GerryC

Prime the applicator with a shot of QS, then "fog" the panel and use the applicator to spread it evenly. Wipe off the residue with a microfiber towel after letting the product set for about a minute.

When machine polishing, you always want to do a test area first in order to determine which combination of products and pads will get you the results you are after. This will save you a ton of time and help you "learn" your car's paint finish. Pick an area that's easy to get to like the trunk lid or the hood, and polish a 2'x2' area. Do the entire two step process to this one area. If you removed the imperfections to your satisfaction, then great! Now you know the technique that you need to replicate over the entire car. If not, don't get discouraged. Sometimes the hardness of your clearcoat will require more than one pass. I would start your test area using the foam pads, since they are less aggressive than the microfiber pads. If the foam pads remove your swirls, great. If not, give it another try, but with the microfiber pads instead. This is why we do the test area - it would absolutely suck to do the entire car only to realize it wasn't done the right way. Every car is different, so what may work for me may not work for you and vice versa. If you haven't already, I recommend watching the machine polishing videos a few times to get an idea of how much product to use, how to move the polisher, etc. In regards to the steps, there is no real right or wrong answer, as long as PCP and the orange pads are done first, and PFP and the white pads are done second. It completely depends on your situation. Is this a car that sits in the garage, or is it your daily driver? If your car is going to be spending the next week or so in the garage, then you can do the first step (orange) to the entire car (after "learning" your paint first, of course ) followed by the second step (white). Stop whenever you get tired, or need to clean your pads, and just remember what you've already done and where you left off. If your car is not in a garage or you will be driving it often, such as in my case, I did my correction panel by panel - orange on the entire door, then white on the entire door, then sealant on the entire door, then move onto the next panel. Since I was limited due to time and weather, I wanted to get each panel completely corrected and protected before moving onto the next, so I could have the option to stop after each panel was finished. I did three panels a day over the course of four days. After your polishing is done, the first thing would be sealant. Sealants bond to the paint, compared to wax which just "sits" on top. Sealants last longer than wax, so you want your most durable and longest-lasting form of protectant to go right on top of your hard work. The proper order is sealant -> glaze -> wax. Of course, you can omit any of them if you wish, just as long as they are in that order. Congratulations on your purchases, welcome to the forum, and do not hesitate to ask for clarification on anything I've said. I'm sure others will offer suggestions as well. Bed time

I'm researching the ethics of computing, particularly in regard to software development and the societal impact of new technologies.

Correcting polishes like SHR and PCP are thicker by nature. Does it not mix up when you shake it? Is it hard to squeeze out? If you feel it is too thick to work with, I would use the Revive to dilute it.

If this wasn't a 6+ hour drive and I didn't have a fifty-page thesis to hand in the following Monday, I would be there. Any volunteers to help proofread?

I have two GWDT's and would estimate that I use each of them 12-15 times a year (alternate each wash). In my experience, with proper care and storage they typically last about two years before they start to feel "grabby" and are demoted to door jamb and other duties. I wash them after each use, by hand, warm water and Revitalizer. Sometimes I add a drop of Woolite if they picked up dirt or have DS stains. Never had issues with scratching, and my G8's clear is basically made out of candle wax.

Thanks for sharing. Those are some amazingly beautiful cars there. I go to the Concours in Greenwich, CT every year, always a great time. I could spend days just staring at some of those cars.

Surprised you didn't use them to sponge-paint a hex pattern on the walls in your son's room

The original formula Americana smelled 100x better than the current. I still have some saved simply for aroma purposes If you're ever up this way feel free to come compare

IMO the scent of the LC is nowhere near strong enough to encompass an entire garage for days on end. You might have a bad batch, in which case Adam's will replace the product, or maybe you are just very sensitive to the scent. Anyway, those creases should come out when it gets warmer out. The suggestion I read most often here is to heavily condition the affected area and park the car in the sun with the windows up. That looks like the outer driver's bolster, so it is a common problem. I have to treat mine this coming season as well.

Nobody has suggested otherwise.

We rarely see complaints about the LC scent. Is your bottle of LC new? Since your car is fairly new, perhaps the TID would be a better fit for maintaining your interior:

Adam and most of the team members and mods congratulated Dylan in that topic; however, the discussion went off the rails a bit, and since Dylan's account has now been merged with Nick's, the flow of posts looks all out of whack. I assume Chewy closed it because everyone said their congrats and it was time to move on. We all know Dylan had a huge impact on this company and his absence has undoubtedly left some big shoes to fill. He helped put Adam's in a great direction and we hope to continue the innovation as best we can. There are still capable individuals behind the scenes. Have faith

Clay bar is a must if you just removed badging. It will help remove any leftover adhesive residue, as well as all the stuff that was stuck to the paint around the badge. If you haven't clayed your car ever, you may as well get it all done at once. Polish would come next, and since you don't have a machine, Revive Polish is the way to go. This will clear up all the discoloration you see and prep the area for sealant or wax. RP is very versatile and can be used on plastic as well as the rest of the paint on your car. Great for clearing up yellowed or cloudy head/brake light lenses. Here are some demo videos of clay bar and hand polish technique

BG is a great way to restore that "just detailed" look. Here's to warmer weather up here

Still upper 30s / lower 40s here for at least then next ten days, with some chances of snow thrown in for good measure. -_______-

You could peel the label off the front and trim it down to fit on the side, familiarize yourself with the colors, or write the product name or abbreviation on the handle with a sharpie.

The software currently does not support the rich text editor on mobile devices due to reliability and performance issues. http://community.invisionpower.com/topic/380469-no-editing-controls-when-using-ipad-to-post/

No, it shows up as a square. Emoji's are a font, and like with any font, whoever doesn't have the font installed won't be able to see it when someone else uses it.

Looks like you are missing the entire rich text editor toolbar. According to IPB, they have disabled rich text support for iOS due to unreliable performance on Apple devices, and are working to implement it in a future version. As soon as they do, we will upgrade to that version.

So, what exactly happens? Are you able to pull up the smiley bar under the reply box? Does the reply box have focus (flashing cursor) when you click on a smiley?

The smileys use Javascript, not Flash. Some iOS devices are notorious for not playing well with Javascript. Make sure Javascript is enabled on your devices browser.

Waterless Wash is still available by the bottle and gallon while they last, and at a nice discount if anyone is looking for some.

The TID won't make your car smell like baby powder. The scents are mostly so the product is pleasant to use, especially in close quarters like your interior. I use TID to maintain my interiors throughout the warm months and have never had anyone mention that they smell baby powder or baby wipes. Nothing to worry about with the scent. If you have a new or like-new interior that just needs some general maintenance, go with TID. If you have an older or neglected interior that needs some cleaning and/or rejuvenating, you may want to opt for the LIC and LC combo.

You can wash them in the machine if you want, just make sure there is NO fabric softener or other items in there besides your microfiber towels. Personally I prefer to wash them by hand in a clean bucket, so there is no risk of cross-contamination with other soaps or materials. This topic has some good info, and this topic has some other methods.