GerryC

I think the name "QS" serves its purpose just fine. People mostly use it on wheels...any surface that is relatively small and can be covered...quickly. If you rename it to something specific like "Quick Wheel Sealant", there will be questions as to whether or not it can be used elsewhere, which we already know it can. So, in my opinion, the name is fine, but the product itself could be more marketed towards protecting things that you wouldn't use a traditional wax on, i.e. wheels, mufflers, plastic, etc. Perhaps a subject for another dedicated video? Gather input from members on the forum on what surfaces besides the paint they have used QS, and use the video to really showcase the product's versatility.

For cleaning around them, do you have a boar's hair detail brush? They are great for getting into the little crevices around emblems, and they are perfectly safe for your paint. Just dip it in your soap bucket and gently go over the area around the emblem. For waxing, I'd suggest Quick Sealant, since the aerosol formula will cover all the tiny areas that you won't be able to get at with a hand applicator.

If you give it a shake and everything is one uniform color, you should be good to go. Like others said, out of direct sunlight, do what you can to protect it from extreme temps.

Waffle weave towels are best for absorbing liquids that you have used to saturate a surface (water, WW, GC, DS during claying). These are used primarily before the polishing process begins. Plush towels are for removing polish/wax/sealant residue, or for wiping off lightly misted liquids (DS after waxing), basically any time after detailing where you need that soft touch to keep from scratching up your hard work.

Like with everything else, products are used on an as-needed basis. Take claying, for example - not something you do every wash, only when the paint feels rough. Same goes for using strong cleaners. If your wheels aren't that dirty, go with shampoo and water. If you have really heavy contamination, go with GWC or DWC. If you are not sure, start with the least aggressive and work your way up until you see the results you want. Personally I only use DWC once a year, after winter.

I believe I have done my entire G8 with less than one 16 oz bottle, but it depends on the vehicle size and the amount/type of dirt that you are trying to remove. I only had very light environmental film from sitting outside overnight after a pre-show detail. A 32oz bottle should be plenty, unless you plan on doing multiple cars in one session, then opt for a larger one.

Since the contact area of the Cyclo is elongated rather than circular, you can rotate the machine to fit into smaller places that a 7" pad couldn't properly work in. The example Adam used in the polishing videos is polishing the A pillar. It isn't necessarily a two in one machine, but it eliminates the need for switching pads and backing plates, like you would with the PC, to get the areas that the 7" pad couldn't.

It's a shame that these quality tools are turning to Chinese manufacturing. At the same time I applaud Adam for maintaining the no-china policy. It is difficult to keep to your standards when you cannot control what your suppliers do. The Cyclo may not have the same power as the Flex, but it is a very versatile and robust tool with less of a learning curve, which is perfect for people who are just getting into detailing at this level. I used a Cyclo for the first time this past August, and like many I was skeptical going in. It is the easiest machine to control, and you can get into much smaller areas when necessary without having to switch pad sizes. And as far as I know, yes, the large pads which fit the Flex and PC will still be offered.

yet, on the topic of forum presence, Anyway, we have plenty of capable people who are stepping up. I have nothing but confidence that this team can maintain the same level of quality going forward. Adam's has been consistent throughout the years despite numerous staff changes, something many other companies can't boast. It has only been a couple of weeks since Dylan left, so why don't we give this transition a chance to work before dramatizing the situation.

Jim, you are speaking as though the forum is the only way Adam's promotes, and that the lack of figureheads online is not going to move product. Most people who sign up to the forum have already purchased their products and are looking for advice and support. A significant portion of sales and conversions, I imagine, come from events. Myself, and most of the "unproven, pompous" moderators you speak of (as well as some regular members, like BRZN, for example) have worked at numerous Adam's events over the years, answering questions and giving demonstrations for up to 10 hours a day. The people I have had the pleasure of working with have been very humble, professional, and knowledgable - exactly what you'd expect from the actual employees. We may not currently have a Dylan on the forum pulling in members, but it is people like the mods and others who work at the shows who are pulling in customers and moving product.

