Question, can you just go over top polishes like the old system OR do you need to wipe each step as I now know what it takes.

Still doing the clay..... man it a big car!

I have a Chrysler Concord with a lot of swirls and some abrasions do I jump in with green pad SSHR OR microfiber and new system. My gut tells me SSHR as I've not yet gotten a lot of microfiber time and not sure how good it would do. Trying to save alittle test time.

Thanks

A inexpensive work light on a stand will work fine.  I have one like this - http://www.lowes.com/pd_458094-49296-FU2402-2_0__?productId=50056887&Ntt=work+light&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3Dwork%2Blight&facetInfo= with 2 lights.  And get some extra bulbs!  Some folks are switching from halogen to LED lights, but I have not used one yet, so I cannot speak to how well they work for viewing imperfections.  

 

Here is an example of how to use them.  This is a 50/50 shot of a corrected panel.  The section in the middle was taped, then the sides polishes (I think I was testing 2 polish/pad combinations).  I removed the tape and took the picture.  You can see the clarity of the paint on the left side, the swirls in the middle, and some slight marring remaining on the right.

 

 

this is the "after" shot

While I do use the same lighting with white it becomes very tough hence the Brinkman, however it too is real bright and I've not yet play with the brinkman to find a good angle. I have however for the sides of the white car found that a floor halogen and a "look" down the side almost pararel works much better thus far.

Great thread I think! Why, because I too felt the same way. While I'm still learning I do however feel confident I can improve any surface, the question is for me, "how close to perfect can I get it". Now, while I'm not looking for 100% on any correction, if the true be know I would like to have better results. Flashing and work time for polishes seem to be an issues but with white this can be tough!

I find nothing more deflating then doing a correction in garage and putting out in the sun and you ask yourself, "what have I been doing for the last 12 hours"  because defects are still present, less yes, gone no.

Yes, with the more we do we get better, but I think I underestimated the patients and determination needed to get closer to 100% if this makes senses?

Just wanted to say I tried the peanut butter and it is no myth. I can't believe how well it worked. I put a little on my finger and gently massaged it onto the the spots with the white stain, then wiped it off and it's GREATLY reduced! It's still there very lightly, but it's about 80% gone. One more peanut butter treatment and it'll probably be gone! Very cool little trick!

 

The all purpose cleaner did work also, just took a bit more scrubbing. I used the all purpose cleaner after the peanut butter to make sure all the peanut butter was removed. Peanut butter and all purpose cleaner seems like a killer combo to remove wax residue/stains on plastic trim! Lol

Now there is a toxic sandwich if I ever heard of one......

Swirls are no match for Adam's products.......

While this may true the Brinkman shows me I need much more practice/patience or maybe some voodoo spirit action to get our DD to a much better level of correction. In the garage you think, man this looks perfect only to find out now with the Brinkman you missed the mark.

Kind of depressing really.

Just bought my Brinkman, wish I never got it!! I have swirls ........ giggle sort off.

It sure is the master echo crusher!

Hey Everyone,

 

My names John, I'm the Co-Owner & Head Detailer at Detail Kings. We're located in Stoney Creek, Ontario Canada. 40 minutes to Toronto and 40 minutes to Niagara.

 

My business partner & I have been renovating a 3800Square Foot Shop since September 2013. Finally on the home stretch 3-4 weeks from the official grand opening! Turning an old skate park then machine shop into a detailing facility has been the journey.

 

Did a lot of research, years of using different products and six Plus months scouring the internet. Narrowed an estimated 75 different products to two main competitors. In the end, the choice was obvious ... Adam's. I then immediately wanted to take it a step further and start the purchasing with a bang. Became an official dealer & distributor for southern Ontario & surrounding area.

 

Not only are we going to have a precision detailing facility, with an Eco friendly twist of using the optima steamer, along side with Adams should be a great journey! Using and selling a product you stand by, just gives you that edge and shows loyalty when earned.

 

We will have a full retail area in store by summer, with everything sold on the adams website available in small or large quantity

 

To see pictures and updates of the journey check us out on Instagram! @thedetailkings. I Look forward to learning a lot from the forums!

