GerryC

Here is a writeup I made for another first-time machine polisher which can help save you a ton of time: http://www.adamsforums.com/topic/26079-first-detail/?p=412095

Yes. However, many people will wipe the polish residue off as they go, since the polish doesn't need to cure like glazes and waxes do. No harm in leaving it on though and then wiping all the polish residue off at once if it's easier for you to do it that way. Just make sure all the polish residue is gone before putting on any sealant, glaze, or wax.

Polish needs to be removed completely before applying any sealants, glazes, or waxes. These products leave a layer behind on the surface, whereas polishes do not. Polishes are "worked" to remove imperfections and/or clean/clarify the clearcoat. If you simply spread a polish without working it, you aren't using it to its full potential. If you're using BW you can treat the whole car and then remove the residue. The only wax you need to systematically apply/remove a few panels at a time is Americana because of how quick it hardens.

Whereabouts in CT are you? We have an Adam's dealer in Cheshire, and weather permitting there is a car show there this Sunday. Feel free to stop by and get your questions answered in person

Just an update, there is a 40% chance of rain in Cheshire on Sunday, and the forecast is constantly changing. As of right now, the show is still on. We were not able to arrange a rain date, so we are making every attempt to hold the show as scheduled.

If you click on the little gear icon next to the search bar, you can set different search parameters to help narrow down what you're looking for. I immediately found a topic you made last year about matte paint on a motorcycle. Is that what you were looking for?

We should definitely create a dilution ratio chart for the products that can be mixed with water, as well as listing the purposes for which you'd need each diluted product.

You can tie the ends of your polisher cord and extension cord together so you can pull on the cord without worrying about it coming unplugged.

If you're experiencing streaks with SVRT, you probably either used too much or the surface wasn't completely cleaned before you applied it. A little goes a long way with this stuff, and you can go over the area with a clean towel to knock off any excess dressing next time you apply.

May 2010

We accidentally left Rich alone with the big red button

Are those the stock GXP mufflers? If you take them off, send one to me - I need something to deep fry a turkey in.

You'll need to strip to remove your protection. You can add a few ounces of APC to you soap bucket and wash the car, or you can wipe the car down with diluted IPA and a clean waffle weave towel. When you start polishing again, only do one small area. Do not do the entire car until you are satisfied with that one area. Pull the car out into the sun and inspect it to be 100% sure. Areas that look like your first pic I would start with orange foam then do white foam. Areas that look like your bottom pic can probably be done using only white foam.

Take pictures of all four wheels. Get the names of the people there who mounted the tires, the lady at the front desk, anybody who you talked to. Share the shops name/address/phone. Call the better business bureau, or the police if necessary. I had a dealership wreck my front bumper 4 years ago when I took my G8 in for warranty work and they tried to cover it up. I made sure that dealer got as much negative PR as possible, and now they send me Christmas cards with gift certificates in them.

Are they chrome chrome, or do they have clearcoat on them? If they're clearcoated, you'd treat them like paint. If not, use metal polish if they need it, and I'd follow with QS instead. Are they already in good shape and you are just trying to maintain and protect them? If they're already in good shape, all you'd need to do is wash them (cool to the touch, soap and water), then seal/glaze. Wax won't be able to withstand the high temperatures generated by driving and will break down pretty quick. Save wax for your paint. Glaze won't last long either, but that's the nature of the product. Throw glaze on your chrome before going out and it will melt faces.

They're off of a V6 G8. Quick, cell phone potato-quality pic: Polishing your headlights and tail lights will make a huge difference. Like Chris, when I first got my car, the tail lights were swirled - worse than the paint. But they corrected very quickly and easily with the PC and 4" pads. Now they look like rubies.

The damage could have already been on the car and was being hidden by filler wax, like Chris said. Or you could have simply not seen them the first time. It is also likely that the damage you're seeing was introduced during claying, or even washing. Couple of different possibilities, but regardless you will need a correcting polish to remove swirl marks. Revive is a paint cleaning polish and is not designed for removing those types of imperfections. Can you take a photo of the scratches?

Strip washing involves simply adding APC to your foam gun and/or wash bucket to remove the old wax/sealant. I figured you were already past that stage, but the advice is there for next time or for anyone else who needs it. I actually strip washed my G8 yesterday, clayed the whole car, and put on a temporary coat of BW until I have time next week to polish and seal for the season. That's another alternative approach. Now I can proceed with the method I described in my earlier post of doing one panel at a time, and can start with polish since everything's already been clayed. You go long enough without a garage and you start to figure out your own tricks to dealing with the outdoors

Yes, Americana is the only product that needs to be wiped off within a few minutes of application.

My recommendation for this situation would be to wash the entire vehicle, and then do the entire clay/polish/seal steps to one panel at a time. This is how I corrected my G8 last year. I clayed a whole door, two-step polished the door, and then sealed the door before moving on to the next door, etc. Do NOT strip wash the entire car to start. You don't want to expose the entire surface of the car all at once - only as you begin each panel. This way the only unprotected paint at any given time will be the paint you are currently working on. Another bonus to this method is you can take breaks between completing panels. It is obviously going to take more time to do your car this way (I did 3 panels a day over the course of 4 days) especially with the frequent product/pad switching, but it is the most feasible I have come up with for correcting a car outdoors.

When the Revitalizer was first sold it came in the standard clear 16oz bottle. People soon found out that this plastic did not play well with the chemical and the bottles cracked - mine did too. That's why the Revitalizer is now sold in the 36oz "frosted" plastic (which the DWC originally came in) because it does not react to the chemical in the same way. This bottle is made of HDPE plastic, vs the PETE plastic of the clear bottles. If you've seen Breaking Bad you'll understand the significance of HDPE If you've transferred some Revitalizer into a clear plastic Adam's bottle, this is likely the cause.

Color transfer is common and normal when working with single stage paint. I've only worked with single stage gloss, though, not matte. I imagine you wouldn't clay or polish that, only wash.

Once you wipe off all the polish residue, you can wipe the car down with WW or diluted IPA, then move on to sealant. Washing again is unnecessary and time consuming.

Unfortunately, yes. That's why we stress the importance of doing a test area and getting one spot perfect so you know what process to take on the rest of the car. Otherwise you'll just end up wasting time and product and not getting the results you're after. Do one area with the white foam and the PFP, then pull the car out into the sun and see if the swirls are gone from that area. Don't do any other part of the car until you are satisfied with that one area, then replicate that technique over the rest of the car.

The blue hex grip is the same foam, I believe, as the yellow and red. If you have an extra pro tire sponge that hasn't been used for VRT, you can use it for applying LPS by hand since the face of the applicator is the same texture as the black sealant machine pad. I use the "all purpose" towels for interiors; short side for cleaning, long side for dusting/wiping.