I have also worked hands-on with many of the staff members at shows and can confirm that they are, without a doubt, some of the most knowledgeable and dedicated people you can find. They may not be on the forum as much due to their other roles in the company, but these are the people who help everything run behind the scenes and also at public events. To the staff I have not met, I am 100% sure they are cut from the same stock; Adam is a professional, and he didn't grow his business by hiring a bunch of clowns. Losing faith just because a key employee decided to pursue other avenues is losing faith in Adam, and I can tell you there is NO reason to do that. That being said, some of the comments in here are disappointing and childish. The quality of the products and service is not going to change because Dylan left, and everyone's collective knowledge is not going to plummet. We have all learned at least one thing from Dylan's input over the past few years, so now we use that information to help the next wave of newcomers. "@Adams" in their name or not, if someone sees that the majority agree with a particular post, they will feel more confident with the advice. It's not rocket science.

Holding onto the glass towels take a bit of practice. One method I found that works well is folding it into fours and then making sort of a "half fist", pinching the center of the towel between the side of my thumb and index finger. The towels shouldn't be grabbing the glass IMO. If they are, the glass either hasn't been clayed or is too dirty to use these towels. Glass towels are more for finishing the glass and making it streak/smudge/spot-free after it has been cleaned, not for removing actual dirt. For the latter I prefer to use a waffle weave towel, and then finish with a glass towel.

That's because there are no ads..

Did you try a different browser, a different device, or a different connection (work/home)? There are multiple factors which could contribute to this, many of which are either out of our control, or actually have nothing to do at all with the forum.

Welcome, whereabouts in CT are you? Once the weather warms/dries up I could give you some help in-person http://www.adamsforums.com/topic/18149-willing-to-help-in-ct/

Sealants should be applied to bare paint; you always want your longest-lasting protection to be between the paint and everything else. Do what Frank suggested to strip the old wax off before applying a sealant. You can then apply a wax over the sealant if you want

Pros: cleaner look, easier to polish without them there, no unsightly hard-to-clean dirt accumulating inside the letters. Cons: Not as easy to reverse the process if you change your mind.

Surround your tomato plants with hot pepper plants and they will go away

Monthly strip washing is overkill and, depending on what you use to strip wash, could be bad for your car. Regardless, you would be creating more work for yourself having to re-seal every time. Let the sealant do its job, it lasts for a lot longer than one month. Regular washes + monthly BW will maintain your protection and shine. Strip washing is normally for when you need to start with bare paint for a full detail (clay, polish, seal).

Very nice. QS is amazing stuff. 2 coats of QS have been on my G8 since October, and it has been the ultimate barrier from the winter elements. The few rains we had removed 90% of the visible dirt. Car has not been washed since application. This pic is from a few weeks ago. This season I will be using Adam's LPS on the paint and saving my QS for wheels/exhaust.

I use an older Adam's drying towel to protect painted areas around where I am doing work on a car. Just make sure the surface is clean before you put anything over it, otherwise you will have created sandpaper.

I have never heard of this place. Also, I don't believe they are legally allowed to use the Adam's logo as part of their own. Considering the site is incomplete and hasn't been updated ("this fall" was last fall...) I'd wager this isn't anywhere near off the ground. Besides, we have an Adam's dealer in Cheshire, which is half an hour from Hartford, where you can get your car detailed. Our building may not be as fancy as their 3D rendering but at least it exists.

Yes, besides the exhaust and the brakes, everything that needed repair was either refurbished, or replaced with OEM http://www.adamsforums.com/topic/23706-25-years-old

It's pretty insignificant drone if any. Then again, the windows are always down when I drive the vette, so between the exhaust and the wind buffeting inside the cabin, who knows lol. Sounds good from the outside, that's all I really care about. I should take newer videos since these are quite old and lower quality.

I have done this plenty of times but only on vehicles that I know have been clayed recently (ideally within the past six months, depending on storage/use conditions). If you have a vehicle that has never been clayed, or hasn't been clayed in over a year and lives outside, you would be better off using Adam's DS - or some other dedicated clay lube of your choice if you prefer - to get the best results, in the least amount of time, safely, from your clay session.