GerryC

+1 for in between body panels, particularly around the headlights. I've used most of mine for getting into tight spaces under the hood as well.

Last time I used peanut butter to remove wax stains, this little guy just sorta hung there...watching...waiting.

I have found Revive to strip Americana pretty effortlessly. Since you also have LPS down, you may have to hit it twice, but it shouldn't be too much trouble. Just wipe it on by hand as if you were applying it as a wax. PCP / PFP will also remove whatever's still left. When you finish, I would reapply LPS, since you obviously originally used it for a reason, and the new stuff can be topped pretty soon after application compared to MSS.

2008ish, after finishing up the interior and mechanical restorations on the vette, I had to learn the paint. I knew Corvette clear was tough as nails compared to other vehicles, and I spent a considerable amount of time in this one spot until I figured out what I had to do to the rest of the car, on and off, over the course of the following weeks.

^ When you are forced to work outdoors, one panel at a time is the best way to go for claying and polishing. Clay a panel and wipe off the residue with a waffle weave towel, then polish the panel with Revive and wipe off the residue completely with a plush towel, then apply your sealant. This way, the only unprotected paint at any given time will be the paint you are currently working on. You won't get ahead of yourself and nothing will dry on the surface. Another bonus to this method is you can take breaks between completing panels, since the sections of the car will either be completely done, or not even started on yet.

Try using a hair brush to brush the dirt out of your wash pads. Do not wash them with your microfiber towels. I've ruined wash pads by picking up a lot of particulate as you've mentioned. Pre-soaking the really dirty areas on your car can help loosen the crap to the point where it may come off with the initial rinse. It may also help to get a less expensive wash media, such as a microfiber mitt, for when you have to hit these areas. High quality ones can be had for around $6, and are easier to clean out than wool or synthetic pads.

Hawk ceramic here. I barely even have to use GWC anymore. Shampoo and water in a bottle with a foaming sprayer 90% of the time.

You should be able to see the sealant going on. I like to fold a microfiber applicator in half and use the "spine" of my fold to apply the sealant. First time, I'll spray 3-5 times down the spine, then after that 1-2 for each new window. Once it hazes, lightly mist some Glass Cleaner and wipe the haze off with a glass towel. The only thing I do not like about the Glass Sealant is the game of scavenger hunt you have to play after wiping off the residue. You really need to look at multiple angles, in the light, to ensure the residue is completely gone, otherwise you will see faint streaks in the same direction of application/removal.

If you feel the panels are going to be too hot, you can fill an empty spray bottle with distilled water and put it in the fridge before you start washing. Then when you are ready to apply your wax, use the cold water to cool the panel down. Spray, wipe dry with a separate towel, then apply your wax as normal.

I had a similar issue with the buds falling off my neighbor's maple tree last month. Normally they fall off gradually over the course of a week or so. This year, however, it decided to monsoon and pretty much all of them fell off in one night. To make matters worse, it was cold enough that night for the rain to freeze, so I had maple buds frozen to my car. This is the aftermath:

Chances are you have applied too much SVRT, and the residue that you are seeing after washing/rain is the excess that ran down. Try SVRT again, but afterwards go over it lightly with a clean towel to knock off any excess dressing. You don't want any SVRT sitting on top, you only want what was absorbed into the stripe. Glaze is not a wax, it's more of a 'beauty product' that enhances the look of your paint/glass/chrome for a few days. It doesn't have longevity and it offers no protection. People use glaze on matte stripes with good results, despite it sounding counter-intuitive.

Yep, I like to re-foam after washing but before rinsing, sometimes even after switching to a different wash pad, if it's really hot outside or if I'm in the sun, just to keep the suds from drying prematurely.

About 15 minutes for just the paint during a maintenance wash.

