GerryC

If you're applying to hard plastic it's usually a good idea to take a towel to it afterwards to knock off any excess - this would help prevent running when it gets wet. More porous materials like tires and weatherstrip can better absorb the dressing and wouldn't require this extra step. Should wipe right off the paint though

I believe the sub-version we are now on is the last release of the parent version. According to what I've read from IPB there is no direct upgrade to go from where we are to the next major version (which introduced features such as mentions) - it would require a fresh install.

I wouldn't rinse the application towel; you'll lose a lot of the product that's already in there, which will lead to having to use more. Think about VRT - by the time you're on the last tire you barely need to add more to the sponge. I'd lightly wring it out if it starts dripping. You'll still lose a little bit of product, but not as much as rinsing it.

4 months during the winter, but I use pictures of my G8 covered in 2 feet of snow as leverage at car shows to beat out all the garage queens, so the tradeoff is not bad.

I'll give it a try before my pre-winter treatment.

Wash first, otherwise all the iron particles will be covered by the dirt. I prefer to decon BEFORE claying, so you won't have as much contamination left to pull up.

+1 for Quick Sealant. Ideal for wheels due to many reasons, the top two being application method and high heat resistance.

DWC to decon is pretty much a must-do when it comes to white cars. It was one of the first things I tried when the juice first came out and is now part of my semi-annual regimen. Like you said Kurt, it makes every step afterwards easier, especially clay, since you don't have to worry about all those iron particles clogging up your clay bar

I will be at the tent all day Friday and Saturday, so be sure to introduce yourselves!

On the multiple towel idea: I like to use a waffle weave towel - one that's usually been demoted from use on paint - to remove a majority of the dirt first, and then follow up with a glass towel to tackle streaks and bring out the clarity.

I didn't realize you made a topic, I've replied to your other post about this: http://www.adamsforums.com/topic/27900-quick-seal-just-spray/?p=438531

In my experience LPS lasts about 6 months on an ungaraged daily driver here in New England. I've found QS lasts longer and is able to withstand high temperatures (I believe 300 F was the max?). I use LPS on my paint because of the ease with which you can apply it. I use QS strictly for sealing my wheels, exhaust, under-hood paint, etc because a. they are smaller areas where the aerosol nature is beneficial, b. are subject to intense heat, and c. I only want to bother sealing twice a year. I used QS on my paint the winter before LPS came out and while it worked great (better than LPS in my opinion, in terms of forming a rock hard barrier against the elements) it was very tedious to do an entire car with QS. Either way, sealant should go on bare paint, before wax.

If the zip code in your address book starts with a zero it gets truncated and causes the shipping options to not show up. Happened to me earlier today, just gotta enter it in manually until the problem gets fixed.

That is the pattern of the original WW towels, except the towels Adam's offered were light blue, same as the current towels. The only difference between the two is the size of the waffle pattern.

Fixed. Thanks for pointing this out.

We told you not to use Windex. See what happens?

If you're only looking to do one step and your paint is not in too bad of shape, you can try only using the white pad and finishing polish and see if that gets you the results you are looking for.

Some users might experience an hour discrepancy in post timestamps after last night's daylight saving's time. To correct this, simply go to your User CP and ensure that you have the correct timezone selected and that the box labeled "Automatically detect when my timezone is in DST" is checked.

Matt, I've updated the links in the forum header to point to the correct URLs. Also, the script file that was running the social media rotator next to the Adam's logo seems to be missing. The forum is looking for it at http://banners.adamspolishes.com/abm.aspx?z=1 Shoot me a message if you need that pointed to a different location.

Did you request a new password? I think Matt said that the old passwords were not ported and a reset request is needed to get that taken care of.

^ This. The move will take a few days to propagate throughout the interwebz. Some people will see the new site while others will not. It's temporary and happens when a domain is switched to a different name server. A domain (such as adamspolishes.com) is only a logical pointer to the physical IP address (in this case, 192,190.220.254, as Dan pointed out above) of the server on which the website is stored. Looks like we're just caught in transitional limbo as the domain is still resolving to the old IP address for some people. Since there's nothing at the old IP address anymore, that's why those people seeing placeholder pages.

You need to wash the car BEFORE claying. Claying removes the contaminants that are embedded in your clearcoat which aren't removed with a wash. Wash the car, do the plastic bag test as described above, then you'll know if you need to clay. After clay you can use any type of liquid or paste wax to protect your paint, but normally people will polish their paint after claying to remove any micro scratches that may have been introduced during the clay process. Claying is done on an as-needed basis, it is not something you need to do every wash. I clay my daily driver twice a year. In the spring I'll follow clay with a polish. Your situation might be different. If you're talking about a garage queen, you won't need to clay as aggressively or as often as a car that sits outside 24/7.

Hi Graham, Check out this topic, it has some good info in there about this exact problem: http://www.adamsforums.com/topic/24582-removing-scratches-underneath-door-handle/?p=390475

If you feel it with your fingers, does it feel rough? If so, try claying more aggressively. Use wheel cleaner as your lube. DWC if you have it (wear gloves!). Follow up with a metal polish and maybe some 0000 steel wool.

Not too bad