 

Thanks, John

What is your website address?

You can't use Adam's 4" pads.  I have the 4" backing plate for my flex.  But it only accepts 4" pads that are 4" minimum on the backing portion.  Adam's pads are around 3.75" and thus won't fit.  (they have the plastic ring around it so you can't get a secure bonding for the hook and loop backing to the plate)

Ok this is more the question I was wanting to ask from above quote. Can you use the flex dual action with smaller backing plates such as a 3.75 and who evers pads fit OR should this size only be used on a Porter cable OR flex rotoary??

Anyone using the flex dual action with 4" pads?

Well, if you clay, you're going to remove some of (very little, but still) the already previously applied protection.  So just a 2-bucket is gonna have to do.  I guess you COULD follow that with a WW before applying the wax, but that's your call.  Why not just top it off with Americana during the initial detail??

 

If you're saying you'd like to add ANOTHER coat of wax, 30-60 days down the road, then stick with your initial idea.  Again, any further paint cleansing or polishing is simply gonna remove what you already have applied.

 

.

Yes, initial detail would be ideal, but had to drive car before all waxing could be completed. I just know the paint will not be as clean as it was during the initial detail so was wondering what he collective was doing. If the quick sealant is as good as they say then I should be golden till next spring with one coat.

If you haven't washed your dd in a month, yes you better do a two bucket wash........

LOL, sure it gets a weekly wash and two bucket at that with grit guards spoiled for sure.(giggle)

What are our thoughts?

Putting a second coat of wax/sealant on after say a month or so what process are we using to make sure paint is clean for this application. Yes, we can wash but it seems like even with the most OCD wash there can be contaminates left over in my experience. Do we do a WW then?? I may be being to picky on a DD but with that said after many, many hours of polishing the last thing we want is more swirls right away!

Well today I polished out my wife's red Chevy before winter and man I must say it was hammered in spots!

Knowing I would need a real aggressive go I started with SSR. I found during this step that a lot of the deeper scratches seemed to jump out at me, cool. I then went to the focus pad SSR to remove scratch and then back to 7" pads. Now, I did not step back out with orange, white pads as I knew I was going to do the 7"pad tour of panel. Not sure if this is recommend , but I seen no ill effects in end result.

SO, after many hours I found using the flex on this DD I was able to bring a shine back to "head turning looks", but it is far from perfect as lots of "deeper" scratches are now seen ONLY with the best of light and to us with high OCD. As a DD good enough applies!!

I'm finding each time I do a full correction I get better at it, but it is not fun work especially if you want a excellent outcome. There were some scratches on the trunk that I had to do many passes of ore then one machine, drill and such but it came out excellent! Adam is right you can get some good scratches out, just takes time and effort.

yep.  It's the LSP removal guarantee, especially if its machine applied.  

AL righty then, I guess if one gets to the re wax you might as well do the clay routine!

I've noticed no matter how careful you are washing there seems to be film of dirt here and there you missed but you pick up with the GW, hence my revive question before a re wax.

So you have used a wax or sealant and your down the road in its live and you want to freshen up the wax, can you use revive to clean the paint without it stripping the sealant or wax?

Welcome to the world of white, but look on the bright side it does hide swirls better then dark colors! I find seeing the polish flashing is the toughest part. For me it was just a matter of really paying attention to the differences in how you work and remembering the processes that work out. It does take time.

Wow!! This is just amazing, man we all could learn something from this fellow!!

Thanks for posting link!!

Ok, how much and where in Canada can you get these?

You are thinking about the next day wipe down. MSS has a tendency to outgas additional residue over 12 hours or so after being first applied, which needs to be wiped before layering anything else (wax or sealant) on top of it, otherwise you may see some cloudiness between the 2 layers.

 

Also keep in mind Revive Polish will remove any wax or sealant you have on your paint, so if you are doing a treatment with Revive, do it before the sealant.

Revive, I was wondering if it would strip the wax/sealant good to know.

SO, if we were going to layer a wax/sealant (second coat) I take a wash would be enough to have the paint clean enough for another coat of wax/sealant correct.