GerryC

I have found repeatedly that adding too much WW solution to either the foam gun or the wash bucket will dramatically mute the level of suds that are generated. You can't give exact ounce measurements because there are buckets and foam guns with different capacities and not everybody fills theirs up completely. It's all trial and error until you find the amount that works for you.

Prime is free for the first 6 months and then $40 a year for anyone with a valid .edu email address

Where in CT are you located?

Sealants need to bond to bare paint (or another coat of sealant) in order to maximize their durability. Remember, your top layer is at the mercy of the layer below it, so if you put a 6+ month sealant on top of a 4 week wax, that top coat of sealant will only last 4 weeks. Also, adding too many layers or layering too many different products can eventually cloud up the finish which is of course opposite of what we try to achieve by using these products.

You do not want to do the entire car before wiping off the residue unless you are exactly sure what process it will take to achieve the results you desire on that particular car. This is what Michael is talking about with the 2x2 section: do the entire process to that one 2x2 section until you are satisfied with the results - now you will know exactly what you need to do to the rest of the car and will save yourself a LOT of time, effort, and product. Once you know what you have to do, you work one panel at a time and go around the car (or if the panel is large like the hood, you can do half at a time). This is so you do not get ahead of yourself, and it makes it much easier to keep track of what you've already done and when you have left to do. If you are going to split your detail up over more than one day, just remember where you left off and pick up from there. I did my G8 over the course of 4 days and did 3 panels a day.

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On hard plastic surfaces that won't absorb product, I prefer TID, but LC will work just as well. You may have to go over it with a clean towel afterwards to get a level appearance but otherwise the results will be the same: great!

Normally I won't even touch the car until spring. If it gets really bad with sand/salt accumulation, I'll break out the power washer and knock off the heavy stuff. You can saturate the surface with WW beforehand to help loosen up some of the junk. And of course the key to easy and safe winter cleaning is getting a decent base of sealant down before winter starts.

I found the snow to be a welcome challenge when it came to races. A friend of mine used the content creator to make a race around the dog track behind the casino; super cars on top of snow on top of dirt was loads of fun. I haven't been playing in public matches, I'll start a closed friend session and my Xbox friends will join in whenever they want. Funny that you mentioned the Sentinel XS and the 4-door Felon because they are actually two of my six garage cars. The Felon is my all-blacked-out sleeper luxury sedan, and the XS is my track car:

It's snowing in Los Santos

One more time before this gets out of hand: If your personal account is suspended or banned, you would still see the Adam's colors, links, the logo, etc...why? Because the forum itself is still online. But if the entire page looks like a generic page that says ACCOUNT SUSPENDED and nothing else, then it's obviously an issue with the forum itself and not you individually.

Prepare for an eargasm:

Typically websites are hosted on shared servers, so if another site on the server is being hit abnormally hard, the rest of the sites on the server will suffer. Again, I don't know the setup that AdamsForums is run on, but that is a common occurrence.

This has nothing to do with anyone's individual forum account. Likely an issue with the webhost, possibly a spike in bandwidth due to heavy traffic, but I do not have access to that information so I am only making an assumption.. It only happened to the forum because the forum and the storefront are on different domain names.

I do the whole cleaning process to each wheel before moving onto the next, just so I'm not constantly picking up and moving all my supplies back and forth. The Undercarriage Spray is a dressing for the wheel wells which you would apply after everything has been washed and dried.

I'm kinda the same way. If I want/need something during the year, I'll buy it, or at least I'll plan to buy it within a month or so. I hate the idea of putting something off until winter and then asking other people to buy it for me.

You have the proper order. Re-washing after clay is not required, but if you pulled up a lot of contamination it you might want to just give it another quick wash, and then dry it before polishing.

Out of business? I had a feeling that this forum was actually a hologram.

Adam's Waterless and Rinseless Washes have been found to lower the surface static on the car which will result in attracting less dust. If you are worried about dust/salt/sand I wouldn't even bother with BW and just stick with a couple of coats of LPS, which will offer plenty of protection and gloss.

I'll be dumping quite a bit of time into online now that school is done for a while. Perfect way to kill time while everything outside is covered by half an inch of ice.

Using a steady stream of water, blast the pad from the center outward in all directions. For me this removes 90-95% of dirt particles from my wash pads. There will likely be a few stragglers left over that you can pick/comb out by hand. This topic has some more information: http://www.adamsforums.com/topic/9936-how-to-properly-clean-your-adams-wash-pads/

What about BEHR paint?

Then you could very well just be working with "dirt rings". Wash it tomorrow and see if they're still there. You've got plenty of protection on the paint so my guess would be you shouldn't have too much of an issue. Let us know how it goes