GerryC

Many people use diluted IPA to wipe down panels after polishing to prep for sealant. Others use WW, and some don't use anything. Personal preference. I like to use WW because it helps reduce static charge on the surface so dust doesn't cling when you're laying down your protection.

I think he ordered some of the die cut decals and put them on the bottles himself

QS is on my wheels, exhaust tips, and under-hood paint.

To them you're detailing their cars, but in reality you're just practicing on something that isn't yours

There's a good chance you need to finish with the white foam pad, as the microfiber might be a bit too aggressive for your clearcoat and is leaving behind those micro scratches that you are still seeing. You do not need to start over from the beginning, just pick an area that has swirls and do a pass with the white foam and PFP and see if they go away.

My G8 is a daily driver; I did a full correction last year and then applied two coats of sealant. With proper washing (and snow removal ) techniques, I would say that the paint still looks about 95% as good as it did last year. My wash frequency is about the same as yours. It all boils down to how you touch the paint. Obviously, the less you touch it, the better it is. But when you have to touch it, how you touch it is also important. When you are washing and drying, you don't need to apply any pressure whatsoever. Let the weight of the pad or towel do the work. Pressing down will just grind the dirt in and start causing swirls to re-appear.

It is of course possible to get a daily driver 100% swirl-free, but unrealistic to maintain it as 100% swirl free since it will be driven and washed often. However, you should be using more than one wash pad in order to minimize the amount of dirt that gets put back onto the car. At least two, one for the top half down the the midpoint of the doors, one for the lower half where the majority of the dirt is. They're cheap enough that I use three. Do you have a coat of sealant on your paint?

If you are applying SVRT to hard plastics, you need very little product to do so. Sometimes, you can even dress hard plastics with just the residual product still in the applicator. Hard plastics won't absorb SVRT the same way soft rubber (weatherstrip, tires, etc) does. And like others have said, make sure the surface is clean before dressing.

This was an issue with the first batch of DS 2.0 (when they still had to use the "new formula" sticker you have there) and I believe it has since been resolved. It is purely a cosmetic change and should not affect the performance of the product. Of course, if you find it doesn't work as it should, feel free to call up and have it replaced

You are forgetting to clay, which is the most important step if you are going to be performing paint correction. There is a bunch of stuff stuck to your clearcoat that traditional washing will not remove - brake dust particles, environmental contaminants, etc. Clay after washing. You can leave the rinse water on the surface of the vehicle to save time. Other than that, your steps are right, and like Eric said you don't need to wash the vehicle again after polishing, a wipedown with WW will suffice. You can seal and glaze any shiny surface. Glaze on chrome will melt your face

I believe it's based on ETA of the product being back in stock, but it still seems a bit buggy to me. They're trying to square away new storefront software that will eliminate a lot of this confusion.

Every plastic surface is different, and as such it's hard to get a single product that works well on everything. I have had no luck with TID on the smooth plastic that surrounds my G8's center stack (streaks like Matt said, and took too much effort to level out), but it works great on the smooth plastic that covers the entire dash of the vette. TID works great on the textured plastic in my G8, but the textured "dash pad" in the vette needs LC in order to look detailed. Once you figure out what works where, it becomes second nature.

Any claying or polishing will remove the trace amount of wax in the RW, so it won't affect anything.

What was the very last polishing pad you used before you started sealing? Was it the white foam or the white microfiber? Softer clearcoats don't finish well with the more aggressive microfiber pads and will require the foam finishing pad to get it perfect. If you can get a picture of the swirls in the sun that would help. If you haven't finished waxing yet, don't continue. If you have to re-polish an area it will remove the wax.

You do not need to clay when you are going to re-apply wax. Sealants last for 4-6 months depending on storage/driving conditions of your car. When you go to apply more wax a month or so later, claying would be unnecessary and it would also remove the sealant. Since the longer-lasting product (sealant) is going on first, there is no "weak link" in your layers.

I use 90% IPA diluted 50/50. It doesn't need to be strong. Just try to avoid hitting plastic trim with the alcohol.

I'd dilute it least 50%. Some paint finishes are more sensitive to IPA and can temporarily "swell"

Revive can be used on new or old cars, it doesn't matter. If your car is dark-colored, you'll likely see some increased clarity by using Revive after polishing and before sealing/waxing. Isopropyl wipedowns will prep the surface for sealant/wax by removing any residual oil left behind from polishing. If you use Revive, you can still follow that with an Isopropyl wipedown. You won't be causing unexpected damage using these products.

The Canadian Adam's site is really just an authorized dealer, based in Canada. They likely got their stock of Patriot from HQ a while ago and just now sold the last one they had.

If you're using a pressure washer, set it to 'wide fan' and you will be fine.

Issues with suppliers forced Adam's to discontinue a lot of accessories. The hex grips, for instance, had an ETA of 16 weeks, which is clearly unacceptable from any point of view, so they were dropped in favor of the "UFO" applicators for now. The new PCP has the correcting power of the SSR, and it finishes like the SHR, eliminating the need for two products and two pads to accomplish one task.

LPS on white is the ticket.

QS is the way to go on wheel faces; the aerosol nature of the product gives you much more complete and even coverage on even the most intricate of spoke patterns. The rear half of my barrels are rough, bare metal. I just used Metal polish to keep that part clean.

Walmart carries a ton of different sizes. I have a few of these, and they were six dollars each.

Sterilite containers. Made in the USA.