I don't normally gush over a product, but LPS removal is beyond effortless. You don't need a machine to take this residue off, and the slickness you feel under the towel will send shivers down your spine. (merged with main LPS discussion topic)

I try to fold them the same way I would as if I were going to use them, but ultimately it is however they manage to all fit in my containers. I also keep the DS, polish/wax removal, glass, and drying towels in a different container than the rest because those are the towels that never come into any contact with dirt. Topics like these are good, it lets everyone know that they aren't the only crazy ones here

This is one of the main reasons why I prefer to wash my towels by hand. By not using the washer and dryer, you avoid any and all possibility of cross-contamination with other fabrics or chemicals. Then again, I like to wash my towels within a day of using them. I know others will wait until they have enough dirty towels to do one large load, which is where using a washing machine has its benefits. Personally I would still hang my towels to dry regardless of how I washed them. I have yet to use vinegar when I rinse but I may give it a try and see how it works. Right now I tend to just rinse the towels twice to make sure all the cleaner is out. Like with everything else, it's all about personal preference. Use the input from everyone on the forum as a guide, but do what works best for you.

I don't know what happened there either, but I will agree that it is much safer to let the chemicals do their work before taking anything else to the paint. That goes for any detailing step, and is the basis of logic behind using foam guns, pre-treating panels, etc. before wiping something across the surface. The less you touch the paint and the less dirty the paint is when you do touch it, the less chance you have of introducing damage. Detailing 101.

After blowing off the excess, you can even pre-treat your panels with a WW product as you work around the car for added lubricity. It'll help loosen up the pollen that's still stuck, making it safer to remove.

In light of a trend I've seen emerging lately, I would just like to remind everyone of why we are all here and what kind of atmosphere we are trying to maintain. We are all on this forum to collaborate our ideas and collectively grow each other's knowledge of the hobby we all share. However, we need to do it in a way that is positive and constructive. Personal attacks, insults, shaming, and any other type of comments that detract from the family-oriented nature of the community are NOT for this forum. Is that to say we can't have some healthy comparative discussion? Of course not. Realize that no two people on this forum will have the same exact approach to every detailing scenario. We all use different tools, different processes, and different products - Adam's or otherwise - to achieve our desired results. For some, it is tried and tested so they stick with it, while others may want to experiment with something unique. There's really no right or wrong answer to anything - unless of course you want to clay with Carpet Cleaner or run your polisher with just the backing plate on it. Productively providing and taking suggestions generates a "bigger picture" for the various approaches one can take to a specific detailing situation, and what one person does or uses is not the be-all end-all in that category. Embrace this mesh of information, because ignorance is not bliss, it's just ignorant. As a community we need to respect the different levels of knowledge, experience, and ability that our member base is comprised of, and recognize that everyone here can still learn something from someone else.

You know if you were that impatient to see pics you could have just shown up Only had about 40 total cars this year. The threat of rain for the past week surely kept some people home, but it didn't rain a drop and it was sunny for most of the day. http://youtu.be/g-xlxMR_kgQ

Show will be held as scheduled. Hope you guys can make it.

With the product being used as diluted as it is, I don't think the deposit left behind is really anything substantial. And it definitely does not have fillers in it.

Depends on your leather. Every car is different. Leather in the G8 drinks the stuff up like crazy so i put it on thick and let it soak in. Leather in the vette, however, barely absorbs any, so I started using TID instead. Also I think Jason got the sample from another member so he could try it out before buying the whole bottle.

Yes. Many people including myself have used WW and/or diluted RW for a clay lube or a drying agent.

Well, since Rinseless can be diluted into Waterless, I'd say yes. Having both products for sale is redundant. Although, in terms of application, if I have a car that is in the garage that hasn't been outside since I last cleaned it, and it has nothing but some dust, I would use WW to saturate and wipe away. Light dust on an otherwise spotlessly clean car is no reason to break out buckets and fill them with water. However, if the car had been driven, then I'd more than likely use RW. Sometimes I like to pre-treat my panels with WW before Rinseless Washing, just for added lubricity.