GerryC

Depends on what the "spot" actually is. Some spots are physically etched into the clearcoat while others are simply rings of dirt that were the outlines of the water which dried on your car. The former will need to be polished out while the latter can be washed or clayed off. It's difficult to give any direct advice without any photos of what you're dealing with though.

A brand new vehicle that has sat out on the dealer lot and washed improperly every week would definitely need the full treatment. However, since it seems you are taking delivery immediately from production, then you shouldn't have too much to do aside from the basics. Give it a wash and then go from there: do the baggie test to see if anything is stuck to the paint which would need to be clayed off, then inspect the paint for swirls or any other flaws that may exist which you'd want to polish out. When you're happy with the condition, then yes, use QS for the wheels and glaze/Americana for the paint.

Can somebody can explain this? The solution for Waterless is 1oz of Rinseless + 16 oz of water, yet on a dirtier car it is somehow safer to use a solution of 2 oz of Rinseless + 640oz of water? I understand the towel saturation plays a part, but I also know that it is the lubricity that prevents inducing damage, and the Rinseless in the bucket is diluted twenty times more than the spray in the bottle. Logic says the more concentrated solution would be for dirtier surfaces? #overanalyzingisathemehere

Took this earlier today

I usually just use the tip of my index finger wrapped in a utility towel with a small drop of polish, but your scratches there look more severe so that method might not be enough. Here's another topic with some info for you: http://www.adamsforums.com/topic/24582-removing-scratches-underneath-door-handle/?do=findComment&comment=390475

Some people wash after claying, some don't. It's a matter of preference and what the situation calls for so the DS doesn't dry on the finish (it can be a bit stubborn to remove if that happens). What I do is, while the car is still wet from washing/rinsing, clay a panel at a time, keeping a waffle weave towel over my shoulder and I mop up the DS and water when I finish the panel. If you're looking to do your interior and it is already in good shape, then a bottle of TID will put a huge smile on your face.

+1 on clay and towels. Correct order of product use: Clay -> Correcting -> Finishing -> Seal

It's worth playing the story twice, not only because of the enjoyable mission style as I said earlier, but because of the different approaches you can take to heists, as well as other decision points throughout the game. Here's the link to my Snapmatic album, with pics of (among other things) all the modded cars I've got in my garages: http://socialclub.rockstargames.com/member/G-WizZ/games/gtav/snapmatic/

The TID has light cleaning properties so it has the potential to "strip" the conditioner out of your leather. What I like to do is keep the products separate for specific surfaces: thick hide leather (seats, door panels) get treated with conditioner, since it needs to soak in. All other surfaces (steering wheel, dashboard, any hard plastics) are treated with TID. Hope this makes sense.

Single player is definitely worth checking out. The writing, character development, and mission variety/style are legions beyond what has been done in previous installments.

I haven't had that much gas spill but I've gotten drops before, and as long as you clean it up quick you shouldn't have a problem. Make sure there's no residue left behind, polish out any small swirls caused by the paper towels, and re-seal/wax the area. You may also be interested in finding something like this

I always remove as much as I can from the car without actually touching the paint, and usually with my hands (don't want to misjudge the amount of snow while using a stiff broom, or, worse, a shovel). Whatever trivial amount that's left will blow off. Also any of the Metro Blasters heat and filter the air they blow, so that will help with removal/melting in some cases. Having a proper coat of sealant on all paint and glass beforehand is also key. Just follow the same "the less you touch the paint..." methodology as you do during the summer and you'll be fine. Or move

After washing/rinsing, before claying, while the car is still wet. I spray two panels at a time to make sure the cleaner doesn't dry on the surface, wait for it to "bleed out" and then thoroughly hose down the panel. Afterwards if I have any soap left in my foam gun I'll foam the car down again to help eliminate any remaining DWC, then I'll move onto clay. Keep in mind this is not an every-wash thing. I only do this once a year on my G8. What is actually stuck to your paint (DWC only attacks metal particles), how much of it is stuck to your paint, and how quickly it accumulates will dictate if and when you need to use this decon method.

We had a C5 at Corvettes at Carlisle this year that even after 3 aggressive passes with clay, it was still pulling up junk and felt rough. You probably need either a more aggressive clay, or more elbow grease. Are you using the old Adam's clay or the new stuff?

The DWC has always been transparent. It just looks different because it's in a clear bottle, as opposed to when it was first launched it was in the translucent plastic bottles that are now being used for the Microfiber Revitalizer.

Adam's Super VRT Tire & Trim Dressing Gallon Refill

The foil seals are breathable, since Adam's bottles products at a mile above sea level, when the bottles reach your doorstep, the change in pressure normally deformed the bottle. They're also there to provide rock-solid evidence that your bottle has not been tampered with since it left the HQ. I also like the red plugs and I use them in my polish and wax bottles when they are stored unused for lengths of time. The foil seals are more for integrity during shipping. FYI there should be a part number and a manufacturer name stamped on your plugs if you want more

We receive email notifications from reported content, so most instances are handled pretty quickly.

You're trying to use an html file as an image, which is impossible. You need to put the URL to the image itself inside the [ img ] tags: [img=http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z36/stinsane9/92812c72-18ec-40a4-9e19-d25e934d3d7b.jpg]

You certainly can, but you will end up using a lot more product than if you applied it by hand.

All I know is that they do not taste the same.

As long as you are using a pH neutral shampoo like Adam's Car Shampoo, then you don't have to worry about "washing the wax off"

If he doesn't know how much it "should" cost, then he has no reference for it being "too expensive" smh But yes, especially if you are doing this for dollars, the duo pays for itself after a few panels.

While the price may put some people off, realize that you can do multiple vehicles (read 5+ depending on condition) with a single set of two-step polishes. I did My G8 two months ago, granted it was in pretty decent shape to begin with, but the level of product left in my two bottles was still above the top of the label when I was finished.

Nice outcome. Did you happen to take any before pictures?